Derek

If you use the chassis punch (which would be my recommendation) put the cup on the convex side and the punch on the convex side. Much more civilized than drilling! Derek

Unfortunatly it won't work. See how the damper hub has 2 ears protruding into the hub. This would keep my hub adapter from even going in. Then there's the problem of the depth not being the same. Plus if you look at the distance between the boss where the washer sits and the tabs there isn't any room for an adapter either. You can have your 2 row rebuilt for around $100.00 or buy a new one for $200.00. Derek

Cool oven! It looks like you used the controls and elements from a regular oven. What's the box made from? I need to re-bush my suspention parts and thought I would blast and powder coat them while I was at it. I'm looking at the Eastwood dual voltage gun. Derek

Saw this oven on my vacuum form forum oven Looks to be a pretty nice setup. Derek Oh crap I just necroposted!!! I thought that last post was Feb 2011 not 2010. Still a cool oven though!

Vintage air Derek

I hear ya. It's all in the setup. I love the ones where you get 90 percent there with the setup and then realize "that'll never work". The main reason I'm thinking step key is the strength of the key way is somewhat determined by the fit. When I try to make the connect cut if I'm off a hair it may be problematic. Then again I can make the cut and if it's not right I can open it up and do the step. Derek

My newly acquired diesel crank has a little key way damage from an exploding damper. Since I have machines I have options. At the very least I have to touch up the groove with the tig welder and then mill the groove with a key cutter. I figure since I'm going to the trouble of setting it up in the mill I might as well convert it to a single key. Now the options kick in! 1) Weld damaged slot Pick up the existing slot in the mill and connect the grooves for a single key. 2) Don't weld the slot and oversize the entire key way and the install a step key. I may have to make the key but that's not a problem. Realistically I could mill the slot then fixture the new key with super glue and then mill it in place. This is the way I would like to go unless someone in the know has a better idea or sees a problem with this approach. Thanks Derek

According to Pete in this thread specs Which is what mine measured. Derek

Run away from that car. The only way you won't be revisiting the rust is if you strip the car and have it blasted. I have a rust car and the only reason I stuck with it is I already owned it. Derek

I've bought 2 "good" Dampers from hybrid members. One never showed up and the other one was broken so bad that there was no way it could be used. Make sure your definition of "good" is the same as theirs! So no I don't have a source. Realistically if you buy a used one and pay to have it rebuilt your almost at the price of a new OEM unit. Derek

Sorry you had trouble with the fit. Did you have to grind the back corner of the bracket like I suggested? It may have just been the angle of the dangle when you were installing because I did a test fit on a motor I have here and it bolted up with no problems after I ground the corner. I wonder if there are different timing covers out there? Derek

I slept in the luggage area of my Z at Road Atlanta for 3 nights in the early 80's and took it camping plenty of times. Cooler in the center running longways tent and sleeping bags jammed on the sides and my Alice pack on top of the cooler. Fun times Derek

Yes this has dinged my credibility a bit but hopefully I'll have some product in the future. I started this when I was slow but my pattern business has picked up quite a bit since then. Plus there's that stroker thing. Derek

Did you assemble the motor yourself originally? Maybe it was that way when you got it. Derek

Got done with the test fit. No problems. The speakers fit fine and there is plenty of room between the evaporator and the speaker. You can fit the panel in with the speaker installed. Here' some pictures. Here is the spec sheet on the infinity speakers. There isn't a ton of room for the magnet so I would try and stick with something close. I have a few orders to fulfill and then I'll have them available. Please post here if you think you want a set. 240Zip is already on the list Thanks Derek

That's sad but then again sometimes the fun is in the chase. Also think of the knowledge you've gained that you can apply to the next build. When I was putting my car together I knew it was going to be my daily driver. The base design factor for me was "will my wife ride in it". She does! Good luck on the next project. Derek

I can do any color you want as long as it's black or silver Contact 280znhchris he powder coated one blue that I sold him. I can sell you a raw un-anodized one and you can have it coated yourself. Pic of his cover

It sounds and feels right for the car. Derek

You know there are times when I want to say **** or **** or ***** and maybe even ************************* and I can understand not wanting these in a public forum but can't you open it up for private messages.Yes I know I can fool it with symbols and misspelling but half the time I forget. Like "That BRAPP is a no good ************************* " just doesn't have the same impact! Derek

No problem. I have material in stock to pull a few sets. I'll post more pics and distentions when I do the next test fit. Derek

Thanks for making your money available to me When I get the panels installed in the test car I'll have a better idea on clearances. That's a good idea about the side by side picture. Derek

Just started a new post about a new style pod. Low rise pod Thanks Derek

Ran into a little clearance problem with my panels and people with dealer add on A/C. The evaporator hangs down into the foot well and there was no way the panels were going to fit. Unfortunately my suggestion to replace their A/C with a Vintage Air unit like mine wasn't well received. The only way I could make them fit was to mount the speakers flat and hang the magnet in the door hinge bolt pocket. Acoustically not the best choice but workable nun the less. I believe I've heard back from everyone that bought panels that has dealer air but if you didn't get an email from me then shoot me a PM. Also If you bought a set of panels and haven't installed them and you'd rather have these PM me and we may be able to work something out. I'm testing these on a car at the beginning of the week and I believe they're going to fit fine. I'll be stocking these as a regular item. Thanks Derek

Says the guy from Maine! I have the Vintage Air Gen ll Mini and couldn't be happier. Cools the car off in 90 degree heat no problem. The problem with the add on airs for the Z is they suck through the evaporator and IMO is not efficient. Back in the 80's I worked in the parts department at datsun and we had a ton of old blowers and evaps laying around I tried all kinds of combos but nothing is as good as a modern add on like the Vintage unit. Derek

And now for my shamless plug about cam tower shims. I sell the .080 shims if your interested. PM me for the details. Oh and I feel your pain about the micrometer. I dropped my 0-1" Mitutoyo on the floor about a year ago. I still keep it in the drawer next to the new one to remind me not to be so careless! Derek