Pop N Wood

Just run it until something blows up. Then you wil know where he weak link is.

Sugar. A couple of spoon fulls of sugar will cure the hot pepper rot. Try it next time

When I am out in the garage, finally getting some alone time, working on the Z and making progress, loving life, and realize I have had too much Jim Beam to proceeed? Damn Gotta quit and go inside before I F something up or hurt myself.

Crazy Rays on Hawkins Point Rd in south Baltimore has a couple of early Z's. No 240's, but they do have a 2+2, probably 76 vintage there. (an automatic, so not and R200 in case anyone was thinking). Have no idea what kind of shape it is in. http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/direct.htm

I have considered modifying the crossmember to just be a piece of tubing across the center. Basically just cut the ends off and bridge the gap with a piece of something. That would save weight and give more room for exhaust clearance. I have the 70 R180 cross member and a later R200 crossmember. It is kind of suprising how much beefier the later R200 piece is. Most of it could have been diff loading like you say. But I think there might have been more to it. For example, the flat piece on the underside is considerably more significant than the older piece. That won't do much to brace up and down movement. So it must have been made larger to control twisting and/or side to side movement. I wouldn't leave it open on the underside. Wouldn't want to see that area opening and closing as you go over bumps. Think tension and compression (especially if you get T boned). Plus if your urethane mount ever does give out it could catch the front of the diff from cartwheeling.

Get a handheld GPS to measure your actual speed, then just trial and error change the pulse count until the speedo matches the GPS.

But why are you limiting yourself to one gear? If you do the math you will find the car will accelerate the fastest when you shift into a whatever gear puts the engine at it’s horsepower peak. It is the twisting force at the rear wheels that determines how fast a car accelerates. Rear wheel torque is simply the engine torque times the overall gearing ratio. Higher engine torque means more rear wheel torque. But so does lower gearing. You need to strike the proper balance between the two quantities. So if the car is cruising in say 3rd gear with the engine turning at the torque peak RPM and you floor it, the car will accelerate at the highest possible G’s for 3rd gear. But lets say you shift into a lower gear first and then floor it, what happens? Going to a lower gear will move the engine RPMs off the torque peak (bad for acceleration), but will also give you a higher gear ratio (good for acceleration). At what point does the drop in engine torque exceed the benefit of lower gearing? It isn’t all that obvious but it turns out to be whatever gear puts the engine at the horsepower peak. This is gear/engine RPM combination that makes the car "accelerate the hardest". I can prove this mathematically. This is the same as saying the engine horsepower before the shift should be the same the engine horsepower after the shift. I feel this is a more simple and intuitive way to describe what is happening. I also say forget engine torque curves. They only confuse the issue. Just look at the HP curve. Arrange your shift points so the engine HP before and after shift is the same. That will give you the maximum theoretical acceleration. Your own analysis confirms this statement.

http://www.zbarn.com/ http://www.baddogparts.com/

The wire might be rusted up and binding. Or the control valve completely stuck. Try moving the arm on the control valve itself and pulling the cable out and cleaning/lubing it up. Get a service manual, or find an on line copy. A search of this site might turn one up. They will have a picture to show you where everythign is.

Too bad it is based on a wrong assumption.

If you call they may sell you their cross dress model. They don't list it in their catalog. You have to ask.

The S12 guy advocating the BMW guy got banned so nothing left to see here, folks. Hardly suprising.

Not sure about your exact set up, but I destroyed an HTOB on my set up when I over extended it. When I ordered a replacement HTOB, they sent me the installation instruction that they failed to send the first time out. The instructions said I needed to measure the distance from the back of the bellhousing to the clutch pressure plate fingers and make sure it was within some range. My specific set up needed a half inch of spacers behind the HTOB to give me enough range to ensure the clutch would disengage. here is a picture to show you what I had to measure http://erareplicas.com/427man/clutch/conc_to.htm so maybe you need spacers between the HTOB and the trans body. The spacers were not anything simple, but machined pieces that pretty precisely centered the HTOB.

I copied another member's design and essentially made a crossmember similar to your links when installing an LS motor. For the LS motor it is a good solution cause the motor mounts are near the middle of the LS block. But a first gen SBC has the mounts farther forward. As it is my crossmember is only a few inches behind the stock crossmember. I think trying to use a second crossmember on a first gen SBC would put the new crossmember right on top of the stock unit. I think the JTR set back plates only move the engine a few inches back. Not much room for a second crossmember.

Oh to be a moderator and hack in a link to that sweaty guy vid....

Phew man, sounding sweet. Cracks in the plug area is not good. Should be a 10 minute fix at the pick and pull. I'm going to scavange a starter and MAP sensor off a truck this weekend. maybe snag the wiring harness just for spare wires and connectors.

My wife doesn't like me posting that kind of info on the internet

I picked one up for my kids 2 months ago. Guess that kid at Best Buy wasn't fooling when he told me if I wanted one I had better get it while they had them. Even 2 months ago Best Buy kept them in the back and still would sell out their monthly shipment in less than half a day. I will keep my eyes open for you.

Yes, cutting any holes will weaken the rails. Maybe not enough to make a difference. Rather than drilling smooth holes, you want to flange the edge of the hole making a lip. That will bring back rigidity. But the metal is pretty thick, I think it would be hard to do. Plus you will now have all these holes for water and road debris to get in. Not worth doing in my opinion.

Decided to take advantage of the mild 50° weather to prime my bad dog frame rails before installing them. And as long as I was painting with epoxy primer, figured I would strip off the Krylon primer I used on my cross members and coat them properly. So what better opportunity to use that Harbor Freight, 40# pressurized sandblaster I bought last year but have yet to use? So at the suggestion of someone on this site I drill a bunch of holes in a bread pan and use that to strain a bag of el cheapo Home Depot sand. Got out the sandblaster, loaded it up, and learned a few things trying to use it. 1) Don't try sandblasting without a blasting cabinet. An open backyard is no substitute for something that keeps the blast from coming back at you. 2) They make sandblasting hoods for a reason. Wish I had one. 4) Dragging a sandblaster across the back of your bare hand really hurts. 5) Getting lacquer thinner in a fresh cut hurts even more. 6) The cheapest respirator approved for sandblasting with real sand starts at $600. I got a $30 3M cartridge unit at the body supply shop instead. 7) Harbor Freight sells really cheap tools. 8) If the sandblaster's inlet valve breaks before you use it, take the time to replace it with a new valve rather than a coupler. Being able to quickly turn off the air supply is a good thing. 9) Pressurized sandblasters can shoot a mighty impressive stream of sand when the gun unexpectedly pops off the end of rubber hose (see 7 & 8 above) 10) The stream of sand from a popped gun head is no less impressive and is just as disturbing the third time it happens (see #9) 11) Hose clamps have no buisness holding together a sandblaster (see 7, 8, 9 and 10) 12) Be careful what you get in your beard before donning a respirator for 3 hours. The scent can be rather distracting. 13) Cheap primer is very easy to remove with a wire wheel.

Brass is copper alloy, so not sure what is meant by copper/brass. The thermal conductivity of copper is significantly better than aluminum. But radiators are not made out of copper, they are made out of brass. And the thermal conductivity of brass is a good bit less than aluminum.

IMO not rare enough. That is one pimped out product of the 70's. I like them in primer gray with no interior comforts.

Hey, that was my idea. Git r done

Damn. Liked hearing that thing rap out. Seemed like it was short shifting, at least it was going through the gears in a big hurry. Get caught doing that and it is prison time. Plus good luck getting the car back.

If somebody fixed all the other rust areas and left THAT, then I would be highly apprehensive of the quality of the rest of the work. If there is any paint on that car that has seen less than a year of on the road driving, then I would plan on stripping it off and checking the quality underneath. Fresh paint can hide a LOT. If you know you are going to do rust repair, then I would look for an “unrestored†vehicle with aged paint. That way you know what you are getting.