Lockjaw

You could raise the fuel pressure, thats what I have had to do with my set-up. I run a 4 bar map, which takes my 420cc injectors to 550's. Are you a NABR member?

Why do you want an E88? What kind of intake are you looking for? If for SU's, the N36 I believe, from a 260 is supposed to be the best.

I think that is what Topend recommended, what you are running Scottie. And I don't want to hear stuff about them, just saying they recommend it. I used a 2 to 2.5 in transition hose off the turbo, and I have a 2.5 to 2.75 transition hose to go from the intercooler line to the 60mm t/b. Sleeper I ran my 12.65 pass on the small 2 inch lines, so they work, but there was some spread sheet running around that made a calculation from Maximum boost, and I think 2 inch is really getting on the small side. I would have to hunt to see if i could find it though. Something about the air getting to the speed of sound or something. Thats why I ran 2.5, didn't want to have any problems.

Could you flip the manifolds and move the turbo to the front passenger side? Just tossing out an idea.

I had a 60 ar on my rotomaster, which is a t4 copy, and it was slow to spool. Not sure what rpm, probably full boost at 4000rpms. I know two things. One, if I did not wind out second gear with my T5, I was off boost when I shifted to 3rd, and if I wanted to pass someone at 50 mph and downshifted into 3rd, I got moving good and hard a couple seconds AFTER I passed the car, which sucked. I have 172 CID. Let me repeat, it royally sucked. Once it was moving good, though it hauled ass, but until you got it there, it sucked. Now if you could turn the engine to 8000 rpms, it might not be so bad. I even had an external WG. I really needed nos to spool it. I don't think the large ar ones would spool, but that would depend on the turbine wheel.

I like a 3 inch exhaust and intercooler. The 3 inch mandrel is the only way to go, and it make a big difference. You need to run a nice heavy gauge wire to the fuel pump, and run it off a relay. Skip the starion IC, they suck. They have like insane amounts of pressure drop.

Either will work, although 2.5 would be my recommendation. It is harder to make fit of course, but worth the effort. I ran it on mine with the new intercooler, and I like it. I think I had 2 inch before. What are the inlet and outlet on the IC? I would match that, it would be crazy to go larger and then neck it down at the IC.

Will the stock 300ZX turbo manifolds not work?

I am there with ya on the Sr20det. It is just a great little engine, and yeah it may only be two liters, but it can make some wicked power. I bet sticking one in a 240 would be a piece of cake, and JWT can hook you up if you don't want to go stand alone. I saw a kid up at Steele here run high 12's at 119 with a stock SR20det in a 240sx, with a t3 compressor wheel in the stock turbo, a FMIC, and duct tape holding one of his hoses on. He was on regular street tires. Man hang a hybrid off that sucker, put some big injectors in it, and look out. Probably scare that dang GN engined 240.

Those are all to big. You need the .58 ar on the nissan engine if you run the P trim, you can run a .69 ar if you run the O trim. It is not so much a rule as much as it is previous info. But generally the larger the engine, the larger the AR. However if you have a known ar and you change series of turbo's, ie T3 to T4, then it would make sense to be a little more conservative on your ar selection, and for sure don't exceed what you are currently running, unless it is the .48 ar t3 housing, that one sucks.

Sounds like we are going to reach a consensus on the StealthZ guy. I found out a long time ago that just because someone does it one way, doesn't mean that is the right way. If everyone did that, we would never have new inventions. If you read his stuff, he puts a lot of crap in there like "estimated HP" etc. I mean you have it on a dyno, why estimate? If you don't want to be bugged by people, don't write stories and put them on the internet. Bottom line. Plus if you have a fast car, people with slow one's are going to ask you about them. I am guilty of that when I see someone out and about that has a fast car, I want to ask them about it. Except James. J/K

My soon to be ex's Altima makes racket in the top of the motor. I have heard that there is a chain rail on the top of the valve cover for the cams that sometimes breaks, and that could be your culprit. I checked hers, and it was not broken, but it is an easy check, just snatch the valve cover and see. I doubt the thing could throw that chain anyway.

Yeah I was going to say Chelsea. Damn that girl is not attractive, and you know what she is going to look like when she gets older. Besides could you imagine having Bill and Hillary as your inlaws? Hell I would have to have the secret service keep me from slapping the shit out of them.

I was thinking of mounting a fogger on the underside end tank of my IC, which would make it virtually invisible. Leaded race gas does leave a white residue on the tailpipe, my car is living proof since I always have some in the tank. I would be looking for a fuel T somewhere to sent the fuel to the solenoid. That would be the easiest tip off to find if you ask me. Braided stainless lines are also a tip off, but they can be covered with that flex loom stuff. I have fooled people into thinking my ZX had NOS since the turbo hits so hard, and it gets silly sideways with regular tires.

Watch out for a powerstroke, thats all I got to say. They can be modded to rock your world.

So when it the deadline? How much shorter are the runners then a regular manifold? Yeah that Stealth guy is something else. I remember I talked to him once, and told him what kind of boost I was running, and he about stroked out. I guess he thinks 18 psi is a lot of boost huh? Blah Blah, if I worked somewhere with a dyno, I can tell you this, if I said I made 400hp, I would make it, and my car would run like it had it.

I sent ATI an email inquiry, and will post what they say. I told them I needed a 3 grove pulley for my ZX. I don't care who makes it, I just want a good damper I can turn up without worrying about it breaking.

Can't put anything past you........lol ~BB~ Hey I may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night.

I was thinking of doing that James, now that you mention it.

Sparky, I am not sure if your info is true or not. That StealthZ guy has created some myth about one of the intake manifolds having a larger diameter runner, and then later came back and said the one he measured had been tweeked by someone. Now I am no genious, but I think I can look at a runner and tell if it has been ground on, versus a stock one. Makes me wonder how much he really knows. I bought a hone that I am going to use to hone my non-webbed intake manifolds runners out, so I am at least hoping to get rid of all the casting flash. I will probably use it on my head to, when the build engine and make it a 3 liter. I was also thinking about using some of those coatings like that flow coat stuff to try and improve airflow.

Yeah it tells me that mustang is fast.

There is a thread about this somewhere from recently. Real recent. Not sure where though.

You should look that Forced Performance for turbo upgrades, they are pretty cheap and wake those cars up. Lightening the flywheel helps (its really heavy), and a good exhaust system.

Stainless you can get from burns stainless, or regular mandrel I bought mine from Road Race Engineering. I would go 3 inch too. You can't go to large on a turbo exhaust.

I will send Jeff an email and see what he says.