streeteg

I love the analogies. Just as an FYI I ordered 4 10 gang terminals from delcity- Although I have to say they havent processed my order and I placed it 2 days ago--- Maybe they jsut wont charge me-- who knows. Regardless, I combined that with low draw 220 degree LED lights in the autometers... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html They are the top ones--- 5 way 220 degree. Hopefully will illuminate those bad boys to where the light looks even. Ordered in natty white.

ya those a/f rations are crazy. My baseline dyno was 214whp not getting above 11s

So I dont have a same side entry/exit radiator. I have been having problems with air bubbles and coolant leaks from the lower hose that leaves the block, goes across the engine bay and into the lower portion of the rad. Can you guys post your setups so ican see how those are coming together? I have a long flexhose from one side to the other(how the car came) and im guessing thats just not the way to do it. -Eric

Nice! Thanks--- Cage looks sick now that I just got it back BTW--- new pics will come soon once I get this wiring thing squared away -E

I am actually picking the cage back up this weekend with a freshly welded true harness bar in it. So no worries there-- this was temp just to test out the seats. Where can i get a distro block? -E

I attached a picture of my dash just to show you the layout-- which really isnt important, but the long and short of it is-- I will have in total about 9 Guages that all need their own power both to operate and for the lights. So far general operation has been fine, but with all the other accesories on (heat, radio, fans etc) the guages are like the straw that broke the camels back and the volts drop considerably when they are illuminated for night driving. I am on the stock alternator so i understand that could be it, but I know for sure that the guages are wired improperly. Essentially I have one main line coming off the stalk which has all 7 guages wired to the wire-- like a large fork if you will. Should they be wired in series? Is there a power distro block I should get for this type of thing? The last thing I need is an electircal fire--- Thanks, ERic

Definately a cool project---When I get tired of my Dash and find any type of time I will be undertaking a proiject very similar to this

nobody is getting rid of their setup!?

I have searched for write ups or pics but came up empty. I really want to attempt to replace my oem pads and rotors with new-- but took the wheel off and was stumped. This is my first time ever doing something like this on this car--- I have come primarily from new cars where its just a couple of bolts and a floating rotor---Now I am just confused. Can anyone give me a hand? And yes I am embarassed because its routine maitnence and I ahve done full blown swaps (drum to disc, stock to stoptech etc) on previous cars but they were civics and sti's so it wasnt that difficult at all. I was stumped from the get go--- first on how to remove the caliper-- the hardline from the strut tower to the caliper. Then getting the rotor off without stripping those bolts-- Any help would be appreciated and this weekend I will be attempting it again so if you are in the northeast and are bored definately let me know... -Eric

You are very talented- Ill be the first to admit that its well above my skill level

damn i love this car---

good to know.... I am gonna need a clutch soon once i give the motor a little boost

no worries....still lookin...

That makes a lot more sense then cutting. Thanks guys

I will take pictures this weekend if the setup all works out

So, my clutch is on the brink of being fully disengaged when pressed in--- and it has to do with the fact that the stock clutch pedal regulator (the welded piece of metal to the firewall that stops the clutch pedal from being pressed all the way) is in the way. Before I cut this thing off--- Can a clutch be pushed in too far? Should I trim it down and reweld or can I cut it all the way? TIA -E

good info!

Me too! Im on the east coast though....and you can drive my RBz in exchange

I am in the midst of completely rewiring my Z, so if you have any questions when you are doing it, my entire harness is apart--I can help you. Unfortunately a lot of it relates back to how you want to run some of your wiring (most of my important ♥♥♥♥ is on switches or buttons) but its all the same. I dont know whats wrong with me but I love doing wiring projects like this.

Damn thats a great deal. Bump for you

So I got my mustache bar for my r200 swap--- but it looks like the bushings could use a sprucing up--- aka new bushings....where can these be had?

LOL thats my little girl giggle thank you very much. When it comes to this car stuff, and pretty much life I am def like a kid--- so watching a flame like that come out of this car that 5 years ago I would have never thought I would have owned makes me giggle a little bit. Regardless a new O2 is definately in order. New issue: The car hesitates hard under load. As if the maf is falling off....but its not--- so it seems like it either totally went bad or I got some other issue. Regardless New Maf, coils, step colder plugs and possibly injectors are on their way! -Eric

low boost= stock boost. 7 lbs on the stock turbo. Timing was not logged as it was the stock ECU, but by the look of the graph it is very retarded. My maf and possibly 2 coil packs went bad when i was there and we didnt have means to replace so I couldnt actually make things happen. And if i did it woudl be a waste of time due to the crazy voltage this maf was showing...I can try to get a dyno graph from the guy, but its nothing impressive...

214whp/183wtq i think-- i didnt take the dyno sheet home cause it was embarassing. ha--- retarded timing, no tune, and low boost. But a cool vid... Mods: Crush bent 3" exhaust to hks carbon ti muffler, no cat FMIC Greddy Type S BOV Q45 TB Greddy Intake Manifold NGX BK5 sparks There was an attempy to tune it but the maf sucks, so I will be going back with my Power FC. For some reason it was not reading the voltage properly and we couldnt figure it out. Regardless Im gonna take the time to get a new exhaust, and a step colder plugs, with my R200 for the shorter gearing and hopefully get 100 more HPs with a tune and some BOOOOOOOOSSTTTTT Oh and please note the fireball at the end. I am quite proud of it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnLm6F9B39o

That is looking like the best option so far--- i jut have to make sure i got the right thread pattern on the autometer sensor