Lockjaw

A p90 is the stock head on an L28et. Are you talking about putting it on an NA motor. If so, you may pick up a slight increase in power due to the square exhaust port, but not enough to make it worth the swap effort if you ask me. Now if you want to mill it some, then I would say it may be worth it.

Well you underestimate the power of pulling a u-turn and chasing the guy down. I bet he would have hauled ass in fear. Screw mustang guys. I took care of one for you at the track the other night. HIs little tag holder said "have you chased a mustang today" Mine should have said NOPE!!! I beat him by over a second thru the 1/4 mile, and I did not even run that good.

No he ran 8.40's but it was a long time ago, when there were not very many 1/4 mile tracks. He routinely turned it 7k plus, but got greedy and had this guy make an individual fogger set up for each runner of the sidedraft manifold, and squeezed it a little to hard. That car was wickedly fast for what it was, and as I said, I did not endorse the idea, but I have seen it done. That car had a huge crower cam in it, and it sounded some kind of wicked when you got on it. One of these days I am going to duplicate that engine, but not without shiming something.

My parents live in Windsor.

You are going to have to measure the wheels to figure out what it is. DO you know what the AR ratio's are on the housings? That will help determine spoolup, especially the turbine AR.

She can bend over my car any day.

Time for a new shaft. Get a stage III or V.

I had one before, they work great. They are big though. Clark at JWT likes them becuase you can put a light spring in them and use them to pull air from in front of the turbo to the T/B without having to go all thru the intercooler plumbing at vacuum. I forget what he calls it, but 300ZXTT's have them. I guess since the surface area is so large on the diaphram of that valve it works good. Supposed to make your car alot more responsive. Man I like it when I get a good deal on ebay.

Its still to small.

I did not have a heat shield on my engine for 5 plus years. Don't know if it hurt me much or not. It is on the car now, but next time I am getting something ceramic coated or something. I also have a heat shield for the compressor housing, and it is most definitely in the way. I got some header wrap and one of these days, I am going to get motivated and use it.

.488 lift, shaved 85 thou, no problems. Sorry but I have to disagree on the timing chain "slackness". You can take it up with the guides and tensioner, I have seen a milled 110 thou head put on a stock block with no shims, and it ran 8.40's in the 1/8th. You can slot the holes in the tensioner. NOT THAT I ENDORSE THAT IDEA. Shims are the proper way to do it.

I got turbo headbolts, I think, they may just be regular ones, 23 psi with no problems. I have also removed head bolts to replace/swap a cam and had water come up thru the bolt hole, although I don't have that problem with my current f54 blocks. Geez Scottie, were you asleep at the wheel or what? Head studs make it harder to remove the head. Leave them loose until you got the head on the block.

I think in some states that is against the law, so call the Fuzz on them if you find out who it was.

Care to share or are you going to make us all look it up too? Uhh, not work safe.

Damn yo, that is one lean looking wheel. HybridZ discount, I am all about discounts, and Alex does good work, I have seen it.

I scored an HKS racing one for 78 bucks shipped off ebay. Time for a new pipe.

I don't know, about 19 or 20 psi. Never let it be said that I won't throw some boost at my engine.

Well let's see. My last pass I had a 2.3 60 foot, spun so bad in first I had wheel hop, so I shortshifted into second, missed 3rd, blew the intercooler line in 4th, and ran a 14.2@92. I think I ran high 8's in the 1/8th mile with my stock turbo engine with J pipe in a 240, so you are doing ok.

That looks like blue rope to me, and that is so RICE. What a poser.

I got a 5 inch chrome tip, does that make me a ricer? Of course the inlet is 3 inches. But in my defense, I did not install it, my friend who did my first downpipe and exhaust did. I fixed his rattles too.

My next project is going to be 3.5 inch. I am glad that the DP is making a difference. I think the 3 inch mandrel system is the best bang for the buck on a turbo Z car. I like the sound, and I like the increased spool up speed. Get a good muffler, I have a Hooker Max flo, and it sounds good, but I also like the Walker Ultra Flow round one too, and it is easier to stick up in there. Max Flo was 50 bucks from Summit. You will really like the sound you get then. Put a cam in there for some real sounds.

Well the air dams, and rear wings helped the Z car, so I wouldn't say that constitutes rice. As for ricey things, I got to give you credit Mike, curb feelers rate right up there. My personal favorite though is those crown things. I mean do you think it means you are royalty by putting one of those in your beater car? And here is something else, don't put Japanese writing on your american car, that is really stupid, and it SUCKS. I think I need to build a really fast car, and then rice it out so people will think it is slow, and then spank that a$$. 8)

THIS SUCKS!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHA That was for Scottie. Actually there is a guy in Bham with a civic with an integra VTEC engine that runs NOS and has run as low as 12.1's in the 1/4 mile on slicks, but he is kind of inconsistent, and his MPH are not where a turbo car would be. I have a friend with a 1.6 DOHC Vtec in a Civic coupe with the drag kit, and he ran a 13.58 at 107 the other day. Stock motor making about 10 pounds of boost. We also have a guy with a turbo Type R integra running low 11's. So there are fast honda's out there, but by and large, most are not fast, and they have the ricer wings, tach with shift light, APC stickers, fart can, and neon. Most honda's I can beat thru the 1/4 mile in my stock 2000 Silverado with a 5.3 and an auto. Be careful or I will hurt some Z car drivers feelings too.

I ran 12.6xx's in a 3150 pound car with 307 corrected RWHP. Although Clark at JWT said I probably lost 20 hp due to no flow over the intercooler.

20 to 30 psi is a lot of boost to run, and it costs money to properly prep the motor to handle it. DSM or not. You also have to understand how hard that sort of boost level is on a turbo. That takes some insane shaft speeds to get there. FWIW.