z-ya

Jon, Are you sure that you are not exceeding the travel that would be possible with the springs installed? Meaning that the spring would bottom out before the wheel would travel that far up into the fender.

Ron, I guess my point is that if the sensor has good thermal isolation from the intake manifold, it will be an accurate reading. You are assuming that heat is conducting from the intake manifold material to the element portion of the sensor. Also, air upstream of the TB has not picked up heat from traveling through the intake manifold. There must be some sort of datasheet for the GM IAT sensor regarding thermal conduction from the sensor element to the sensor's brass case. I agree, in the case of WOT for long periods of time, mounting it upstream of the TB will work just fine. But when you are sitting in traffic, or have just started it back up after sitting hot for a couple minutes, the sensor in the intake will give the most accurate reading. When the engine is idling, and the throttle plate is almost closed, not much air is flowing through the intake, so the air that is in there, tends to "heat soak" (at least that is how I define it). Same when you shut the car off to pick up a six pack. The air in the intake gets much hotter than the air upstream of the TB. This is why mounting it in the intake, along with an air temperature compensation algorithm running in your ECU is important (most all do this). I've got MS datalogs from track sessions I ran with my non intercooled supercharged L28 powered track car that I can post (just need to dig them up). From these logs you can see throttle position and IAT. When the throttle plate closes, the IAT spikes to close to 270 degrees, but then drops significantly once I'm back at WOT (the throttle plate is pretty much binary during a track session: WOT, or idle).

Those are a good choice. I picked up a new set on Ebay recently for under $100. They fit the Palnet rail perfect.

I'd wait until the car is back on it's wheels fully loaded, then you can get the exact backspace you need to maximize track, and keep the tire just inside the flare. You might be able to use your old wheels and some washers to figure it out. If you keep the same 5" backspace (which is just about perfect with coil overs), you 10" wheels should stick out another 2" from where they were before the flares. It might be just about right with the 3" flare, but I would wait and order your wheels when you know for sure. Not to hyjack the thread, but what cage did you end up going with, custom?

They look like they fit pretty good. The finish seems decent too. Do they really seem that fragile? It looks like there is a decent amount of glass in there. I suppose you could add another layer of cloth and resin on the underside to make them stronger. Do they make a 2" front along with the 3" rear?

Hear is another thread that debates the IAT location and heat soak: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117582 Hear are some tidbits from my posts on the subject: I still believe that the closer the sensor is to the intake port on the head, the more accurate the measurement. Anywhere upstream of that will be less accurate IMO. The open element sensor is already thermally isolated from the threaded collar. Not sure if any more isolation would help. I'm also not sure why people having problems with heat soak, but we've been there before. Every install I've done, I put it in the intake manifold, and none of them show any signs of heat soak. Even when using the CLT sensor as an IAT (no thermal isolation).

This would be at least the third one.... Search people!! Nice post Ron...

Jon, Your electric bill must be through the freakin' roof! Nice work!!

How did the weld in Techno Tuning camber plates work out?

If adjustable front and rear control arms are installed, are camber plates really required? I understand that you will have more camber adjustment range with camber plates also, but can't the control arms give you the maximum negative camber you could possibly need? IMO the rear control arms are the most important as you can adjust rear toe as well as camber. For my next project car I'm thinking camber plates and adjustable TC rods in front, and adjustable control arms in the rear. Any feedback welcome.

There are some that have figured out how to use a Z31 MAF with the turbo ECU. I'm pretty sure it is not just plug and play. A fair amount of modifications were required.

I did the EFI installation and tuning of this car. The Dynapack dynometer refers to the flywheel in the pods that attach to the rear hubs. It is wheel HP. I know because my Z makes about the same power on a Dynapack as a Dynojet. The most important investment you can make is in good aftermarket engine management, and a good turbo. For engine management, we used a Wolf 3D with direct ignition. For a turbo we used a T04E compressor with a T3 stage 3 turbine. Makes the same amount of torque as a stock turbo, but flows a lot more producing more HP. He is also has a fairly large intercooler in there, but intercoolers don't do a lot on the dyno, especially when you have the fan pointed at the radiator. Yes, the entire long block is stock (7.4:1 CR). Just a fresh head gasket.

It can be done, but is it worth the effort? Probably not. Just switch over to an 82-83 turbo distributor and be done with it. To do EDIS, you either need to make a thin trigger wheel to mount on the pully between the timing cover and damper. Or, mount it on the outside of the forward most pulley. In this case you will need to have the sensor stick that far out. I'm not sure if the radiator or fan will be in the way at that point. What are your project goals?

I'm going to look seriously at moving the rear part of the floor that slopes up further back in my next project. The problem is that the fender well is in the way of making the mod useful. I may even modify the fender well if there is room to clear the tire. On my street car I shortened a set of Bad Dog seat brackets so that my Celica GTS seats would fit and give me enough head room (I'm 6' 2"). In my track car, I have a Richarson aluminum race seat with the thin padding, and I have enough head room with the stock seat brackets, and sliders.

Any fuel injector service shop will have them. Open the yellow pages.

You basically align the sensor with the missing tooth when the crank is at 60 deg BTC for cylinder #1. Read the MS EDIS manual, its all there.

No, they will not fit the manifold properly. Your best bet is some used DSM style injectors. Find a used set on Ebay, and send them out for cleaning. So that solves you mechanical problem. On to the ECU question. Are you still using a stock ECU? If so, it will run extremely rich if you just drop in bigger injectors. You will either need to tune the stock EFI, or go to an aftermarket progamable system.

I like their rear control arms, but $417 for a damper? I've spent less on a complete L6 overhaul.

As long at the wheel to sensor gap is less than 1mm, your good to go.

I ordered the standard one. I'm just looking for a good stock replacement for my current project. It costs more to have a used one rebuilt by the damper doctor, than it is to buy one of these new. I'll post a full report when I get it.

I just bought one. I'll let everyone know how it looks when I get it.

You need to figure out how to connect the idle air valve with the new TB, since the 240SX doesn't have one. The IAV should have one hose that connects upstream of the TB, the other downstream of the TB. Pick up some heater hose and have at it!

I ran .170 pads on my 460 lift cam, and the cam wipe pattern was in the middle of the lash pad. Thats all that matters. As long as the cam contacts the rocker arm on the pad surface, the cam and rockers will last a long time. check the wipe pattern, it is easy to do. You should always check the wipe pattern at assembly time with any cam or lash pad.

I never seen a Z in that color blue. It looks great! Nice work!

There are a lot of companies that sell complete engine kits. Hear is one I found just searching Google: http://www.rpmrons.com/Nissankits.html But really all you need is rings, bearings, and gaskets if the engine is in running condition now. Chances are, it doesn't need boring. If it does, you will need pistons too.