Pop N Wood

You guys are confusing me. If he hooks two complete compressors side by side, then he will get more CFM and be able to run air tools longer without running down the pressure. Do a search. IIRC Grumpyvette posted a diagram of the two compressor set up he used for years. Tank capacity will only affect how often the pump has to turn on and off. But the sustained rate of air flow is determine by the HP and CFM ratings of the motor and compressor.

Man, that would be something if it sells for that much.

Yeah, no problem there. http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LS1-LS6-LS2-Engines_W0QQssPageNameZVIStoreHeaderLinksQQtZkm? But if you want to actually hook the engine up to the car, then it is going to cost a good bit more. Guages, fuel system, ECM editing software, driveshaft, sensors, AC parts, beer etc. Adds up. Real quick. So when all of that is done, how much of that $5K will you have left to get that used $3K ebay motor up to the 600+ HP the guy claimed he could get?

Will be interesting to hear what anyone who actually uses a 357 to hunt deer posts about their experiences. IMO 3a 57 is a little light for deer, especially if you are thinking about 100 yard shots. It can be done but the dificultly of placing such a light round accurately enough for a clean kill seems a little unfair to the animal. Especially if recoil affects the accuracy of your shooting. I have an older S&W model 627. It is a 357 built on their N frame revolver , the one they normally use with 44 mags. Smith called it a "Hunter" model. The gun is very pleasant to shoot, even with hot rounds. Accurate, too. Even though I could routinely put 5 rounds through the same hole at 25 feet, it would be stretch to think I could reliably make clean lung shots at 100 yards.

zcarnut posted the spline count in a fairly recent post but I can't find it. You might try a more detailed search on his posts or PM him to know for sure. If I remember correctly the spline arrangement on the 280 steering gear is unique and no longer available. Cut and splice might be your only option. I am sure you can find a local garage or welding shop that will do it for a few sawbucks.

Thanks. Can get a custom made aluminum unit for what I would have paid for a summit one that would need to be shortened.

Not taxes, American smog laws. But from what I understand they have reformulated diesel fuel in so maybe we can expect to see more American diesels.

Yeah, must have been me then. Not an uncommon occurance. BTW, you don't have the same heat issues with a supercharger that you do with a turbo. Are standard blowers even hooked up to the oil system or do they have roller bearings?

This is the shaft I plan to buy for my TKO trans http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FMS%2DM%2D4602%2DG&N=700+400070+302905+4294900858+115&autoview=sku Add another $100 to $150 for shortening and balancing for a grand total of less than $400. Some people think the lighter weight and different resonant characteristics of aluminum shafts really help reduce the driveline vibrations. Others think you have to have steel to have a strong shaft. jap tin: any links to Mark Williams? The name is too generic to google.

I wasn't poo-poohing the idea. That is an interesting point about changing the characteristics of the centrifugal supercharger. I wasn’t aware of that but it makes perfect sense. Likewise, I hadn’t thought about the mounting options of a fluid drive, but definitely a plus for situations with limited space. Getting back to the original post, maybe it is just me but I got the impression that the original poster was looking to drive the blower off the existing oil system. Simple ideas like that are usually the best. What will keep that idea from working is the amount of power consumed by blowers. I have read articles that claim the blower can consume 20% of the engine output. So a little 5 HP blower drive isn’t going to be good for much. Have also read that centrifugal superchargers spin at 50 to 60 thousand RPM. Trying to one-off a drive system like that seems like a real challenge. Similarly I doubt there are many off the shelf components that can be bolted together to build such a system. So since there are a lot of off the shelf, belt driven options out there, I still say you “might as well use a beltâ€. BTW, I did some internet searches and turns out the DB601 engine in the ME 109 did use a variable speed hydraulic drive to spin a centrifugal supercharger. Apparently it was the first of it’s kind and fully automated.

Yeah, the Tough Guard has the silicone anti drain back valve. This is the "study" posted previously on this site http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html Both studies do the same type of unsubstantiated "this looks better than that" testing of oil filters. Both hate the low buck standard Fram oil filters but like the Fram Tough Guard filters. None of these studies ever measure how well the filters actually filter the oil. Actually the thing that got me to spend the extra 2 or 3 dollars for the Tough Guard filters was some guy who had one of the entry model disintegrate and pump pieces of filter element all through his engine.

If you learn to weld on a cheap machine, you will have a hard time telling if problems are your fault or the machines. Sheet metal can be hard to weld without burning through. It takes time to learn how to do. At the same time you need fine control of the heat to get halfway decent welds on sheet metal. If the machine doesn't give you that control, then you will burn up a lot of sheet metal thinking it is just your fault. Keep searching for first hand opinions on that specific machine before you buy it.

Just put some fluid in it and see if it keeps going down. Worry about "what if" when it happens.

There are a lot of posts about costs. Some of them with "cost" in the title. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67657&highlight=cost http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115640&highlight=cost ....... You have to weed out what costs are actually associated with the swap and what other mods people threw into their total. $6000 really isn't a lot of money. An LSx swap will go through that in a heartbeat. Don't even consider an RB swap unless you can put a "1" in front of the 6. Your absolute best bet it to find a complete, totaled vehicle and sell off the unused parts to offset the swap cost. Most people don't have the time, patience and/or facilities to do that though. But everything I have just said can be found by searching. You might want to do that and ask some more specific questions before your thread is locked and discarded.

Post looks inflamatory to me. Look back though some of his other postings. Looks to bit of a trend.

At that point it would be a supercharger and not a turbocharger. It is driven by engine torque, albeit via a hydraulic coupling. You are not going to run a blower off the little oil pump in a normal car motor. You will basically need to set up a dedicated pump and drive system. Most likely belt driven. At which point you might as well run the belt to the blower directly. The WWII German ME 109 had a variable speed supercharger that I believe was driven off some type of hydraulic pump. The advantage of this in an aircraft is you can vary the boost with the changing air densities with altitude. The British Spitfire had two speed superchargers that essentially switched gears (same as a differetn pulley size). The problem with that is the two different speeds were optimized to operate at different altitudes, so the engine performance degraded when operating at an altitude near the blower shift point.

Yeah, the bellhousing holes are oversized cause the dowel pins are what centers the trans shaft to the crank shaft (called runout). If you thread the bolts into the block and that wiggles around, then you might have an issue with stripped thread holes.

Live life while it is in front of you. Fly to Austrailia and dive the great barrier reef. One of most amazing dive spots, and freindliest countries, you could ever go to. They have these youth hostels in Cairns that are pretty cheap. You can probably book the dive boat on line. Not expensive at all. There are a lot of pretty girls in Austrailia and most of them seem to like to drink. This will give you something to talk about in the retirement home. You might be able to make the reef trip and have enough left over for a decent shell back in the states. The skyline idea is a good one, but like you said I would imagine $15K is not enough to pull that one off.

Well then please enlighten me. Higher octane gas isn't more resistant to detonation? Running premium won't stop the deiseling as long as he is using it? Who said anything about more power? He just wants to stop the car from running when he turns off the key.

At least hunt him down and get the tenderloins out. Thems good eatin.

It's called deisling. You have carbon build up in the cylinders that gets hot and ignites the gas with no spark. The engine runs like a deisel for awhile. That was pretty common on cars back in the 70's when there were still alot of high compression, carburated 60's cars and the low octane gas of the 70's. Back then we were always too poor to do anything about it so we would just leave the car in gear when we turned it off. I seem to remember flooring the gas pedal worked sometimes also. Or was it putting on the choke? Out other solutions was to "blow the carbon out". In other words get out on the freeway and open it up. Don't know if that ever worked but was alway fun trying. Switch to premium gas for a tank or two and see if this helps. The ultimate solution is to cut off the fuel flow to the engine when the ignition is off. Fuel injected cars do that by design. My old Ford Fiesta had a Weber carb with a cut out solenoid in the idle circuit that did the same thing. Neither solution is much of an option for you.

That is another difference with mine. My muffler hanger was bolted on and not welded like in your pic. Wasn't sure what the hell it was when I unbolted it. Good to hear someone else had trouble with the diff hitting the crossmember unless the ES mount was filed down. One last thing, I bought both a GM ES mount for the diff and a Ford one to mount my TKO transmission. The instructions on the Ford mount said the center hole was only for manufacturing and was not to be used to mount the isolator. Didn't see the same warning on the GM unit but was wondering if that was still the case. I almost didn't do this mod because I thought the thing looked more complicated then the clamshell stock mount solution. But once I got everything apart and saw how much room there was anbd how easy it would be to fabricate, I figured it would be a good way to get the front of the diff lower allowing me to change the engine tilt. Also a cut off wheel in a circle saw while clamping an angle iron saw guide to the plate steel is a fool proof way to get straight, accurate cuts.

What diameter of fuel line is being used, and did you up size the pick up line going into the tank? A little hard to believe you are exceeding the flow capacity of the lines at only 3000 RPM. You can do a flow check on the pump. You know, disconnect a line and see how long it takes to pump a gallon of fuel/liquid. And as long as I am throwing out ideas that I don't have to trouble shoot, Pete Paraska had a problem with his tank coating coming undone and clogging his system. maybe cut open the fuel filter and check for debris.

Yeah, I know Pete's car is a 240 but it is what it is. The item pictured is mounted on the car. Mine is a December 1970. I am pretty sure Petes is the slightly later model that doesn't have the rear hatch vents (for what that is worth). Mine originally had the diff in the pushed forward postion. So maybe they changed the arrestor strap mounts when they went to the pushed back diff. Relocating the holes is a trivial thing. Just put it on the car and take some measurements. I was going to use 1/4 plate, but then I thought about JohnC's words that there is nothing on a Z car that requires 1/4 inch plate. I almost went 1/8 inch plate on top. That cross piece is where all the rigidity comes from, plus the ES mount seems to distribute the pressure over a fairly large contact patch. Anyway you do it will be stronger than the stock rubber mount.