240z72

In need of just one hub. For the right price I'll take a set. Shipping will be to 95020. Thanks. Jim

I'd take the new one back and have them exchange it. I've never had the Datsun ones leak. That's interesting that the new one dose too. I believe I have a few stock ones layen around. I'd give you one after I verify it works. If it gets to that.

Is it a matter of just putting wires back together or is the body harness completely missing? If its removed you may have to rewire the basics. May be easier and better off, to run an aftermarket harness. If its all there and hooked up it could be just simple fuses. Anyway I'd play that issue as a big card when it comes down to price. Spend some time looking it over and give your best guess why they dont work. See what you can dig out of the sellers head about it. Good luck.

Interesting to see a Ford build. Not too many. Ive only seen one in person. Was a 302. Looking forward to seeing it. Good luck.

My two cents just on the dingo mounts. They are weld in. Not bolt in like the JCI mounts. I'd recommend the bolt in over weld in. Unless you beef up the paper thin frame rails. Again my two cents.

I Suggest educating yourself on starting systems. YouTube will help. It will be an uphill climb upside down if you have no clue how to take care of your new ride. Take the starter off and go to a shop.

I'd recommend pulling the starter out and researching the starter you have. Making shure its the correct one. Count the teeth. Inspect things the best you can or seek help at a parts store. They will most of the time help you out. IF you can get another one that's the correct one for your setup next to nothing, that you know works, you can just switch and see if your still having issues. There's also a few voltage tests you can do to make shure the solinoid is sending PROPER voltage. But it may be a Lil involved if you never had experience with a volt meter.

Also check the bendex. Its the gear/shaft assembly thing that spins. Make shure its pops out tword the fly wheel when power is applied. If the gear just spins when power is applied the bendex is bad.

+1 for the SBC swap. That being a carb 350 or a LSX. Pull the motor and sell it. Should be able to get a good coin in HI for it as there few around I bet. If you do go LSX and your smart enough to put the square block in the square hole, you can do the swap. The harness just connects to sensors on the motor that for the most part only goes one way. Most worked harnesses only have 2 or 3 wires you have to think on how to hook up. Constant 12v and key on 12v. Bout it. You will be miles ahead in power with eathier v8. If you know something about the gen 1 SBC the gen 3 LSX will just fall into place. DONT over think the wiring!!! Its a small hill to climb not a mountain. A good aftermarket harness is labeled too. Almost plug n play. Good luck!

Major lag on the update. Just no time to do write ups of the build. Ill try and get current as fast as possible but i know everybody loves pictures. I pulled the motor on may 29th. Had bottom end issues. Slight Knocking. It was bairly noticable. But i heard it. Knowing I would want to DRIVE this car I wasent having it. Especially when the oil had a slight hint of metal. So as i wanted to do regardless I pulled the motor. Found a bad bearing on #3 rod. The rest look basically like this. Seems like damage from dirty oil. Im guessing a lack of oil on the #3. :/ Found This interesting. So i considered my options. I lucked out and found a sweet one piece rear main short block. Was told ruffly 3-4k on it. Has a decent rebuild in it. .30 over pistons, shot rods, Scat crank, balanced bottom end. Came with a Moroso drop pan. High flow pump and possibly a RV cam. According to paperwork i have its done by a shop in San Jose Ca. Moven right along, I stripped my motor and prepped everything for installation on the short block. I Picked up a nice stud kit for the heads. More of a cosmetic thing IMO for what im doing. Along with a full gasket set. I went threw the heads and changed the stem seals as one was leaking. Also lapped the valves. I decided not to take them to the shop as everything was fine before with them. Poped them on and closed it up for that night. After getting the valve train in and adjusted i finished up with the water pump,oil pump/pan, intake manifold and valve covers. New gaskets where needed. Have plans for an AN breather catch can setup down the road so im going to run the stock covers for now to save a few bucks. Here is a current pic of the motor as it sits waiting to be installed. Once I got the motor setup for the most part I went after the motor bay. Basically cleaning it up. Cutting, welding, grinding and sanding. Filled and removed the extra hole and brackets. Took it down to a suitable surface to paint. Used a bit of filler to fix a few imperfections that stuck out. BEFORE PREP/CURRENT Currently do minor touch up and then I will paint the final coats. Im just using Duplicolor High temp engine paint. Low gloss black to be exact. Feel if done right it will hold up better, longer from the heat of the bay. Apposed to the regular stuff $1.50 cheaper. My opinion only. Maybe Ill graduate to the paint gun one day. NEXT! The car has a full Centech wiring harness. Which is done quite well besides the fact that the tail light dont work. And the back two markers. Anyway I pulled the dash as i plan to do some hush mat or something along those lines. Also to maby install my new GUAGES. I do plan on getting the speedo but the setup would be a good $500 to get it running. Plus i found today the drive gear for the sender in the trans is missing. :/ Heres what config im going to run with for now. Well This is basically where im at currently. Im currently looing into the 84 Camaro T-5 i have. Its not a WC. Need a Clutch kit. It has a BBD in it now. MINUS a pilot bearing. The Imput shaft dose have a bit of movment. So I may brainstorm for a bit on what i want to do. Any imput would be great. What kind of power can these things handle? Ive read 300 ft/lb TQ for the WC and high 200's with what i have. T56??

With a tag ID of 13-52-062 I pulled up that its a 1984 GM Camaro/Firebird 5.0 V8 Model. I highly doubt its a WC. Numbers don't say it is. But it looks to be rebuilt at one time. Ive heard you can Install a WC kit into the non WC?? Even if so I again doubt i'm lucky enough to have it. I measured everything just in case but your right most kits come with one. Now when looking for a clutch kit do I buy for a 84 camaro? Thanks Miles for the help.

Interested...

I already have illuminas. Are you willing to part with the coilover kit? Send me pics if possible to jkk19876@gmail.com

I was wondering what pilot bearing I need to use for my 350/T5 combo. I'm way overdue for updates on my build or re-build thread. When I removed the motor and trans. I found there was no pilot bearing installed. I'm not and expert but I believe it should have one. I think not havig one can screw up your input shaft bearings. Any help would be great.

Looking for a decent setup. Not looking for tier one stuff. Nothing stock. Must be coilover. Let me know what you got please. Thank you. This will be going into a 260z. Which is a late 260z so I think it's the sane as a 280z.

Hubs found!

I believe I have the 280 hubs. But my vented Toyota brake kit won't fit 280 hubs with the spacers I have. The kit was made for 240 hubs. Different spacers cost more then hubs. From what I've seen.

Looking for a nice set of front 240z hubs with or without studs. Also looking for a set of 27 spline 300zx turbo 4 bolt adaptor flanges for the CV LSD convertion into the S30. Thanks In need of a 260z DRIVER SIDE inner front fender plastic dust / water / IDK shield. It attaches to the body and fills the gap between the fender and body. Just in front of the door hinges.

Thanks Keith. Can't wait to get it back on its feet.

Miss this thing but I got me something new! See it in the Gen 1-2 section. Dont know if Krinny every posted. But heres a few pic of my old LS1 240z last i saw it after its new owner had some time with it. Thought id share. Window is always open in the future for an LSx for my new Z. So i may be back one day. For now "GOTTA KEEP IT CARBURATED!"

FWIW I have a T-5/350 and I LOVE the way it shifts. It dose have a Hurst shifter with adjustable limiters.

Back in action! Came across this threw a friend of mine. 1974 260Z (11/74). Got it for a great price. Sat in a garage for about 3 years. Was drug out of a barn by my good friend about 8 years ago. He then swaped in the motor/ trans and ended up selling it before it drove, to the guy i got it from. He then carried on a decent swap. The car has a very nice COMPLETE aftermarket harness. Has very little rust. All of it is exterior. Flairs and fenders could fix it all . Original paint (and pin striping?). Has Eibach springs with Tokico adjustable struts all the way around. Larger Gen 1 Yota brakes up front. And a few other nice features. It goes down the road very nice. One of the best riding z's Ive had. Sadly the Motor dose have issues. It had a faint knock. And a few other issues I noticed after having it for a few days. At the time of writing the the motor is completly stripped. Will go into more detail later on what i found. (Bearings) Anyway Its awsome to be back and have a Z again. Heres a few pics. Currently has a lil beef under the hood. A small block Chevy Vortec 350 (1996??). Fed by a Holley Avenger. I was told its a 650 but Havent verified. Mated to a T-5 (from a camaro? Havent done the research yet). Which is spinning an open R200 (Ratio unknow still). Ahh the joys of buying projects. More to come!

Thanks Casper for finishing this for me. Thank you for the props PLATA!! Im pleased you and hopefully others find my thread useful and inspirational. HA! I had a feeling the wife would just LOVE IT! You want more? I can smuggle some to you hahahah....