Pop N Wood

You don't have to totally return to the stone age to set up a carb. Who reads plugs in this day and age? http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm You guys need to reread the initial question. They are pretty basic and, IMO, display a general lack of knowledge if not understanding. I was more trying to get the guy to take a step back and get some more background information than to make a decision based on a couple of quick opinions. And there are people who honestly believe a carb has a power advantage. I didn't say I was one of them, but I have read enough internet chatter to know there are people who firmly believe that.

Thanks. I needed that motivation.

This reads too much like a typical internet scam. Are you sure this is legitamate? What is SDU? Why wouldn't the cop post his name? How can anyone call the sherrif's personel department to check if the author really works for them? Not disrespecting you for posting this. I know you have been on this site a long time and that is the only thing that gives this credibility. I just get suspicious when I read things like this.

The absolute best, most powerful vacuum I have ever seen was in a ship yard. It was powered by compressed air. They had a 1 inch air hose going to a convergent-divergent eductor nozzle hooked up to a 55 gallon steel drum. They used a car muffler to cut down on the noise. No moving parts. That thing would have sucked up bowling balls. We used it to clean up asbestoes dust and radioactive paint chips. Ahh. Good times!

There are some people who feel the carb has a power advantage over FI. Something about cooling the intake charge. FI is "easy to tune". All you need to do is get a lap top and learn how to use the control software. Oh, and then you need to know how an engine works so you know what to do to get the most out of the engine. That second sentence holds true for setting up a carb, too. As for your question, the reason you can't find anything definitive on the subject is because there probably isn't a single correct answer. There is a lot more to makeing power than just the fuel metering.

The solid diff mount I had on my car for all of 10 minutes was so loud I felt physically ill when I got out of the car. Results do vary, but for some reason with my old R180 and a solid mount the noise was absolutely unbearable. FWIW I ended up building a Ron Tyler style mount for my car. Once I got everything apart for the engine swap I realized just how simple the over the top mount really is. Here is an excellent write up on what needs to be done.

Man. You're going to shake all that bondo loose with those. Better carry a wisk broom and dust pan.

I have a set of cheaters in my helmet. I also wear trifocals. Even with 3 sets of lenses to choose from I would have a difficult time welding without the cheaters. Some of the cheaters have a table on the back side that tells you what power to buy based upon your age. Nailed it perfectly for me. I am not sure why they would make your eyes fail any faster than puberty did.

LOL Well, when you find one, let us know. FWIW the old unit I have only has handles on the top. Never had a problem with the bottom coming unattached, even with the tank full of gravel.

Damn dude. Step back and pound a beer or two. I have had a Sears vac that is 12 years old. It is just starting to sound like a bearing is going. When it dies, I will get another Sears vac, most likely this one The sears units have bitchin filters that even trap drywall dust.

GM redesigned the PCV system on the LS2 motors. They got rid of the valve cover vent and now vent the system from the valley cover. LS1tech has a number of threads on how to easily upgrade the old motors. Maybe I am reading the LS1tech threads wrong but sounds like GM fixed the oil consumption issue. The carb'd LS2 crate motor I am installing is rated at 446 HP right out of the box. Nothing forged and stock 05 corvette cam. LS7 clutch and flywheel ran me about $400. I will do the complete swap using all brand new parts (including crate transmission) for about $13K. What is the going rate for 450 HP RB motors swaps? This carb's LS2 is going to be super simple to work on. Can't believe the RB guys will be saying the same.

The on-off set points on most compressors are not adjustable. Yeah, air tools are nice. Smooth, no vibration and they get cooler as they run, not hotter. An air hammer can be a godsend at times too.

You know, in this case I think calling the cops would have been much more useful than beating them up. Those guys were obviously well organized. Where did they get their detailed lists of multiple cars from? Probably from one of the shops that the guy did buisines at. Would have been nice to get the whole crew and not just the repo men. Might even have led to a shop with a bunch of other people's cars. But that wouldn't have made for such an entertaining internet story.

Dark red liquid is rusty water. You need to open the drain valve pretty much every time you pressurize the system. I took off the drain petcock and hooked a section of hose with a blowgun end in place of the drain valve. Makes it simple to blow the water out of the tank on a regular basis. I hooked up a water separator and adjustable regulator and mounted that on my garage wall. I then ran copper pipe all through the garage so I have air hook ups at all the major work areas. The mechanical water separator doesn't seem to do the best job. Maybe someone knows a better way.

Go to http://zhome.com/, scroll about half way down the page on the left hand side and there are a group of links about buying a Z car.

Well, HYBRIDZ rules says we are not suppose to guess but only answer if we "know". But if I had to guess, it would be that you have a car that runs high 10's on almost 40 year old rubber isolators. Go back and read some of JonhC's posts about the routine maintenance he use to perform on his cars before each race. Maybe they just had taken enough abuse. Obviously don't drive the car until the isolators are replaced.

You don't need a stand alone computer to automatically adjust for low octane gas. All modern FI engine use knock sensors to automatically retard timing should you gt bad gas. My geo had that back in the 90's. As for direct injection, that is getting much more common, even for domestic econoboxes. Detonation is not possible because there is no fuel in the compression chamber until it is ready to fire the spark. I think there are still octane limits on direct injection motors. I know the Germans used it in there aircraft back in WWII. I would stay the F away from anything with concentrated TEL. Can't believe that is even legal to sell. Not to mention what it will do to your catalytic converter.

Damn. Nice work. I'll have to bring my car by should it ever need that type of repair.

Could be anything but start by looking for vacuum leaks. Look for loose, broken or missing hoses.

Yeah, Smith makes a back country version of the 500 mag just for bear defense. But in all honesty as long as you don't try fighting the bear for the fish you catch it is easier to avoid bears than to fight them. If things get out of hand, they make bear pepper spray that will stop an animal in his tracks. Works on the banjo toting, back country 2 legged predators too.

I'd contact those people who said they would pay $12K for it....

I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest here, and I am not saying my opinon is more worthy than someone else's. I am in the middle of an LS swap, but I unquestionably took a more expensive route than most. But with that, I don't know about where you live, but there are no junkyard LSx-T56 combos in any of my junkyards. I couldn't even source used parts like alternator brackets locally because the first thing that happens to those engines is they get yanked and sold whole. Prices on the old F body stuff has ballooned in the last year or so. They simply aren't getting any cheaper. And the "incidentals" you are talking about are expensive. Headers, exhaust, guages, fuel system, reprogramming, cooling. That can easily hit $2K right there, especially on a non-FI vehicle. But the thing that caused me to respond was the "600+" HP. It would be hard to build a SBC engine with that kind of grunt for $5K let alone do a whole swap.

The 50 AE is a nice round, but it is not overly popular . That will make finding cheap ammo for it that much harder. The S&W 500 round has a much brighter future and a MUCH bigger hit. http://www.shootingusa.com/SIGHTING_IN_SHOWS/7_HANDGUN_HUNTING/7_handgun_hunting.html Plus those Desert Eagle guns can be a handful to shoot. Compare the S&W round to the other top contenders. Ballistically it has over 600 ft-lbs more energy than a 454 Casull

Even with the simplifications you listed I still don't think you will be able to complete an LSx/T56 swap for $5K. And if you are honestly thinking about 600+ HP, then I will bet dollars to donuts that four times that amount is not enough. Especially when you start getting into the chassis and other drivetrain mods that 600+ hp requires. I would love for you to prove me wrong on this, but I don't think you will be able to. Just make sure you know what you are getting into before you start.

Had a recent thread about this where someone 'fixed" the problem on their Miata with some red locktite. Do a search. The guy posted detailed articles. I had an old truck that did that, and managed to file out the grooves slightly and fit the next sized up woodruff key. Ghetto fixes, not the correct way to do it, but cheaper than replacing a crank.