Pop N Wood

I agree with that. Concentrate on that statement and forget the copper vs. whatever. Copper is massively better at conducting heat. I worked in a power plant one summer, and they had to replace a copper steam condensor cause the copper ions were causing problems else where in the plant. You would not believe how much larger the stainless steel condensor had to yield the same cooling capacity. what was even more interesting is how they replaced the condensor. They had basically built the plant around the original condensor, so replacing it was a piece of engineering art. But like Pete said radiators are brass, which is only marginally better at conducting heat than aluminum.

Every body is talking past each other. WTF are you trying to argue? State a contention first.

Why did you let him bait you into an argument? That bike vid has been posted before. I think there was fline sand or flour on the ground. And notice how he gets all of his weight out over the front wheel. Might even be lifting the rear wheel like that.

Guess he has had a lot of time to think about it.

The Z rack has an odd ball diameter and spline count. No one, until now, makes the right size.

That is a tire burner. Looks like Jon made the cage. Lot of bars.

Send some back their way. Do you guys have the firefinder, counter mortar systems in place? Or are they coming in from populated areas where counterfire is not allowed?

Looks like fun, but will probably never be good for anything more than 2 or 3 dyno runs.

Well, I have done about half a swap. I started a swap about a year and a half ago, but family and work issues prevented me from touching it for the last year. but all is good now so getting back into it. The MC kits include both AN and standard double flare output nipples. I used a Wilwood kit with a 3/4" bore and 1" stoke, but I am running a TKO and not the T56 everyone else did. The bore and stroke for a T56 slave should be in an old post somewhere. This set up will NOT clear the washer bottle and pretty much bolt up in the stock location. Probably no different than the tilton, so get whichever. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_744520_-1 As for clutch lines, they make about every conceiveable combination of line length and fittings, so when you get it all together just go to Summit Racing and find the exact length you need. Summit Racing has a nice web site that lets you pick lines by specifying which fitting on which end, length, etc. AN fittings are a dream, so use them where you can. The 77 tank has a sump. Many guys feel it needs a bigger/better sump, but IMO unless you are flat out road racing you will be OK with the stock sump. I ended up going with an LS7 clutch and flywheel. But the FW is massive heavy, so may not be what you are looking for. One last word of warning, EVERYTHING on an LS motor is metric. Some of the SAE threads are "real close" to the metric, so just make sure you get the right metric bolts.

Good work. That is a pretty extreme change. How much did it raise the back of the diff? I did the JTR trick of drilling out the mustache bar mounting washers to raise the back end, I think 1/4 inch. I also did the RT front mount to lower the front. That got my engine pretty much level. You must have raised the rear of the diff a good bit more than that.

Clean your battery posts. Then get rid of the Volkswagen and buy a different car. Electrical problems and Jetta's go together like white on rice. Kind of a shame to cause they are nice looking cars.

I have the vented set up and managed to reuse the hardline. Had to bend it carefully, maybe a bit more than I was comfortable with, but it works. Like you I didn't want to throw away my MSA SS lines. Someday I might go back and make a new hard line.

You know I would probably go as high as $7000 for that one

Did you already get your transmission and clutch hydraulics? If you have an LQ4, I assume it is an auto. So you will need a new flywheel when you switch to the manual. The braided clutch line is the way to go. Get AN fittings on the ends and make things simple. You will still need some type of mounts. Jegs and summit have these nice stainless and rubber clamps. One thing I did was to add a speed bleeder valve to the clutch bleed line. Figure it will make bleeding the clutch hydraulics a little bit easier. You didn't mention what oil pan you will be using. You will need the windage tray, oil pump pick up and dipstick to match the new pan. Plus gaskets obviously. What year car are you putting this in? If it is a carb'd vehicle you will need to sump the tank. Depending on your intended mods, now would be a good time to upgrade the fuel lines. Of course you will need radiator hoses, heater hoses, an adapter for the different sized heater hoses on the LS motor. Might as well look into the JCI "vital fluids" kit. That will give you the JCI temperature adaptor that is needed to make the stock water temp guage work. Except I don't know if they sell that without buying their mounts first. If you go electronic guages then you should be able to use the existing LQ4 sensor. But you will need the adaptors to fit the stock oil pressure sensor to the LQ motor. What are you going to do for a speedo? Keep the stock one with a gear drive box, or switch to an autometer electronic speedo? If it is a 280 you can reuse the stock tach, once you turn the screw on the back to recalibrate it for the extra two cylinders. The rest of the exhaust can get done by a shop, although you will need to decide what type of muffler you want as well as pipe diameter, dual vs. large single. You will also need an F body belt tensioner. The LQ4 starter should work, but for completeness throw a set of battery cables on the list. Might as well add a Ron Tyler style diff mount to the list. I could probably come up with more if I opened my swap notes.

Primary colors, red and black. suppose to be good for brain development of newborns. maybe we should make Honda owners paint their cars in red and black. Actually, now that I think of it, my Z was red with black along the running boards. Plus the black weatherstrip and hood vents. No wonder I so smart.

It is worth at least a quarter a pound at the scrap metal yard near college park. Maybe more. Been a while since I bought any scrap metal.

The weight difference between the stock and vented 4x4 calipers sure seemed a LOT more than 2 pounds per side. But I didn't weight them so I can't say what the difference is. The vented calipers are a load. The rotors add a pound or two also.

I think the better way to say it is the stock brakes don't suck if you use good pads and keep them in tip top shape. If you drive the car hard enough, and especially if you are a typical amateur driver, then the stock brakes can overheat and stop working. Bigger brakes handle heat better and give you more margin. In my opinion, the biggest bang for the buck are vented Toyo front brakes and stock rear drums. Most guys on this site have run those at one time or the other. Big draw back to the toyos is weight.

That is a sweet looking little car. Guess you could put some groceries under the hood. Would have to enclose the engine though. He sure got an illiterate friend to do the ad. Got to git me one of them thare Saginol transmissions. And new tiers.

Turn on the AC..... Rain X is suppose to help.

A repost but interesting non the less. Nissan continued to make 260's for England for a number of years after they had switched to the 280's here. I think the English 260's didn't have the smog carbs either. so interesting that a 260 came in second, but I would imagine it wasn't a US spec 260.

I would be cruising the neighborhoods around that restaurant today. chances are it was some local kids. Probably riding it right now.

So the short answer is NO ONE makes a vented rotor for the stock brakes. And if someone says they do, they are most likely confused. Vented rotors will be too thick for the stock calipers.

I found this web site. They really prefer the zero rust over POR. http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7576 I think I will just sandblast to clean metal and use the epoxy primer. It is suppose to hold up well if not top coated right away.

Sweet deal. About as rust free as the early cars get. Looking at the interior shots makes me really miss my Z. I have the same year, but mine has been in pieces seemingly forever. Drive the wheels off it.