z-ya

I have retrofitted a Z32 CAS to an L28ET distributor. It takes some machining skills, and a Jim Wolf Z32 CAS sensor gear. I'll post more details on the project when I get a little further along.

I did something similar when I did an RB swap The rear sump pans were still available, but not the pickup tubes. So I took the front sump R25 pickup and modified it by cutting and brazing it. I used a smaller tube inside to hold the two tubes together while I brazed it.

Why not just use the 82-83' L28ET optical distrbutor?

225-50R15 on zero offset 15x8 No rubbing issues.

This is what I did in my race car. You can see we angled the panel up a bit to make it easier to see the gauges. The same could be done for a radio, screen, etc. On my street car project I would like to simplify the stock heater controls using some push-pull knobs connected to cables so that I can make more room for gauges.

Here is what my 71' looked like with Eibach springs:

I have the passenger side, but I know who has the driver side. Let me check. Do you need the inner or outer tail light panels?

I think I have the rear corner. Let me check.

I have some used ones if zentech falls through.

Maybe you should be asking "which sway bar?" Or maybe it is time for new motor mounts?

Really nice work Austin.

Try calibrating the TPS?

Tony, it's me not reading the entire post. I plug the bypass on the engines I have built, and even with the Wolfcreek adjustable pressure setup, I still couldn't get more than 80psi. And this was with the NISMO pump cover and external pickup. You can get one of these adjustment bolts from Wolfcreek and try to turn the pressure down. I've got a good (bad) Rebello story. I won't bash Dave in public as he is making good on it.

Let us know if you can get them through Nissan. The numbers are: 96301-e4100 96302-e4100 I have a office in Tokyo, and my coworker there has been trying to get a set for a decent pricing on Yahoo, but even used ones that are broken are stupid expensive.

I would just get the Felpro gasket kit. They have the best oil pan and cam cover gaskets, and their head gaskets are excellent too. I just ordered two from Advance Autoparts for the engines I am building this winter. I think they were around $60 each. Comes with all the seals too. Really good quality. For cast pistons, I've had good luck with ITM. Clevite bearings. You can get both 85 and 89mm bore Cometic gaskets, but I agree with Tony and Tim, stick with either stock OEM or Felpro head gaskets. FYI, I measured the hole size in the fresh Fepro gaskets I just received, and it's pretty darn close to 89mm. In an ideal world, you would want the head gasket hole size to be exactly the same as the bore. I've run 89mm gaskets on race engines with an 87mm bore without sealing or detonation issues. I use the MLS gaskets on race engines mainly because once the valves are unshrouded, you need a larger gasket hole so that the gasket has a sealing surface in the valve area. The only other reason to use MLS is if you need a gasket thicker than the stock 1.25mm size. Felpros are 1mm. Now that I know that the hole size on the Felpro gaskets are 89mm, I will setup the next NA race engine I build to use Felpro. I use a Felpro on my A12 race engine with 13.5:1 CR without issue.

I agree with NewZed. Check the pressure with a mechanical gauge before doing anything.

I think I have a set that was rebuilt and then only run for three race seasons. Only have had 110 race fuel run through them. Let me know if you are interested.

I have a set of the Street Flares from Z Force. They I believe were made from the same mold as the MSA Street Flares. $300 plus ship.

Nice job on the flares. Nicest small flares I've seen on an S30.

Of course you want the highest quality rings for any application. But we are talking OEM cast style rings here, right? Yes, I have built many motors using Deves, and ITM ring/piston combos. Mainly these motors were used for street and track days. One motor was only used for track days and after about 3 years of events a compression check showed little change, and consistency across all cylinders. This engine was built with new ITM pistons and rings. Piston to wall clearance and hone finish is extremely important. The race engines I've built used a moly top ring. I'm rebuilding one now, and have to order custom rings to fit the Cosworth pistions I'm using. Good idea to just get the sealed power rings. It makes no sense to skimp on engine components, as the machining is what is most expensive.

I wouldn't worry about it, especially for a street engine. The most important part is setting the correct end gap, and applying the proper hone to the cylinders for the selected rings.

I've used Deves rings in the past with good luck: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-Nissan-DEVES-1904-020-HP-PISTON-RINGS-2-4Liter-L24-240Z-L26-260Z-83mm-/380859209872?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58acfa5890&vxp=mtr

I like the look of the 280Z lower valance with the BRE spook spoiler and 240Z bumpers.

Get the AFR in the 12.5 to 13.5 across the RPM range. I would not run more than 34 degrees of advance on that engine. Checking float levels is easy. Also check for any clogged filters. Once you get it running right in the current configuration, then you can decide to change things like cam timing and compression ratio. Change one thing at a time, take a measurement. Repeat.

Yea, no easy way to intercool. IATs we getting close to 300F. The SC was so loud, you couldn't hear the detonation. Melted ring lands.