Lockjaw

Finally I have someone who agree's with me and has seen the light. At least we know Datsun Dude's head is not in the sand. BWAHAHAHAHAHA

You will need the P90 head since it is cut for fuel injectors. Everything in the 240 engine except the pistons is already forged. If you can find a wrecked 280ZX turbo, that will simplify the process. You won't be able to run the kind of boost you want with that set-up, you will have to go to a stand alone and large injectors. You will also need a good hubrid turbo, the stock one won't cut it.

Now who's pouting????????? Damn everybody kiss and make-up.

Yes they sound nice, but are not able to recirculate.

Hey DAW, I will be in the short attention span group too.

I am going to hit mine witha 40 shot and go from there.

Hey if you say so.

What do you want to know then, specifically? The turbo is designed for a 2.0 liter engine, and putting it on a 2.8 is not going to be a wise move. Here's an example. Take my turbo, which has a stage V turbine. On a 2.0 liter DSM engine, you will be lucky to have full boost by 4500 rpms, and this would be described as a "laggy" turbo, ie not for street use. I talked to a guy from Team Nabr that has one. Well on my 2.8 liter engine, I have full boost by 3200 and it is anything but 'laggy". There is math and science and just a touch of voodoo that goes into turbo selection. Just because a mag says it is a great turbo, doesn't mean it is. You have to know what it flows, where it flows most efficiently, and where your engines flow falls into that data. Without that, you are guessing. If you want to know a good turbo to run, ask the people on the board with some fast times what they use/recommend. Also if you don't have it, Corky Bells book, Maximum Boost would be a good starting point for learning what you need to know.

I hate those clutch fans. They suck. Nice pics James.

I would check the basics before replacing everything. Where is your fuel pressure? A good manual should steer you in the right direction. Make sure you didn't melt a wire or something.

Care to explain? Yes, go back and read the article, its not a t3/t4. Second you guys need to get an understanding of what trim is. It is simply a ratio of the inducer to the exducer. Nothing more. Thats all I feel like typing.

If you can get it in the engine, the engine will get it out for you.

Its not big enough for a Z car.

I know why you have all those pic's. So you can put it back together if you take it apart. Man that looks sweet.

Well I filled up the bottle and got the jets for a 40hp shot, so I need to work on plumbing it now. Got the NOs for 2.99 a pound, which is a pretty good price. I got to work on my WG actuator again. It is not easily controllable. I hit 23 PSI last night on the interstate playing with a Yo Boy. Of course I left him like he was going backwards. HEHE I need to do something about a clutch, I don't feel like mine is hooking up completely. I am not seeing the RPM's climb ahead of the speedo, but it just feels like I am not hooking up totally.

You don't want radiator hose. You want as much hard pipe as possible. Any hose has the potential to expand, which is spool up time, not to mention radiator hose pops off easily. I have about 1 foot of hose total in my set-up. I also used several of those silicon turbonetics hump connections, and I used nitrile hose (1/8th to 1/4 inch thick not sure) which is very rigid for the other connections. Get good clamps too. I reccommend the one's Road Race Engineering sells, and I got my nitrile hose from them too. The heavy duty worm gear clamps they sell work very well. PVC sucks, and they have restrictions in the elbows.

I will have to let you know, I am not hooked up yet. I am in the manifold where the outlet to the turbo is. Unknown timing.

I think you need to have the fuel pressure set up so that it goes up in proportion to boost. Ie if you need 5 psi for a holley, then when you add one pound of boost, fuel pressure needs to be 6 psi. Personally, I would find another way, or do a draw thru.

Hey rags, the center to center on my adapter for the stock actuator is almost 3.4 inches. You may have a B housing if yours is not the same. Why don't you double check it. Let me know if I have what you need, I can send you pics.

I liked the Nissan one with the metal on the back. Just put a nice little bead of permatex ultra copper around the exhaust ports on both sides, let it sit for about 20 minutes, and then put it on. Should not have any problems then. Also might be a good idea to replace your lock washers. I had to do that on my turbo car, since I kept having bolts loosen up.

http://www.coximport.com/act/nissan.html#n280z Try this link. These people have cheap KYB struts too. I was looking at the bottom two for the 280ZX turbo, but since my flywheel is redrilled for a 300ZXTT, I could use either a 240mm or 250mm. Any 240mm one for a Z car will work. I can't decide wether I think 4 puck one is the way to go, or the other. ACT is what all the DSM guys like to use that I know, so I feel good about it. I like the idea of an auto since I could get some stall action going, and with a lock up overdrive, I could have the best of both worlds, without the boost falloff of a stick, or the launching issues. Not to mention the Starion trans is supposed to handle 500hp, and James seems to have good luck with his. I smoked a stock 300ZXTT disc early on, so Clark told me to try one from a 89 300ZXT, since it is stickier and it works alot better. I could always take my TT disc to automotive friction materials in town and have them make me something a little sticker then what I have now, which would probably also work. Those ACT ones are solid hub disc, so you know they will grab. Probably suck if I drove my car every day, but since I don't, I am not going to worry about it.

Sleeper I was going to put it where it had to make the bend to go thru the throttle body, my thought process being that since it is under so much pressure that the bend would give it something to bounce off of, which should help with distribution. At least that is my non engineering opinion. I have got to go get jets tomorrow and fill the bottle, and then plumb the whole thing up, and see what happens. I am afraid I am going to smoke my clutch when it hits, and word is the closer to the TB, the harder the hit. So I may be getting an ACT clutch or something soon. 299.99 for one that will hold 512 ft-lbs. Of course it is going to be an on - off switch. I may have to work on the Starion auto, I have a friend that should be able to hook my up on all the stuff, but I will have to wait for my divorce to settle before taking on that project.

I suck, I forgot all about it when I got home, I will send myself an email to remind me to do it tonight.

Scottie is right about the mandrel sections. I had to pick up two tight radius mandrels for my set-up, and they were 35 bucks each. Not to mention the one u bend I ruined by having the muffler shop try to expand it and it split, and the other one that was not quite right that I had to scrap. Yes I did my own work which saved me some money, but still. also you have to make sure your welds don't leak, if you use flux wire like I did. I think I had about 300 bucks in all my mandrel sections by the time I was done. Yes I have some left over, and that includes what I used for the downpipe and plumbing my MAF for the JWT set-up. Also consider the flow you lose. Each mandrel 90 bend will knock off 3% roughly, and I only have 5 bends in my entire intercooler plumbing. Cheap initially doesn't mean cheap by the time its done.

Well here's my problem with placing it close the the TB. NOS is under pressure of say 900 Psi, so if I place the flogger close to the TB, then that pretty much assures me that the NOS is going to shoot straight back to the back of the manifold, and load up those cylinders first. The Z manifolds are not the model of efficiency when it comes to even distribution. I have seen those things that go under the injectors, but I already have what I have, and don't want to go thru the hassle of those plus the extra plumbing. Plus I read a test on them and the little hoses tend to leak, so it is not fool proof, yet. I am not looking to run a ton of NOS anyway, I just want to have it there for these smart alec's that think they have a fast car, and a small shot will help cool my incoming air from the intercooler, so I may see more of a benefit then the 40 hp I plan on shooting at it. In addition, I am sure I am going to reach the limits of mu current clutch soon, so getting nutso with the NOS will only make that worse, not to mention the effect it will have on my trans. I need an auto.