Derek

Hi I've had a block off plate on the back burner for a while now and finally decided to make it a reality. It's basically the same as AtlantaZ has described. Took a couple of tries to get the "Z" oriented properly to the bolt holes but I think I have it nailed this time. Here's a sneak peek. I'll be anodizing it black in the morning and then I'll sand through the Z and outer ring. Should look pretty sharp. Derek

Yea but anyone can do that. It takes a real idiot.. I mean genius to make their own intake manifold. The bottom line is every time you open the hood you'll know it was worth it. At lest that's how it is with me. Great fab work. Derek

Put large washers under the nuts, set camber, tack (stitch) weld washers. Finito! Derek

Thanks for the offer but I work digitally so regardless of what I'm working with it would still have to go through these stages. Derek

Well I started going the modeling work on the pillar pod. Actually I've been picking at it for the last few weeks. Here is a shot of the imported 3D scan The first thing I did was position the curves from the original profile along the scan. I then used the guide curves to loft a surface. You can see the surface follows the mesh pretty well. That was the easy part. Next I project lines down to the mesh to use as a reference for creating the guide curves I use to make the surfaces. This section is the top where it follows the windshield weatherstrip around and tucks under the visor mount. This is all kind of wavy because I'm pulling the curves from the areas I formed with the modeling clay. Keep in mind this is just the reference surface I'm creating so that I can design the actual pod section. And you thought this was easy! Derek

Thanks. Well anything will work with enough effort! I really think someone with more knowledge than myself about the ZX would be qualified to answer. I haven't set foot in one since 1979. I may be willing to form 2 pods onto a sheet and sell you that. you could then cut out the shape as you like. It would be a little tricky as the ribs and channels I put in there give it the strength. With just the pod it will be kind of floppy. Derek

Thanks guys. steering collum gauge pod is on the list. I'm just starting to work with the 3D mesh that I got from the scans so I may be good to go with that but I'll let you know. Derek

It's going slowwwwwwww! This is going to be a bit of a tricky piece to form. I'm kind of waiting until I have some more experience with the vacuum former before I proceed. But i've had enough requests that it will happen. Derek

Here is the spec sheet from my speakers Let me know if you need more info. Derek

As a long time owner of a 1911 I can verify that they get heavy in a hurry. If you don't have a properly suspended rig you will be uncomfortable in no time. You really need to analyze your carry requirements. If it's in the glove box then in your belt to the house and then properly stored then it's not a problem. But if your out and about you will stop carrying because of the weight. I ended up with a stainless steel mustang as well because there were times when I needed something small but I was comfortable with the 45 and the mustang just felt right in my hand. But now that I live in a smaller town I no longer carry and I let my permit expire about 10 years ago. Derek

I have stock on these now and have put up a thread in the Venders section. Panels Thanks Derek

Well I wish I had known this before but I'm so far in now I might as well keep working with what I have. Derek

Here are some numbers for you. The car has been plugged in for 4 hours so this is as good as it gets for this ambient. Ambient temperature 70 deg F Water temp according to Megasquirt 162F Oil temp measured with Fluke meter with thermo couple in dipstick hole. 100F Valve cover temp measured with infrared 105F I didn't plug it in last night and when I went to start it at 45 deg F it turned over noticeably slower. It also didn't get to operating temp until I was about a 1/4 mile from the shop which is why I did this mod in the first place Derek

I'm running that same unit on my car. Although I daily drive my car it's mostly short hops so I use it to warm up the car before I drive it. It's on a timer for the morning and then I keep it plugged in when I'm at the shop. It gets everything warm including the oil. The valve cover is hot to the touch. It's also nice for setting the valves as it keeps the engine at operating temps longer. If you want I can get you a temp tomorrow when it's plugged in. Derek

I switched every thing over to relays and use the stock switches to run the relays. Huge difference. Derek

Wow thanks. But I'll tell you it's amazing what good equipment can do for you! Well I didn't know you were putting them in a 260. You were smart to withhold that from me. If the panels are useable with minor mods then great. We'll know what it takes to fit the 260/280 cars. If they just won't work and new panels need to be made and you can supply me with the data I need I'll send you the first set of the panels no charge for your time. Let me know if that works for you. Derek

Well watch out for Snap On as well. When I was a mechanic (yes we were mechanics back then) I purchased many a Snap on tool. I broke a 1/2" too 3/8" impact adapter a couple of months ago and tracked down my local dealer where I was informed that the warranty was limited (never heard that when I was writing those checks) and he wasn't required to replace it. I took it to a friend of mine who owns a garage and he got it replaced by the same dealer. So The Snap on warranty is lifetime as long as your buying tools and after that your on your own!

I'm doing a production run right now as a matter of fact! I'll have them ready the middle of next week. I'll shoot you a PM when they're ready if you'd like. Now for the bad news. I'm bumping the price up to $110.00 for the pair. If you don't want the hood cable bracket then I'll go $100.00. But if you have a hood cable then you will want the bracket. Thanks Derek

My first computer was an Atari 1024. The 1024 stood for the memory as in 1024K! No hard drive. started it up with one floppy then put in what ever floppy had the program on you were going to use. I even had a CAD program for it. Memories....... Derek

I'm not too sure. One thing to look for is are there 2 ears on the inside. some of the early dampers have them. If you look at the damper in the picture there are no ears or obstructions. The damper on my 73 is similar to this one but the inside diameter is larger. I thought it was particular to the 73 but maybe you have that one as well. One way to tell is the outer pulley the same diameter and groove size as the inner? If so it would fit. I just need to hook you up with an early rig like mine. I have those as well. Derek

I have them in stock but don't forget they only fit this damper. Derek

I haven't finished the design yet so if it will fit then it shouldn't be a problem

I have decided to trim the drivers side but I'm going to leave the passengers side for now and cut them on request. It takes no time with the band saw. You don't save plastic though because the vacuum former uses a set size of plastic. In this case a 24" x 24" blank. Derek

A million no....a Billion dollars! Hi Juan. I got busy with a few jobs so I haven't had time to finish off the pod mount. I will be finishing it for sure though. Until it's done though I won't have a price. Subscribe to the thread above as I'll keep posting my progress. Derek

Not trying to be snarky but take any engine from the 60's pump the exhaust into a room the size of the z cabin and It would probably smell. With the windows open and moving the back of the z is a vacuum cleaner. Derek