chrism

S2000 seats. They sit lower than the Eclipse seats that were in it when I got the car. Now my head doesn't rub the ceiling.

You can get the SR20 pinout on many forums, but you need to know if it's S13 or S14. S14 has a notch on the back of the valve cover. S13 is straight. Make sure you know what series motor you have. Also, If you take the time to learn how the car is wired and how the electronics on the engine work, You will be able to wire anything into anything and that my friend is freedom. Trust me, the initial learning curve is worth it.

I'm thinking $15 in parts

Anyone make there own turbo timer? If so, do you have a drawing? I'm going to design one but if it has already been done then let me know. It's going to be ugly and hide under the dash. I'll make it so you can adjust the time the engine runs using a dial. Not going for form just fit and function. Fit under dash and function. Ha Ha !!

Just go directly to the tach signal pin on your ECU and pull the signal from there. If you don't have a wire then solder one in or put a terminal lug on the end and insert it onto the correct pin. If the pin is broken, then open the unit and solder directly to internal side of connector. Look up the pin assignment for your ECU. Don't use Speed sensor. I don't think that is the same signal as tach. Cam angle uses 5 v signal. Never tried that one. Your tach is set to 4 piston from factory and you have to reset to 6 piston. That also means there should be a memory wire so when the car is turned off, the tach stays at the correct setting and maintains calibration. Assumption is that you follow the calibration instructions. If that is not connected, you will always have to reset and recallibrate everytime you turn the car on.

Any Tach that is 12v will use this resistor. The resistor is only to pull a 5v signal up to 12v. It is a connection between the signal input and 12v. Its value is set to 470 ohm as a minimum so that the resistor will not heat up and open. Some guys use 10k. This value was used by others on Skylinedownunder. There is no formula needed to get the exact resistor needed.

Does the fuel pump ever turn off after you turn on the ignition or does it stay running? This is without starting the car.

This is a long shot but does anyone have a coil pack for the RB20DET they could sell? I only need one.

My 75 280z was not a california car and it did not have the cat but the hump was still in the car. I had to move the hump out of the way with a little work and got some S2000 seats to fit. Had to make my own brackets but that was no big deal. Finaly, someone who spells as crapy as I do.

What is your o2 doing? Is it connected properly. If not it will cause idle issues and rich fuel mix.

Hey, If anyone is interested, I'll sell a set of these for 50$ plus shipping. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142102 I used them to move a car the other day.

I put the fuel, boost, and Pyro in the center where the radio would go. Turn signals cut from old tach and put into the small square location next to console light. Overall look of the guages. I did not try to get the stock tach working but you should be able to jumper a 500 ohm to 10k ohm resistor between tach signal and +12v . This is what I did for the autometer tach. And it works just fine.

I missed that one on the spelling test in 2nd grade.

hahahaha, Break it up guys.

Not sure how big you will need breaks for a light weight car like the z. If you can lock up the tires and it doesn't pull to one side then thats good enough for me.

Doesn't the 240SX weigh more than the 280Z ? That is the motor used in the S13 and the S14. I like the KA24 but the valve assembly in the SR20 in my opinion is more robust. Just saying.

Got a set of front stage 4 brakes from Silvermine motors. Installed them in a couple of hours. I used a long 1/4" clear rubber tube to bleed the breaks. Here are some pics Old vs New Made some cuts on the dust cover using a roto zip to get the bigger caliper to fit. Kit installed Now the front locks up with just a moderate amount of pressure on the pedal. I say moderate. Not sure what that is because I've been driving a jeep for the past 20 years and you have to stand on the breaks to stop. I want to upgrade the rear later but for now, it works great!!

You got a good deal. I paid $900 for mine and $300 shipping. Yours looks like it's in better shape. Still, my motor runs great and gets unreal gas mileage. Plus if the motor ever blows up, I'll just through it in the trash can and get another one. At that price it's not worth rebuilding.

I'm thinking of something that would be universal and easy to bolt together. Like bolt on clamps or brackets. I don't want to make them too big and bulky or they will end up costing a mint to ship.

Item number: 360104574789 RB26DET dropping resistor new. Expensive. If money is not a problem then what the heck. If you want to get injectors and the dropping resistor for the RB20DET then check this item out. Item number: 360121644961.

RB20DET is low impedance. The only dropping resistor in an RB20DET is for the fuel pump. I just used a dropping resistor pack from a RB26DETT for the GTR444cc injector upgrade to my RB20DET. Here is a 280zx dropping resistor for 20 bucks on Ebay. Don't know what the resistance value is but I'm guessing it is about the same. Check it out. Item number: 370140153817. You will need to do some custom wiring. Or Item number: 360111597234 This item is a GTR R33 Dropping Resister. Should work. Send JPS questions and they will let you know. I got mine from them and it works fine. Both currently on ebay.

zmanco, You beat me to the punch on this one. I would add that using 1% resistors would be better.

Hey, I started using these things to move my 240sx around. I had to strip the car and needed something to clamp to the frame that would let me push the car in and out of the garage. Works great!! A couple of C-clamps and it was ready to go.

Check to see if you get a short across the relay contacts. The coil could be working but the contacts could be worn out. If you want to check the yellow wire to seed if it is connected to the relay in question, I would take a long wire and connect it to one side of your DVM. Connect that wire to the yellow wire at the solenoid. Connect the other end to one of the leads on your DVM. Then probe the relay lead with the other DVM lead that you suspect is the same wire and see if you get a short. Don't forget to sent DVM to Ohms setting. Should get close to 0 ohms if the wire is the same. Also, If you do add another relay, just wire it to the start wire on the ignition switch like the original. You should be able to wire over the existing solenoid wire with no issues but why not clean up the harness when wire is no longer used.

Guess I'll keep the Carolina string going. I'm in Zebulon.