z-ya

Are you sure that you are not having any detonation problems? I'm not a big fan of Felpro, but 15psi is probably pushing your luck with one. When did it blow, coming out of a turn? How much gas was in the tank? You may have leaned out under full boost when exiting a corner (been there, done that). What Courtesy gasket are you talking about? OEM Nissan or NISMO metal? First determine if in fact you were leaning out. If you were, fix the problem. Then run a NISMO metal gasket. It will work fine with an 87mm bore. If you want to drop your CR a bit, run the 2mm one (Felpro is 1mm).

You could get some 24" wheels and just wrap a couple rubber bands around them... Just kidding.... As blueovalz said, the overall outside diameter is all that matters. Pick a tire with an outside diameter of 25-25.5", and you should be OK. Then pick the wheel that gives you the sidewall height your looking for.

One wire should measure 12V. The other depnds on if the engine is running, and what instrument you are using to measure it. If you are using a voltmeter, then it will most likely read a positive voltage. If you have an oscilloscope, you should be able to see the injector being pulsed on an off at some fixed duty cycle. Does it run? If so, you most likely have it wired right.

Zsane, thanks for the photos!

It has to do more with the RPM of the centrifugal supercharger at low engine RPMs. Since the centrifugal supercharger is driven by the crankshaft, it's RPM has a fixed relationship to it. The centrifugal supercharger has to be geared so that at redline, its max RPM is not exceeded. With a turbo, you can hit max turbine RPM at low engine RPMs. The waste gate keeps the turbine from spinning at to high an RPM. This is how max boost is achieved at lower RPMs. If a centrifugal supercharger had some way to freewheel (disconnect itself from the crankshaft) when a preset boost level is achieved, a higher crank to supercharger ratio could be used. In this scenario it would build boost more like a turbo.

Any brand from your local auto parts store will work just fine. Only use it on bearing journals, including the cam bearing journals. Only use cam break in compound on new cam lobes. If the cam is used, coat it with motor oil. I typically fill the engine with oil with the cam cover off, so I can pour it all over the cam and valve-train. Only use motor oil to lube the cylinder walls and pistons. If you haven't done so, make a engine primer with an old disty shaft for attachment to a drill. This way you can see that you have oil everywhere, including the cam. I'm sure someone has posted details on how to make one a bunch of times on this site. Pete

There are a bunch of books on rebuilding an L6. Try searching Amazon, its easy.... http://www.amazon.com/Rebuilt-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/sr=8-1/qid=1170729277/ref=sr_1_1/105-3636651-3391602?ie=UTF8&s=books BTW, Nissan L6 heads do not need to be retorqued after installation. Use a Nissan OEM gasket.

I think you are correct in saying that a centrifugal supercharger is an easier install, especially from an intercooler point of view. I think that centrifugal superchargers are less popular mainly because of how boost builds with engine RPM. A centrifugal supercharger builds boost at a very linear rate, so full boost is no possible until the engine approaches redline. This is where the peak torque is also. A roots type, or turbocharger for that matter build boost at a very low RPM. Peak torque is achieved at a lower RPM, resulting a nice seat of the pants feel. I've tuned a bunch of 350Zs with centrifugal superchargers, and they make big HP numbers, but don't really set you back in the seat until you reach 6000RPM or so.

The boost control feature has been in the extra code for a while. Last time I checked it was still experimental. Has there been some significant code testing been done?

Website?

I wouldn't exceed 3mS dwell unless you have put a scope on the coil output. A dwell of 6.5 seems high.

Good idea on the fuel pressure gauge as you can just run some 1/4" tubing to a mechanical gauge. The electronic gauges are more expensive and require wiring. I made a test tube for my mechanical gauge so I could extend it for viewing when debugging a problem. I would just not latch the hood all the way down. You are basically doing the same thing, but it can always stay there.

You beat me to the test (yes, I've been on the road for the past 10 days...). So it looks like the sensor element is conductively coupled to the brass body of the sensor. This sucks. Couldn't GM figure out a better thermally isolating material to put between the sensor body and the element? I thought this was the idea behind the open air sensor. So yes, if the manifold material temperature can couple into the sensor element, all bets are off. But... why don't I have problems when mounting the sensor in the intake plenum? I have never seen any type of heat soak related issue with the systems I have installed.

Wayne, It looks like you have a nice clean installation there. What engine management are you using?

Yes, I read your post. Besides the LT1 to LS1 swap built into my post, was it accurate?

What is your dwell set to, and what coil are you using? If you suspect the VB921, for $5.95 just replace it. An improper dwell over long periods of time can make one fail. Or, the damage could of been done when you had the output not inverted. The device could now be just starting to fail because of damage that was done earlier. Put a new one in so you know what you are working with.

Spend the $200 on dyno time at a reputable shop. Having a wideband in your MS is useless unless you have a way to put the engine under precise load conditions. I prefer Dynapack or a Mustang dynos as they have the ability to hold the engine at a particular RPM or load. You can do all your tuning in a matter of hours vs. days trying to drive it around and do tuning.

Yes, you have to turn the driveshaft to a position where you can get the wrenches in there. Use box end wrenches. Having a second person in the car to put the tranny in gear when you are trying to loosen the nut can also be helpful. BTW, if you are new to working on cars, why are you diving into an LS1 swap?

You can replace the stock return line with a 3/8" line and use it as the fuel supply line, and use the stock 5/16" supply line as a return. Or replace both with 3/8" line.

Hear is what my engine compartment looked like shortly after completion. Still too many wires IMO.

Back in 2002, we happen to meet the guy that takes car of this collection, along with another 50 or so vintage race cars. We were at a cruise night at a local diner, and he was in his 100% hand built Cobra. Since then they loaned us a couple of the cars for display at the 2003 convention, and ran the car in the photos at the convention track day. The owner showed up wearing a Paul Newman driving suit. As you can see from the other photos, they found the Z31 Tom Cruise raced in the junkyard, and completely restored it. They also have the twin turbo V8 ZX, and the Z31 turbo Newman raced. This is the one one I want to get more photos of. My intent is to get a better camera and document the construction of these cars. There might be some new Bad Dog products in the future that come from all this (hint, hint...).

I recently had a chance to visit a friend that is the care taker for the Bob Sharp collection, and hear are some of the photos of the cage and interior I took. Sorry for some of the fuzzy photos. This 240Z Paul Newman drove to a SCCA C Production championship.

I think for 99% of the applications, the BD rails and sub frame connectors will do the trick. Once welded to the floor pan, they become a box, so for almost all (except for the highest torque) applications, they will greatly increase the stiffness of the stock chassis beyond what would be required. Adding any more metal will just increase weight, unless that level of stiffness is require (that's what she said).

Good one Mario!

Did you read the entire thread?