Derek

I purchased one of their new poly tanks for my 240 that are designed to accept an in tank pump. I thought before I hacked into it I would start a thread to kick around some ideas. Here is my list of areas I want to address: In tank pump. I already have that figured out. I purchased a Tanks Inc. Fuel Pump Assembly Plates GPA-A which will accept my current Walbro pump that resides in my current swirl pot. I haven’t settled in yet on what exact pickup arrangement I want to use and would welcome any suggestions. I’m not auto crossing just spirited public street driving. The stock Walbro pickup may be fine. Venting to handle fuel consumption and fumes. I found a previous thread https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/133662-homemade-gas-tank-venting-design-considerations/ where AydinZ71 mentions using a double check valve arrangement from Mcmaster Carr that allows fumes to escape but still allows air in. I plan on using this method. Fuel level sender that will play nicely with my Speed Hut fuel gauge. This is one of the main reasons I’m switching to this tank. The stock sender just sucks with their gauge. They sell a universal lever style https://speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/fuel-level-sensors/240-33-ohm-resistive-float-fuel-level-sensor/ but I’m not crazy about staying with a lever type sender. There are a variety of 240-33 ohm straight tube senders available. Tanks Inc. sells one just not sure about the quality. Again I would welcome any feedback on this. Venting for filling. This is an area that has vexed me for quite a while. My problem is if I fill the tank in the morning when it’s cool out and drive right to the shop as the Florida day heats up there is enough expansion in the tank that it pushes raw fuel all the way through my expansion tank and it starts dripping out of my open air vent line. The first time it happened I pulled the gas cap and raw fuel came gushing out. I’m pretty much convinced that there is air trapped in the left side of the tank when filling and in fact on my 73 there is a 5/8 diameter ish nipple on the left side of the tank that I had blocked off years ago. It’s there for a reason and I think that’s the reason. Not sure how to solve that with the poly tank since there is no provision for a tube and there is no way to get a bulkhead fitting in there. The second vent is at the top of the tank and feeds into the fill neck to allow air to escape while filling. I Imagine it should be pretty easy to install a bulkhead fitting and hose when I cut the tank to install the pump. Drain plug. If I’m switching to an in tank pump I really would like to have the ability to drain the tank easily. Here again I’m thinking bulkhead fitting. That's about all I have at the moment. Derek

I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.

I've been very happy with Magnacore wires. I've had two custom sets made and never had an issue. I'm running an EDIS 6 coil with a crank trigger and MS3 FYI.

Nor mine but what a great build. Amazing engineering for sure.

Nice work. There is something satisfying for me in designing something in a solid modeling program and then walking out to the shop and actually bringing it to life. Or throwing it in the scrap bin because you had a better idea while machining it and decided to start over:)

I'm still here. I check in every morning to read the 3 or 4 new posts and then lament the death of forums like this. Facebook made a big dent but also the price of the cars has made the perfect combo of too expensive for the initial buy in and the "should I really be cutting into this series 1 to put in this V10". MONZTER's return and posts is the most enjoyable HybridZ reading I've had in a while.

Looks good. It's amazing how much stuff I ended up doing in house because outsourcing small runs became totally impracticle.

WOW talk about a blast from the past. Welcome home.

Thanks. You can't beat the Honda valve train parts and engineering.

Being as I have a Speedhut GPS Speedo I haven't even thought about it:)

So I'm going to be "that guy" that points out that's a caliper and not micrometer. Also you really need a good micrometer and standards to ensure you have good numbers. I highly recommend you take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked. I like digital micrometers but I always have the appropriate standard handy to make sure noting has electronically drifted.

Well as I always say, "no kill like overkill". I always look at this stuff from a risk standpoint. If you are qualified to setup a new LSD and ring and pinion then there is minimal risk. If you have to send it out well then there's one level of risk. That was part of my decision to go with a newer used Subaru R180. It also comes down to driving style. beat the crap out of it on every shift (I approve) then you would want to overbuild.

That's the nature of the beast on FB and reddit. A properly moderated forum like this one is the best for technical help but like all things in this world people want it now. What amazes me is in the time they typed out the question they could have googled it and got all the info they could want.

I have the bell housings and shifter adapters done, What's left to do is to finalize the template to mark the transmission for cutting and to make some cross members. Both Chris at Godzilla and I are slammed right now and these las two items seem to keep dragging on and on. I have the install instructions almost done. The CD009 was a lot easier because the additional items like shifters and cross members already existed.

This would be considered in my mind a very advanced swap in that to my knowledge no one has done it before you. If you have plenty of time then learning the fabrication skills and acquiring the necessary equipment and long term workspace would be first on the list. I've never done a swap but there is a very long list of items that need to work together for it to be a success.

This looks really cool. One of the things I have always hated was getting out of the car to adjust the shocks for different conditions. A two hour drive I want them soft. Then back on the streets I want them firm. That price is getting pretty close to what I would justify as worth it.

If you come up dry Godzilla Raceworks in Texas can help you.

That's because you are biased

I have a R180 out of a 2019 Impreza and I'm running the DatsunRestomod axles.

Looks like a nice setup. It's pretty small too. Considering all you need to add is a lift pump the price is pretty decent. Probably not enough volume for a road race car.

Glad it's working out. Biggest problem for me is retraining my muscle memory as to what gear I should be in. The CD009 gear spread really works well in my opinion.

It's pretty much hidden. There have been a few install posts on ClassicZcar including the one I did. I suggest you give this a look.

I manufacture a CD009 conversion bell housing for the L6. I sell them through Godzilla Raceworks. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain/cd00a-swap-bellhousing-kit-for-l-series-engines It uses your existing clutch pressure plate and flywheel which is nice.

I run the Vintage Air Gen 2 Mini. I had all the other stuff already so I didn't need a kit just the evap/heater unit. It fits under the dash really well.

This is it exactly. The more lopey the idle the more I notice it. My aluminum flywheel isn't helping either. A steel one would have a more damping effect. It's subjective and a camera phone is not going to pick up a true recording. The next time I pull the transmission I'm going to put some DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield in. I think that would help a bunch. I hated the noise when I did the install but as AydinZ71 said it's a known thing and after a while it's not a big deal. I love having the 6 speed though so it's a worthwhile conversion to me. Back in the day they called the Muncie M22 "Rock Crusher". The CD009 sounds like it actually is crushing rocks:). And yes the TL70 is still moving along. I'm relying on Godzilla to do the test fit and their moving to a new facility during a pandemic has not helped things. They are close to verifying the tilt angle is correct and the shifter is in the right location. I'm leaving crossmember development up to them since my car no longer has the mounting ears.