Pop N Wood

Alright, don't know why I have such a hard time letting go of these things. Guess I don't like seeing misinformation in the threads or people making things up. Specs on the HF helmet Specifications Welding Protection Types For All Arc Welding Processes; NOT for Laser Welding or Oxyacetylene Welding/Cutting Shell Material High Impact Resistant Plastic Polyamide Nylon Shell Colors Black Shade Range 9 to 13; Clear State: #-3/4 Infrared Protection 780-1400 nm Ultraviolet Protection up to shade 14 all the time Viewing Area 6.29 Square Inch Lens Switching Speed 1/25,000 second Power Source Solar Cells (rechargeable battery included, no additional battery required) Weight 1.05 Lbs. Power ON / OFF Fully Automatic Operating Temperature 23 to 131° F Storing Temperature -13 to 167° F ANSI Approved Lens Specs on the miller elite Lens Speed 1/20,000 sec Shade Control 9-13 Internal Adjustment Sensitivity Control Internal Adjustment Delay Control .10-1.0 sec Viewing Field 97 x 60 mm (3.85 x 2.38 in) Number of Arc Sensors 4 Lens Power Control Manual-on, auto-off Low Amp TIG Rated 5 amps Inverter Capable Yes Battery Life 3,000 hours (2) Magnifying Lens Holder Yes Weight 18oz (510g) Light State #4, provides continuous UV and IR protection So the HF unit has a faster switching time, lifetime batteries, is a few ounces lighter and has been proven to never fail to properly darken in years of use. Does have a smaller viewing area and doesn't have the built in magnifiying lens holder. An important feature for us old guys with trifocals. And only, what, 5 times the price? I could say the longer switching speeds of the Miller helmet will make you go blind. But I guess I would be making that up.

You don't think it is important to use metric bolts in a metric bolt hole and SAE in and SAE hole? They are pretty damn close, but then again not really. Do you really think a cross threaded bolt will hold as well as a properly threaded bolt?

I'll bet there are a dozen guys on this site who use one of these HF helmets. Some of whom I talked into buying one. Some of the guys who were most critical of the helmet ended up trading in their Hobarts for the cheaper HF unit and are happy now. Most of the critics are people who have never tried it. You are the first guy who has one who didn't like it. If you can tell me why this helmet will make me go blind where a more expensive one won't then I am all ears. This thing has worked flawlessly for well over 5 years now.

I'm glad you live in Texas....

You can spend more, but I guarantee this one will do the job http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46092 I wouldn't suggest it if I had not been using one for the last 3 years.

I gave you a serious answer in your last, locked thread. Fiber optics. If you can't induce a current, you can't zap anything it is connected to. If it works for the F22 fighter, it will work in your Z car. Along the same line minaturization of all electronics. Taking out satellites is a golden way for a backward society to stike a blow against the western culture. And don't forget all the EMP weapons the military is developing. Doesn't have to be a nuke anymore, just a concentrated burst of EM energy designed to disable sensitive electronics. Do some google searches on the subject. I think you will have an impossible time quantifying exactly what a nuke based EMP will do. Half of the initial tests failed because somebody miscalculated the expected field strength or mispointed a sensor. It is a highly random function and hard to predict what will cause a failure and what won't. Alternators are highly unlikely to be fried. Can happen if the situation is just right, but low odds because it takes a large induced current and voltage spike. Small electronics like cell phones and pagers are very unlikely to be damaged. Just not much wire in them. The cell phone network will be killed, but handheld electronics should have as much chance of surviving as the person carrying it. Sheilding may or may not be the key. The Russians had an air burst that burned out buried cables. But the cables just happened to be hundreds of miles long and oriented in such a way they made an excellent low frequency antenna. The US test in 1962 had street light fuses get blown from 1400 km away. But when they analyzed which ones went, it was only 3% of the grid and was attached to the only long tranmission line on the small island of Oahu. Some of the other suggestions given in this thread ring true. Get an old car, carbed with a magneto. Put some voltage surge devices on the output of the alternator and try limit the lengths of your wire runs. On a Z, bury as much of your wiring as possible in the frame rails. Noise filters and voltage surge suppressors will keep peak induced voltages down by giving them a lower resistance path to ground. The comment about the viens and arteries leading into your sheilded boxes is absolutely dead on. If you are really good with electonics put opto-isolators at the interfaces of every box containing sensitive electronics. Isolation is the key.

Looks like my brand new crate motor block now has SAE thread holes. For the life of me I can't remember cross threading these holes but I must have. I am usually not this stupid. The Keisler bellhousing I bought is an adaptation of of a standard SBC unit that allows Muncies and TKO's to be bolted to an LS series motor. All they did was recast one bolt hole to make it fit the LS blocks. When they first sent it to me I called them up asking if it was the correct piece since none of the inspection plate hardware they sent will work with an LS motor. The guy assured me it was, and the extra bolt hole at 12 oclock proved that. You would think if you are going to rework a mold, you would go all out and make it fit the oil pan too. Guess the keyword in your previous post was the word "reputable". Think the wrong type bolts had anything to do with the runout being 14 thousands? I would hate to replace the dowel pins before I get the correct bolts in place. Moday I give a call to Keisler then one to McMaster Carr to get helicoil inserts. Found this on LS1 tech http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519920&highlight=bellhousing+bolts Funny thing is the SAE's seem to thread and hold perfectly right now. Suppose I would be a double dildo if I tried to use them. Especially since the engine is out of the car making the repair relatively straight forward.

I think the LS bellhousing bolts are in fact SAE. I have a bunch of M10x1.5 bolts I am used to attach lift plates to the heads and motor mounts to the block. I also have the 3/8x16 SAE bolts that came with my LS specific bellhousing. The metric bolts will not fit into the bellhousing holes and vice versa. Summit racing lists only SAE bellhousing bolts for "Chevrolet" applications. Same with the ARP web site. Are you sure LS blocks use metric bellhousing bolts? The metric and SAE pitch are noticably different, even with a pitch guage. It would take quite a bit of effort to force the wrong one into the block.

OK now you are scaring me. So far the bellhousing has only been set finger tight while I am fabbing mounts. I am using the bolts that Keisler engineering sent with the LS housing I bought from them. To tell you the truth I didn't realize they were SAE bolts until I checked them with a pitch guage for this thread. They seem to fit perfectly. The engine is a crate motor and has only sat in the wooden crate and not on a stand. Let me take a closer look at them.

Harbor Freight sells similar units for less. It would be nice to have something like that. I also would like to hear from someone who has one. My drill press has been pretty useful for my LS swap, and I did have to pay a machine shop $50 USD to machine down an alternator bracket. Such a rig would be a "nice to have" tool, but not absolutely necessary.

The Quaiffe is a torque biasing unit. If there is no torque load on one wheel, then there is nothing to bias. Hummers use ATB diffs and transfer cases. If they go off road and get one wheel in the air, then they can't move. The owners manual actually says to put on the brake in this case. Guess the bleach box may cause something like that to happen. Or if you lift an inside wheel on a turn. That is why JohnC says the suspension must be set up properly for the Quaiffe to really shine. Hard to believe the average smuck like me could go wrong with the Power Brute. I was going to put off an LSD solution till next year, but the current group buy looks too good to pass up. Early Christmas present for me.

I found a number of DIY user forums when I was searching for info on how to wire my hot tub. Might try a google search for the same. Came in pretty handy when I miswired my GFI. Better yet would be stopping by Homers or Lowes and getting one of the Reader's Digest books on home wiring. There are a lot of details to fill in. You also realize that most counties require a licensed electrician to pull the permit for a job of this size. If you aren't licensed then there is a good chance you will fail the inspection even if everything else is right. I am a little suprised the electric company agreed to turn on a main panel without a permit and someone with a union card on the other end.

Guess I should say for my GM LS2 V8. Never occured to me that you might have a different engine.

Looks like something out of a Godzilla movie

3/8" by 16 pitch, inch and a half long, grade 8 Stainless bolts typically are not as strong as regular steel

If you are talking the 4 legged horses, I thought camels are actually faster than a horse over short distances. At least that is what I remember from a bad movie I once saw. Can't believe you spent as many years in the Marines as you did and never ate mystery meat on a stick. Or a Gyro. Aren't those suppose to be mutton?

I would have used JTR or even JCI's kit if it would have worked with my specific combo of engine and trans. Ended up doing it on my own (with lots of ideas from all the good members here), but I would certainly be a LOT farther along if I didn't have to do all the trial and error fitting of this and that. It's one thing to have a complete shop with the right tools and enough free time you can invest 3 or 4 consecutive days working on the car. It is a lot harder when you have to sneak time in after your normal job and in between soccer practice and doing the wife. Not to mention hunting down the miscellaneous nuts and bolts or correct sized piece of steel. For a part time hobbyist a “kit†can be the difference between getting the job done and having it string out for so long that you lose momentum.

Isn't part of the problem with long tubes and the JTR mounts is clearance under the floorboards for the collectors?

I get compliments from older women who grew up either wanting a Z or hanging out with people who did. Put on a members only jacket and start cruising the local coffee houses. Ah, good times!

Oh, but I can't imagine driving and LS equiped car is as much fun as the swap is turning out to be...... LOL

What are you having done to your car that it is taking them 18 months to complete? Gieco is at least a third cheaper than anyone else I have checked, and I get new quotes every year. They have probably paid out $15K on my behalf over the years and have never raised my rates or given me a hard time. They paid with no complaints when my neighbor borrowed my truck and tagged a BMW, and also paid a second very expensive accident that I lost in arbitration (but which Gieco agrees wasn't my fault). They even made good on improperly repaired damage from the second accident that surfaced when the vehicle was being repaired from a third not my fault accident. All within 3 years. What's not to like? I know about their radar guns and even their crusade to ban radar detectors throughout the country. Don't like it, but since I have to whore myself to an insurance company I might as well go with the cheapest one that has a proven track record. It is all bottom line with those people so there is no reason to take any of it personally.

That starboard side JTR header does go a long way forward. Much farther forward than is necessary to clear the starter. Somebody just recently posted that they used some block hugger headers with their LS conversion. If you got something that collected in the middle and went straight down you should be OK. Don't know if you have seen any pics of the JCI mounts but they did some fancy stuff to clear the steering shaft on the port side. I have a hard time believing you won't have trouble with the steering being on the other side. I would do some searching of the photo gallery of JCI mounts to get an idea of how they ran the mount on the starboard side.

My brother is over 50 and has never driven anything but cars he has had to constantly work on. I have had it a good bit easier (didn't have kids till I was well into my 30's), but still have never had anyone buy me a car. Not once. And now that I have kids I put off buying nice vehicles to put the money into college funds instead. Like people are trying to tell you, in college, parents and grand parents helping with car loans, money for tatoos instead of food and diapers. You are living large and don't even realize it. Simple fact of the matter is if you resent your parents restrictions, stop asking for their help and earn your own way. Otherwise just be grateful for what you have.

Sounds like you've had it pretty easy in life.

It needs two more cylinders. That's what I am adding to mine anyway.