zero

well its nice to know that some of you guys have and have had 323's. The reason I bought this car is because my dad had an 88 4 door that ran and ran until an explorer rear ended him at a red light. I am really liking the car, and if I somehow run into a nice little fwd engine/tranny, I may just make a hybrid out of it.

well, if i remember correctly from that twin engined tibouron, the pavement does a decent job of syncing up the similar engines. I suppose the same would be true with two VERY different engines. Either way its cool as hell

Its a 92 mazda 323 hatch. lots of miles, but its in good condition and has only had one owner. It has a nice little head unit and stereo, and it's stick of course. On the outside it has a little bit of rust, but nothing serious, and its only a beater anyway. for having 84 horsepower it is surprizingly quick, but I guess that is because it weighs 1800lbs. It has tiny tiny little 155/80/13's, but man, it can roast them really well if you let the clutch out a little hard. All in all I am very happy about my $500 purchase

yea, just needed to buy a short length of 3'' tubing

I was tired of hearing the fan over the exhaust note of my car even though i have a full custom 2.5''exhaust (installed by the P.O.) so i cut of the old muffler, ran it and decided it was too loud. After that I cut the muffler can open and gutted it, leaving only the baffling that used to hold the tubing inside the muffler, but removing all of the tubing. I then welded it shut and angle cut a 3'' tip and welded it on. Add some flat black paint, and 10 minutes of welding it back on, and I had what sounded like a different car. All things considered, I think it looks and sounds pretty nice, especially for 40 minutes of work. Tell me what you think. http://www.geocities.com/zer0zgtr/zerorev.mp3

I too have a story like that. One day my friends Giancarlo and George are with me in Carlo's 91 300zx 2+2, and were cruising somewhere with our other friends, John, Jon, and Connor in Johns 95 Honda Passport. Now keep in mind that we are in Cedar Grove, NJ which is notorious for ticketing and racial profiling, Carlo is white and John is black. So we all pull into a lot to figure out where we were going, and carlo pulled a little donut, then pulled alongside the passport to talk. As soon as we had started talking, a cop pulled into the lot and circled the lot. So we begin to leave, 300zx following the passport, and the cop follows behind the Z. So everyone in the Z is freaking out, because I was the only one with a seatbelt on, we had too many people in the car (provisional liscence, silly jersey) and we thought we got caught doin a donut. So after a quarter mile or so, the cop zooms out from behind us and tucks inbetween the Z and the Passport, flips the lights on and pulls John over. He ended up getting a ticket for a few days expired registration. That was hilarious and sad at the same time

After my car sat out in some of this hurricane rain while I was at school I drove it and it seemed to have moments where it wasn't making nearly the necessary amount of power, like it had really bad spark or something of the sort. The next day I took it out of the garage and it was still wet as the garage was cold. On my 8 mile trip to school the car died completely three times. I mean no spark at all. Every time after a few tries starting it, it kicked to life. I went to school then once after school it did it, after that It didnt do it at all, so I think it is related to the rain. Do any of you have any ideas of what it could be? Also, a little while ago I burned out a fusable link for the taillights/interior lights. So I replaced it and it lasted for an hour or so of driving with the lights on, then died. Now, it immediately burns through the recommended 20A fuses, and when I put a 30A just to test the fuse and wiring gets REALLY hot and the interior lights dont come on at all, while the tails do. Please help as I am getting very frustrated.

Yea the parts where it looks wet or more glossy are the parts with a slightly different texture, and you really dont notice that except in really awkward light. I would tell people that its a professional job, but i like the look on peoples faces when I tell them I sprayed it myself. Thanks everyone for the comments. SlownRusty, My neighborhood is pretty nice, which, considering it is in what was recently the most dangerous city in the country, is pretty surprizing. My immediate area is quite nice, with trees and garages and just nice houses. Go about 8 blocks east and your in the heart of Newark. Its odd. Anyway thanks for the compliment

Yea the parts where it looks wet or more glossy are the parts with a slightly different texture, and you really dont notice that except in really awkward light. I would tell people that its a professional job, but i like the look on peoples faces when I tell them I sprayed it myself. Thanks everyone for the comments. SlownRusty, My neighborhood is pretty nice, which, considering it is in what was recently the most dangerous city in the country, is pretty surprizing. My immediate area is quite nice, with trees and garages and just nice houses. Go about 8 blocks east and your in the heart of Newark. Its odd. Anyway thanks for the compliment

Well, I was doing body work for a while, but school has been cutting down severely on the time i can spend on the car, and winter is coming, so I had to get the car outta primer. Went down to home depot and bought some 4 quarts of satin black rustoleum, thinned it a bit with acetone, and started spraying. I think it came out really well all things considered. I dont mind the somewhat uneven texture, and I plan on putting on a few more coats anyway. Anyway, it was cheap, easy, covers up the bodywork I didnt finish, and I love the look. Also the texture difference shows up alot more in pictures than it does in person. Here are the pics.

i might be interested in your watanabes, how much would you want for them.

I had been planning to do some proper body work and to paint the car this winter, but I recently had a slight run in with a telephone pole shattering my fibreglass headlight bucket and denting my hood and fender, since I will be doing the body work to get these parts straight, I figured I would just shoot on something to get the car looking uniform, instead of cheap flat white with a primer grey hatch. I had seen earlier that one member used a roller with a bit of bodywork, to lay satin black rustoleum on top of previous paint. I was thinking of doing the bare minimum body work and just going over the car with some paper to give the rustoleum something to grab on to, and spraying on the rustoleum. My question is, is the satin rustoleum sprayable through a cheapish gravity feed spray gun and compressor. I am not looking for perfection by a long shot, and this is a satin job so really doesn't have to be perfect, but I want something that will stand up to the weather, and that will look relatively nice from a distance. basically is the rustoleum compatible with a spray gun. Also if anyone has any other suggestions or comments they will be appreciated

nice vid, and you gotta love the Tool song in the background.

That video reminds me of something that happened a couple of weeks ago. I was heading home from the Jersey shore, minding my own business, cruising in the fast lane with traffic when I saw this white miata with no front bumper weaving HARD through traffic. I waited for him to pass me, and because it was a long trip and I was bored, I tucked in behind him. Once he took notice of me, he slowed up and lined up with me, pointed to his radar detecter, did a circle motion with his finger, dropped a gear and sped off, I followed him, and then he pulled over and slowed a bit, and i figured it was time for me to lead. We did this passing game for a while, and then he took the lead and started weaving CRAZILY. I mean cutting across 4 lanes in tight traffic and passing on the white line between cars, I was amazed. I just kept up by sticking to the left and near left lane, but he was using the whole highway. His car wasn't even very fast, but he whipped that thing around like nobodies business. Also, he had mis-matching front and rear wheels, and a helmet in the passenger seat, so he was either an autocrosser or a drifter. That was quite a sight.

The Supra IRS would be great from a handling point of view, and it would hold up to the power, but from what I've seen, it can be hard to get them to hook up well with alot of power. There is a video of an 11 second supra about a quarter down, which is about how fast you would be, trying to get traction despite squatting like a dog. http://www.exvitermini.com/mr33.htm Just posting what i have seen. I personally would go for the supra IRS anyway.

I know most of the boss hoss's are single speed direct drive, but that trike looks like you would have enough room for an auto under there, that would be quite awesome.

on the second and third page he actally starts chopping the car, when this thing is finished, it is going to be really sick. I bow down to this man.

eh, I would rather get it mounted properly than take it off. As it is my car rolls quite a bit in corners, I am hoping to get rid of some of that. Thanks for the suggestions though. I think I will get a section of box tubing that is the same length as the distance from the frame section to the sway bar mount and weld that to the frame and mount the bar to that. Honestly, I hadn't even taken a look at how the bar was mounted before now, I will take care of it.

i think ive seen one of those before, but not like that, it looks like he chopped it....alot. That car is pretty awesome. It's different and I like it.

blueovalz, I am not sure if it is loose there, but once my endlinks arrive, I will make sure, and if they are i'll just weld a bead on top and bottom to keep it in place. Quadcamz, I am pretty sure I have an r180, as it would have come with the car and I dont *think* the previos owner replaced it. though i havent really taken a good look at it.

sorry about the huge photos, I resized them.

nope 72 240z, it should be fine, im justn ot sure how long the endlinks should be.

here are some very large pics of what ive got currently. I fear that if i go with something 4 inches long I will have clearance issues with the halfshafts. Also, given the yellow, i dont think this is a stock bar.

well i got my two fd seats on ebay for 103...plus 150 or so shipping. I love em. keep an eye on ebay for em, i saw two sets when i was looking.

well as i have recently found it exceedingly hard to find cromoly tubing in my area, I would be willing to buy a complete, unwelded set of tubes and plates maybe, just to save you trouble and shipping costs. I can weld everything together myself, but it would be nice to have everything be the right length and all first. just give me a quote for the tubes and such whenever you get a chance. No rush, as I probably won't be doing my floors until the winter anyway. Thanks.