Pop N Wood

I guess my point is it is not an all original car. Seats and wheels are simple things to correct, but it is not so letter perfect that I wouldn't do a motor swap on it. I wouldn't pay any thing extra for the phrases "numbers matching" or "original owners". And keep in mind, different people have different ideas about what the phrase 'no rust" means. Make sure you take a close look at it.

My gland nuts don't look like that. Mine both look like your rear nuts and came off with a normal wrench. Maybe someone else will recognize what you have. I would try PM'ing either JohnC or zcarnut. Couple of knowledgeable guys.

Weren't those wheels dealer installed options? Also I didn't realize leather was factory on such and early car. But I could be wrong. I wouldn't pay that much.

That is why you ditch the drums and put on a set of disk brakes.

Not really. Not without cutting into the cabin sheet metal. What you can do is a Ron Tyler style diff mount. That will allow you to thin out the front crossmember some

How will these be different from the modern motorsport stubs? http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62 $500 beats $695, but other than that? I knows a large number of people were asking for a set with a larger than stock spline count. If you made sets with matching companion flanges, then you would have something unique.

In stock form that might make for an expensive daily driver. Can't imagine parts are readily available. I would get on some Triumph sites and start asking questions. That car might be worth a lot more to someone else. Interesting car never the less. Growing up a neighbor had a mint TR2. I always loved that car. He only drove it on a handful of weekends each year. Spent the rest of his time drinking gin and tuning the motor. From what I read some models of that car had something like 26 HP. That thing could be death on a modern freeway. 4 wheel drum brakes have to suck also.

http://www.ddperformance.com/T-56%20Transmissions.htm The place above sells brand new T56's for $2400. Can't tell from the list if the LT/LS versions includes the mechanical speedo drive. So another 600-700 to finish it off and you are at the $3k mark. T5's are an option, but the G force upgrade to make them bullet proof also makes them cost as much as the T56. Makes them louder and weight more too. Tremec makes a GM version of the TKO that should be a straight bolt up to a first gen SBC. Just get any ole SBC clutch and bellhousing and bolt this up like it was a Muncie. They have both mechanical and electronic outputs. All for only $2K. The TKO is suppose to be bullet proof, but a lot of guys don't like them much. Pete Paraska had one for a while and got rid of it. http://www.ddperformance.com/Tremec%20Trans.htm Only real way to save money is to roll the dice and get a used unit.

The rant is alright. Doesn't matter if any of that other stuff has any merit or not. What matters is you guys answered the call. You should get nothing but kudos for that. Save the other conversations for the comming elections. Let the politicians deal with all that.

Have you seen this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123341&highlight=msd+tach I don't know squat about megasquirt, but sounds like all you need is a stronger trigger. So if the MSD part doesn't work perhaps you can contact bryan01 and see about getting the adapter he made. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D8918&autoview=sku

Can't tell anything about the rust from those pics. Good news is it looks like original paint. So no new paint hiding old rust. Go to http://www.zhome.com about half way down and read their advice for buying a Z and the list of common rust areas. Surface rust is not a big deal. Visibile holes and bubbles under the paint are a concern. Take a screw driver and jab at the floor boards and around the battery box. If the screw driver goes through, that whole section needs to be cut out and new metal welded in. Car has straight bumpers. $1000 would be a good deal if the rust is as he says. Rebuilding the top end, or even buying a complete running motor that someone has sitting in their driverway, would not be a big deal.

I would imagine one phone call or email to hptuner will answer your questions.

The phantom grip has been talked to death on this site. there are a lot of posts from people who had them, and then got rid of them, so this is one time a search will tell you what you want to hear. As for the locker, I don't remember ever seeing a post by anyone who has used one. In fact, the idea they are even available for an R200 is a fairly recent topic of conversation around here. If you want to find people who have one, I would put up a thread with a title "Anyone with a detroit locker in an R200?" I would imagine the locker will be as strong as a welded diff. There are plently of testimonials about those around here. I would have to agree with everyone else that installing a locker will push your fail points to the stub axles and half shafts.

Good luck and restore some order while your over there.

This problem has been addressed before. Someone posted a detailed link on how to fix it with a loctite product specifically made for that use. Do a search and find the fix. The article was directed toward a Miata, so try using that word in the search

I don't think ( is an option. Credit card companies only get involved if there is a flat out fraudulant claim. It has been my experience they won't get in the middle of disputes about quality of service. And I am pretty sure you need to do C before you can do A.

Smart cars can be had factory stock with a 600 cc turbo motor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Fortwo They also make a turbo diesel motor, but I think that is 900 cc. Interestingly I was doing some flight testing for an Army contract and they had some Hunter unmanned aircraft there. The new ones use two Smart car turbo diesels for power, one in the front and one in the rear. Was pretty cool to see these little 3 cylinder turbo motor with K&N air filter on each. Before the diesels they used Moto-Guzzi gas motors

So you mean the stuff Deja and I linked to...

That motor must be sitting a good ways forward. When I looked into mounting the alternator there it hit the strut tower. Yours looks to have the entire alternator in front of the tower. The corvette accessories run the belt 3/4 of an inch closer to the block than the F body. The truck accessories run the belt farther out than the F body. But still, that motor comes forward a good bit. I wonder where the shifter would be with a T56 installation. And as for oil pans, the new pan of choice is the LS2 pan. Cost the same as an F body unit but gives and inch better ground clearance and has better internal baffling to better handle hard turns. Do a search, part numbers have been listed. I still think by the time you buy everything needed to fit it in a Z the 5.3 could be a false economy. Depends upon your goals, resourcefulness, and whether you want an automatic transmission.

While not a wire wrap I bought the flex braid stuff from Jegs. Looks like the same stuff we use on our radar wire bundles. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_759804_-1_10409 I think Cozy Z Cole once recommended this stuff from Eastwood. Might want to double check with him. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1368&itemType=PRODUCT This place has the good type of flexible ribbed conduit. The nylon stuff doesn't get brittle with age and crack like the cheap plastic stuff does. They have a lot of other good stuff, plus some very good tech articles. http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog.shtml

You funny guy. Sorry about your car.

Spinners? How about some Ben Hur hubcaps to get through the street demonstrations in a big hurry. Keep your ass down and head up over there.

I think you are being conservative in your dollar estimates Damn, grumpy. That ohio crank company lists an engine with dual Holley 1150's. Amazing that a motor could use that much air. Probably takes a small fire hose for a fuel pump.

Speaking of which, did you ever get the car?

No