zero

pre-molestation. I will have some after pic later

Wow, I cant wait to see that magazine article. That will be great. We should have personalized Jackstands, and some stickers. That will be awesome.

I bought a Z, but i havent had option of swapping another engine in it yet. What did you have to do to unlock this. My r34 is as sick as it can be right now, though its only ~500hp. This game is as ricey as can be, but its still great fun.

I have some beautiful american racing libre wheels which i love, but they are 14's, what is the best braking system that i can fit under these. Thanks

hmmm, parts i have and need to install: tokiko struts, steering rack, brake wheel cylinders, horn, blower, radio. parts i need to buy to get car on road: tires, bushings, clutch. things i plan to get done before driving the car extensively: replace floors and frame rails(ugh), weld in roll cage, do bodywork, paint car, get bigger brakes, straighten bumper, make car waterproof, replace cheap carpet with original leather(vinyl?), get h4's. do i qualify, and if so can i join?

I have a 72 with a modded l24 and i get a ring, though mine seems to be only above 3000rpms in 5th, and is not very all that intrusive. I have yet to diagnose my problem, but I just thought I would let ya know I've got it too.

I pass all of those requirements, haha. I really need to fix my floors, and frame, and steering rack, and struts, and brakes, and wiring, and tires. I should also diagnose that odd clunk coming from the rear of my car, and try to keep my gas tank from leaking. Heat would be nice too. Wow, my car is a mess. Can I be a member?

I wouldnt think that a normal fire would get hot enough to completely melt engine quality metal, but i guess i was wrong. That is sad.

I could really go for a rear hatch and a cf hood. I would send you mine, but the hatch has had body work done on it and a bit of rust, so i cant imagine that it would make for a good example. My hood is decent, but if you have a guy with a 240 and 280 near you, maybe they would be better to get a mold from, to save on shipping. Man oh man, a cf hatch and hood would look so nice. Please, everybody else, show interest so this guy will make them.

yes, but in japan they have a much better selection of engines. The silvia and the 180/240sx share a platform.

thats cause nissan never painted em black. leared this too. I wanted black, but it looks as though i will just paint mine.

thats cause nissan never painted em black. leared this too. I wanted black, but it looks as though i will just paint mine.

Wow, i just recently got my car, and it has some suspension problems so i havent even had it past 4000rpms, but that is really really fast. You have me excited now. Thanks alot.

I ordered struts for my 240 a few days ago and thought, stupidly, that they were sold in pairs. A company with decent service would have simply sent me one front and one rear strut. Modern Motorsports sent me an email asking me if i was aware that I did not have a complete set, and VERY promtly refunded my money. I was very impressed, and because of the great service, I plan to order all my suspension and brake parts from them. Thanks Alot. -Will

While were predicting times, what kinda time do you think a 72 240 with l24 bored .10 over with a polished head, cam, full exhaust with headers, su's, a 5 speed, and k&n's would run. Also, how much of a gain do you think I would get with triple webbers. Thanks

zr8ed, dont get the wrong idea, the frame rails have been satisfactorily replaced, but i never really trust non stock work that i didnt do myself. thanks to everyone for the pics.

well the I have a few reasons for building this cage. The car has had its frame rails and floor replaces, and i dont particularly like the job that was done. I will at some point fix this, but for now, I want to stiffen the car up without getting under it because i dont currently have access to a proper lift, and really could not do the job right. I plan to drift this car on the weekends, and want this car to be very stiff anyway, for control, safety, and longevity of the car. The cage i had in mind starts at the rear shock towers, that tie into eachother and the main hoop. from the hoop a bar follows the roofline to the dash area. double bars would run along the floor low enough that entry and exit wouldnt be too much of a hassle. at the dash two bars per side would penetrate the firewall, and tie into the front shock tower, and the fender. i will have a removable front tower brace, and the towers will be triangulated to the strong part of the firewall. sounds like alot, but drifting is very hard on cars, and i think the car will need it not to crack in half. This will also keep me from worrying about the frame not being straight when i replace the rails. Thanks for all the submissions so far.

very nice, thanks alot!

I am designing a cage for my car, and would like to see pictures of other cages in Zcars. So, if you have one, or have pictures of one, please post them. It will be interesting to see the different designs. If you have info on how the cage worked to stiffen the chassis then post that too. thanks.

my car has had its frame rails replaced, and i do not particularly like the quality of the work that was done. I will replace them again at some point, but because I do not have the ability to do the job right on a rotisserie, I will be welding in a full cage. I plan to tie the rear strut towers together, to the hoop, then having a general cage with low side bars, and going through the firewall at two points per side(near hood height and low near the rails) to tie to the front towers. I will make a front strut tower brace, and also triangulate them to the firewall. I hope to have it stiff enough that it could support the weight of the car without relying on the frame rail. at some point i may add enough tube frame that i will remove the load bearing members of the old chassis, but i am getting ahead of myself.

I am sorry man. I know how it feel to be dissapointed about a car. Hopefully youll put the usable cars to good use and make another monster.

I wouldnt have to shorten the strut housing for the tokiko struts would I. also, how much lower is practical with the stock housing length.lastly, am i correct in my assumption that the small metal length of tubing at the bottom of jeremy's page was to let the rabbit insert fit adequately in the housing, because it was too short. Thanks

just to clear up my mental picture, could someone post a picture of just the strut cartridge. thanks

I have done a search and only got more confused so here we go. I have a 240z that bounces all over the road, so I am in need of new struts. I decided that I would upgrade and save a bit of money by buying the tokiko struts from modern motorsports. I would like to install them myself, but got confused when i did a search and read about people having trouble removing gland nuts. To the best of my understanding, the gland nut is on the top of the strut, and I do not know why it would have to be removed. I thought the strut would be sold as an assembly instead of a cartridge. Please help me to understand the strut assembly and installation. Thank you.

the 240z really needs a windshield angle like that. I bet it would be much more aerodynamic, and it looks sooo cool.