Pop N Wood

Well, yes and no. An an-3 fitting can be used with 3/16 hardline and an an-4 used with 1/4 hardline. But the fitting itself has a different angle (37°) whereas standard fittings are 45°. You can't put an AN fitting on a coupling made for a standard fitting. You also need a different flaring tool for AN vs. standard fittings (37° vs. 45°) Not sure which question you are asking.

My 71 built in 70 did not have a vibration problem with the stock stuff. I did do the R200 swap and swear it made the car handle better in hard turns. But never did vibrate either before or after. Worthwhile upgrade never the less.

I just finished one too. 1/4 plate is massive overkill. Used 3/16 for the top and 1/8" plate for the sides. The dimensions in Pete's drawing will not work for a 240. The bolt holes that mount it to the body are much closer together. I didn't make separate bolt tabs but just ran the sides straight down and drilled to fit. My whole unit is a good inch nore narrow too. As for the washers, I filed down the bottom of the energy suspension mount to make it conform to the rounded diff. Pretty much had to do this to get the diff up off the crossmember. John Deere green. gotta love it.

It's the beginning of a great adventure.... Congrats. The best is yet to come

Fiberglass bullets are against the Geneva Convention because once buried under the skin they don't show up on an X ray. One good backfire while tuning and you have enough shrapnel to shred your face. Maybe not likely but a thought that comes to mind after seeing so many pics of blown up turbo manifolds.

Search is your friend. 3/16 line and M10x1 fittings http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111952&highlight=90%2F10 this is where I got my lines and fittings from. shipping was very quick and expensive, but the cheaper line prices made up for it. http://www.automec.co.uk. A US supplier http://www.fedhillusa.com/catalog.html

That second link says the operating costs on the natural gas car is about 80% of what a gasoline car costs to run. That is a good bit more than a buck a gallon. Also says the in garage refilling unit costs $2k and takes 8 hours to give you enough gas for only 100 miles of driving. Seems like a tough sell to me, but will be good if it helps bridge the gap to hydrogen vehicles. BTW, JohnC posted a pretty funny story of some guy he knew that did several thousands of dollars worth of damage to his Duromax deisel when he forgot to switch over from the french fry oil before turning the motor off.

Talk about thread hyjack. I feel bad because this is one of the more informative threads I have read lately. No vortec, that is a crate LS2. I took off the valve cover mounted coil packs that came with it so I wouldn't damage them while fitting and refitting the engine. Will run with the stock parts at least initially. Maybe down the road I can mount them on the strut towers or maybe bury them in the cowl. The engine in the link I posted has the GM LS carb intake with injectors. Looks pretty wild, except IMO the rest of the engine bay is so cluttered the engine gets kind of lost.

If you confine the mounting holes to the area of the stock JTR plate you are right. But if you cut a larger piece of plate, then you can position the mounting holes anywhere you want. I have been having a very easy time cutting plate with a simple cut off disk mounted in a standard 7 1/4 inch circle saw. For some of the smaller cuts I use a die grinder and a hacksaw. The two sets of bolt holes could overlap, but IIRC there is a spacer between the datsun tower and the plate. Thus in theory one could make two plates and use studs, or some such arrangement. I have to admit the stock towers do look cheesy, but you can't argue with what works. I am making a new crossmember for my LS2 install so my stock towers got cut off a long time ago. But to brace the new xmember I keep looking at the stock set up wondering just how strong I need to make the supports/braces. Turbo Meister's set up is some serious do-do. The only thing he missed is reactive armor.

Well, running may be a bit premature. Still building. I assume by plastic covers you are talking about the red things the corvettes use. Definitely won't be using those since the won't exactly work in my application. Here it is with the coil packs removed to prevent damage. Here are some pics of a gorgeous set up that doesn't use the plastic covers http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504639 Would love to do something similar to the above, but there are some definite pluses to keeping the coil packs near the plugs. I was thinking of just replacing the black steel mounts with some flat aluminum. Everything on this motor is aluminum, so why not the coil mounts?

Maybe all you need to do is adjust your fast idle cams so the engine revs stay high when the choke is on. Also get under the hood and ensure your choke is fully closing when cold. And also make sure there are no vacuum leaks or bad hoses. You really shouldn't need a separate injector. Installing one will just cover up what is really wrong.

There have been a lot of people who have runs bunches of HP through JTR type motor plates. You may not like the look of them but if you look at their proven track record it would be very hard to argue they are inadequate. Put in solid motor plates if you want, but IMO you are attempting to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Just make sure you reinforce the frame rails properly since that thin sheet metal won't take much. As for fore-aft location, if you simply redrill the holes you can easily move the engine a half foot in any direction, other obstructions not withstanding.

I thought Jon once said there is some type of test to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. If you had HG issues I would think you would have seen evidence of that when you pulled the head. Usually those leaks only get worse with time. Besides, I think like you do in that overpressure would blow the cap or throw hoses before it shed freeze plugs. My vote is block flex. And I can see how a layer of silicone would give the plug a chance to move. That stuff is pretty squeezable. Just ask silicone boy.

The point I was trying to make in a half joking manner. My bet is you are missing some teeth in the rack unit, but Denny's procedure will eliminate all the other possibilities.

Man, you do nice work. I love such a clean look. The aluminum mounting plate gave me a good idea for dressing up my LS2 motor. Everything else on the motor is shiny aluminum. I think an alumimum plate will complement the engine soo much better than a black piece of steel. FWIW, MSD and Edlebrock are the only two who make an inginition box for the carbed LS motors, and my guess is they rebadge the same box. Hopefully the box won't let me down.

The big advantage of the JTR kit is it puts the shifter of a T5 in the middle of the stock shifter opening. MikeJTR, the guy who developed the kit, says he built the kit to allow the use of the manual transmission and made up all the weight distributions stuff to help sell the package. Hopefully I didn't butcher his word too horribly. The MSA kit is generally believed to not work with a manual trans.

Buy a piece of plate steel and drill your own set back plates. You can put the engine anywhere you want that way.

I bought everything I needed to put the toyota S12W calipers with vented rotors and Modern Motorsports 240SX rear disk conversion for ~$700 from a member here. The guy had collected everything he needed (including used calipers) but got out of Z's before installing them. IMO, the stock brakes are really not adequate for a car pushing any significant amount of power. I have read John's posts and agree with him up to a point, but I think his main point is that the stock brakes don't suck. If the rules require it they can be made to work with enough attention. At the same time John has upgraded the brakes in all of his vehicles, so that should tell you something. The price on the rear disc brackets in the thread linked above is really good. It will be interesting to hear what Ron Tyler comes back and says about the aluminum brackets. the MM sport 240SX brackets look similar but are made out of steel. Corrosion is just not much of an issue. But keep in mind for your application you really don't need to go rear disc. Just the vented toyo front disks should give you pretty reliable stopping power. Also IIRC there have been some negative opinions about the 280ZX rear calipers. Some people flat out hate them.

Did you get your car yet?

I think that 240sx was a group build over on LS1tech.com. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552041&highlight=240sx funny, they had the same problem with their Pinks build as Hybridz did. What is it about Pinks builds that destroy any sense of brother hood?

I'll bet they could get it to work if they added an Aquygen generator.

What is the advantage of using MS instead of reprograming an OEM computer with say HPtuner?

Interesting. Turns out the lens doesn't need to darken to protects your eyes. from http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2002/collision.cfm So much for the going blind garbage. Looks like that much more of my money for Jim Beam.