Lockjaw

I wouldn't be afraid of him in my ZX. I have no turbo badges on mine.

That bloodninja guy is funny. Is that the one about the animal charging your ass? I got to sign up for that board, just for the entertainment.

I always found mine ran better once it was fully warm for some reason. Maybe my driving skills improved or something. That is a smoking 1/8th mile for what you got, more boost and an intercooler should get you down into the low 8's with a nice bump in mph, if you hook with more boost.

How long does it have to last?

Well how do you know the person installed the system right? Second, if you are buying the JWT system, then you are making a decision to install something in your car that is what it is. Complaining that it is not tuneable is wrong, it is tuneable, just not by you. You can also change other parameters on the car. For instance, you can adjust the timing, cam timing, fuel pressure(if you use a different pressure regulator), spark plug gap. Optimize it on a dyno with a wideband, send Clark your dyno pulls, and he can do something with it. Usually all they have to do is make some minor adjustments to the timing maps, thats what they did to my car. You can see what it runs with a full weight ZXT, its no slouch. Yeah it isn't what James or Scottie run, but there are people with stand alone's in lighter cars here that I would embarrass on the street or drag strip. It is reliable as stock efi, and that is the primary reason I went with JWT. I spent a lot of time looking around, and talking to Clark out there. I will say this, if you are an idiot, and buy their system, you are asking for a let down. You have to have a decent working knowledge of efi, and the ability to take some measurements to get your system dialed in. The same thing would happen if you bought an SDS, Haltech, TEC III, or whatever.

Sleeper I have gotten a couple of 1.8xx 60 foots with my drag radials, but the track has to be prepped right. I got the 3.90's and I am thru 1st and 2nd in a big hurry. The intercooler will help you a lot, and going to a bigger pump, and wiring it up with a heavy gauge wire on a relay with a good ground will help. YOu should be able to run 12 or so psi on the stock set-up, and I bet that bumps your trap speed up some. Let us know what you run.

You can put the pistons in your block, but if you mix and match engine parts, it would be a good idea to have the engine balanced when you get the machine work done. It was make a nice difference in smoothness. I would run a mild cam, there is a Schneider for sale on Ebay right now that is a nice street cam. You can also get it from MSA, it is the 274 duration, .480 lift. Add a nice header and exhaust and you should be good to go. The N42, just have a nice 3 angle valve job done and go from there.

Nice slip, intercool it. You have a 3 inch exhaust yet? If you don't there is plenty of power on the table for you.

I think you need to determine if it has hydraulic lifters or not. If you take the valve cover off, you should be able to tell if it is a solid or hydraulic. Look at the rocker arm, and the back side of it should have a spring on it that attached at the base of the pedastal that the rocker arm sits on. If it has a spring its a solid, no spring, hydraulic. Also solid lifter heads have a 17mm and 14mm bolt that you adjust the pedestal the rocker arm sits on. If the lifters are working properly I would leave it for now, but find a solid lifter P90. You won't know if they are working until you crank the engine up and listen. If you hear a bunch of clattering from the head, lifters are bad.

Yeah you just got to understand the way they work. They do some much international work and big time racing work that the little single purchaser doesn't get priority. They are also really busy towards the end of the month, so trying to get them to do anything then is crazy. I learned early on in dealing with my Z and building this engine not to expect anything to happen in a hurry, except money going out of my pocket. Everybody takes time to get their stuff done, its part of the business. Want fast, get a SBC. I am still waiting for God to give me patience. I keep praying for it and waiting for it to come.

Well there are some nice things about the JWT. They optimize the maps for 93 octane, instead of making them capatible with 87, like most factory cars come with, even turbo's. They can also move the rev limiter to different places, which I like, mine was moved to 7k. They can also remove it. They can also do things like run NOS, have multiple maps for different fuels, and in my case, add a half volt step into the MAF circuit to give me more power potential. I am going to look into letting them control my NOS eventually. I think that would make it really easy to have it come on via the TPS signal, and at a preset RPM, and turn off at a preset rpm as well. I think the multiple map capability at the flip of a switch is a really nice feature.

No carb or electrical changes required

If you have the rockers that match the cam, you should not have ti adjust the valves very often, when you start mixing and matching, then you have to adjust, that has been my experience anyway. You know I flog my car, in fact that is pretty much all I do with it, besides drive it to the track. Poor car, it has such a tough life. I haven't even had to adjust mine since the new cam installation.

Nice and Orange, and orange. Did I mention it was orange?

Man I love living over here in the woods with dirt roads and no smog cops.

I bet I do a valve adjustment once in a blue moon. That is more a fuction of RPM's then anything if you ask me. If you constantly flog your car and run it to redline, you may need to adjust them more frequently. I have gone more then a year without adjusting mine, and I don't worry about it. If they get really noisy, I will adjust them. 8)

Thats one of those old set-ups that uses one SU carb to fuel the car. Turbo or not, there is only so much air you can suck thru a 1 3/4 inch hole. Skip it and buy something more modern.

I need one of those fart alarms they sell.

I run the Peirburg from Cartech and it is a 200 LPH pump and it doesn't mind higer pressures. I have just swapped over to a 4 bar map and am having no problems. It was 20o bucks when I bought it. Walbro pumps tend to lose the ability to flow higher psi over time. I have never had one that lasted for a long time at high pressures.

Have you tried one? If not, then you should. I like mine, and while it is not a stand alone for sure, it works pretty well, and they can tune it with some simple measurements from the sensors, and a dyno pull with a wideband. I got one very early into the Cobra MAF changeover, and it took a few chip revisions to get me where I needed to be. No big deal. They have so much data on it now, that they are very close to dialed in right out of the box. A side benefit is not having to retune every time you change something, like say a cam. I have not had any issue's with my maf either, and the system has been used for well over 3.5 years. Actually I have had no problems with the system at all.

It is the injector connectors, to trigger the injector. Not an issue, I had to replace mine. Over time in a high heat environment, the originals harden, and won't slip on the new injector. I put new one's on mine, and never had a problem. Most on wiring harnesses that old are not in good shape anyway. If you went to a stand alone, you would have to buy new one's anyway.

I wonder if you could take the hydraulics out, and weld the head and redrill it and tap it for solids? I mean a half way decent machine shop should be able to handle that right?

When they go bad, there are no replacements available. Also I personally feel like the oil pressure won't keep them up in position properly when the oil gets really hot, and hence you lose a little performance due to the bleed down effect. All I know is this, a hydraulic cam does not make as much power as a solid in a V8, so I wouldn't run a hydraulic head on a datsun. I think anyone running one will find a power increase by going to the solid head, but thats just been my experience.

I was going to say, for 8 thousandths, I wouldn't bother, but you know.....

Nope, but Nissan has been known to do some funky stuff from time to time. Be thankful it is a solid lifter head, the hydraulic ones suck. I would run a P79 befire a hydraulic. Also you can run any head on the turbo engine, its just that the N and E series heads will probably bump your compression to high, and the P series heads were a high swirl design, which is better, IMO. Some people disagree with that statement, and we won't restart that drama, but in the end the P90 was designed to be a turbo head, and is the best choice.