z-ya

Do you have +12v on one pin of the injector? Do you have resistors in series with the second injector pin and the MS? How do you have the injectors wired (3 in parallel on each injector driver)? Have you tested your MS on a stim?

Does MT show a steady RPM when cranking? Do you have fuel pressure when cranking?

Do you have fuel pressure?

Find out why the gasket blew (warped head, etc.). Since the oil has been contaminated with water, once you get the new head gasket in, drain the oil. What I've done in the past is then our a couple of quarts of clean oil over the cam, rocker arms, and timing chain while the plug is still out. Change the filter, put the plug back in and fill it with oil. Run it checking the oil for water. Remember, the oil will still have some water in it. Let it come up to temp, then change the oil again, and you should be all set.

No, that one ran an L28. This one has the twin turbo Nissan V8:

I know who owns that car now, and it is in the middle of a complete restoration to how it was when Paul Newman drove it. I'll be talking to him the next couple weeks, so I can get more info as to it's current state. He may have some rare photos too.

Ron, I know you have posted about your $90 ignition system, but I can't seem to find any details. What did you use for coils and igniters. They look like GM truck coils, but what igniters?

You mean you are looking at the injector, right? Is the fuel pump on?

Ron, I put them in the top of the plenum, usually close to the brake booster fitting. Most L28 manifolds have an extra large hole in that area. I just drill out the old threads and tap it to 3/8 NPT.

You want a 3/8 NPT bung, not 3/4. I've had good luck mounting it in the intake plenum, but others have mounted it elsewhere 8^)

You absolutely want to use the serpentine belt for the SC. The V-belt will slip at high RPM. Even my 6 groove serpentine pulley slips if it is even slightly loose. Use the ZX damper and have a 6 groove pulley made that bolts on using the 6 threaded holes. Ken Jones had one made for his setup. I'm using a modified JCR pulley that I mounted the EDIS trigger wheel to.

The AFM is a variable resistor, but it is biased (voltage applied) by the ECU. It acts as a voltage divider. The wiper provides a fraction of the input voltage back to the ECU. How much is this device going to cost? What are you horsepower goals? You can do a fair amount of tuning using the AFM and by putting a resistor in series with the ECU coolant sensor. Or, if you horsepower goals are more lofty, get a Megasquirt or other programmable aftermarket ECU.

I just did this on a block. I used a MIG welder to weld a 3/8 bolt to the head bolt. I first ground the tip of the 3/8 bolt into a cone, to maximize surface area for the weld. Then I welded the 3/8 bolt to the busted head bold, using as much weld as I could to make it strong. I let it all cool for 15 minutes or so, then heated the block around the broken bolt with a MAP torch. I put a pipe wrench on the 3/8 bolt, and the whole thing came right out.

Brad, let me read more about it and then we can decide. As Paul indicated, they make a V500 version now. From my experience, the Wolf systems give you easier tuning, and better drivability. Even my old version 3.0 unit still works like a charm.

Pressure does not return back to the tank, fuel does. There is zero pressure in the return line (flow only). The constant flow of fuel through the pump keeps it cool and lubricated. Running an EFI pump without a return, will shorten its life because fuel is not continuously flowing through it.

AEM makes units that plug into the factory S2000 harness. That is what he is using: http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=62 I consider a stand alone system one that can be used in any car, and comes with its own harness. If it is plug and pl;ay with the stock ECU, it is not a stand alone system. Yes, the problems he has is drivability, not max power. BTW, do you consider getting 560WHP from an S2000 hobbyist tuning?

The EFI pumps require a return back to the tank This always keeps cool fuel going through the pump for lubrication. Not sure how long it would last, or if a 4psi regulator could handle the pressure of an EFI pump. Just go buy and electric low pressure pump. The cylindrical type are better if you ask me.

You can't go wrong with either Haltech or Wolf EMS. I've installed a version 3 and 4 Wolf EMS system, and had excellent results. A friend has an AEM unit in his 560WHP turbo S2000 (yes, 560WHP), but he is always messing with it, an has yet to get it drivable. It's either belching black smoke, or running like crap. He hates it, but because it plugs into the stock harness and sensors, he is using it. In the near future he will probably bite the bullet and go stand alone.

A good visual inspection can save hours of debug. Any DIP package that plugs onto a socket should be visually inspected. Pins can get bent underneath the package, and cause intermittent connections. Hold the board on edge up to the light, and you should be able to see them. Also, you should always inspect all solder joints, even if you purchased it assembled. I've found cracked solder joints on pre-assembled units. What causes cracked solder joints? Wrong solder-temperature profile. Each solder formulation requires a certain heat range. If the heat range is wrong, as the solder cools, it can crack. Or if the solder is overheated, it can also crak when it cools. Mechanical flexing also can cause cracks.

Nice! What flares are you using?

Yep, my mistake, the MN47 has a smaller combustion chamber than the N47. With the Felpro Gasket you should be just over 11:1 CR.

Ron, Paul, Maybe you guys can post a "how to" for smoothing a manifold like this. I'm starting to do one, and I'm realizing that it is a lot of work! I'm using a cut off wheel to cut the studs I don't need. Then I'm using my die grinder with a steel cutting bit (kind of like an end mill bit). But it is really hard to get it cutting evenly. It is slow going!

If you use the Lengine program, it reports 9.8:1. A 1mm gasket will get you to 10:1.

If it is STD bore, and you didn't shave a lot off the head, the CR should be around 10:1. What head gasket are you using? You should be in the 200-220 WHP range.

Tony, You have a shiny car? I've seen a number of your cars, but none that were shiny. Now that I work for a large O-Scope company (the startup thing ran out of funding), I have access to a number of scopes. Send me both of your units, and I will first test them out on the club car. At least I can help you "cut the cards" on this one. If the club car runs OK, then it's not your MS, but something in your harness. If you want to send me your harness, I can check that out too on the bench. Think of it as compensation for the time you held Dan Baldwins gas tank off the ground for an hour or so at the convention in NY 8^). PM me if you want me to look at them.