Lockjaw

I have a 240SX TB. Had to get the aluminum spacer made, you know the usual.

It is pretty well documented, and not that bad, although it is easier for me to deal with if the car is in front of me instead of over the internet. You need the engine with all the fuel injection, ecu, wiring harness from the ecu, AFM, and the coil with ignitor. Get a factory manual, and have at it.

If you have webers, why not come up with a set of SU's, put stock needles in them, and then once you pass emisions put the webers back on. When it comes to emissions, one must get creative. I would suggest looking into a Z club and seeing if one is in your area. Then see if anyone has experience with the emissions stuff and cam swaps etc. Perhaps they would show you what you need to know so you can handle it yourself. Also, make sure you get your good cam back because the stock one is not going to run like a modified one.

The maxima tranny can handle about 200 hp, beyond that you need the conquest one if you want overdrive. I would go with the ZXT auto, and a stock turbo engine with a good exhaust system, like a 3 inch mandrel with a straight thru muffler. You should be able to run 8 to 9 psi with that set-up. You will need to do something with the stock pop off valve on the intake, and I would get a plug from the nissan dealer that goes into the intake manifold of a 300zx non turbo. I think the stock turbo fuel pump will work at these boost levels and you won't need an intercooler if you run super unleaded, at least I didn't here where we have 93 octane. You can get a replacement pump, but if a 240Z the return line is not big enough to handle the flow of a larger than stock pump. Get a boost gauge and a manual boost controller and don't go beyond 9 psi without octane boost or 110 leaded. Have fun with it and spank on some ricers.

You got to be kidding right? Usually only specialty stockers (topend, robello, JWT ) will have them on the shelf. Datsuns have more piston combinations which makes stocking them tough. Ross doesn't play about getting them out though.

If the lash pads are the same size as stock I could do it in about an hour, maybe less. They are probably taking forever because they forgot to stake the timing chain, or put the car on TDC first. Why not try advancing the cam and running some of that guarantee'd to pass emissions crap before going to all that expense?

My what a big TB you have.

Man it must suck to be only two miles away from Ross. Why don't they have anything like that over here? We have paved roads ( although I have driven on dirt ones that were smoother ), we have indoor plumbing (most of us ), and best of all, no tree huggin' granola eatin' hacky sackin'left wing environmentalist wacko's. What more could you ask for?

Norm covered the one area I left out, and was saving for later. I used to do the NA thing and had side drafts. I got tired of all the valve adjustments, and breaking pistons and rings, and swapped in a turbo engine. Left it stock for a couple years and then put a conquest intercooler in it. I never adjusted the valves, it made more power, and I never broke stuff. I went from having the power to beat a stock 5.0 to being able to annilate one. We can give you the formula, whether you follow it is up to you. Going this route is high maintenance, and you should be prepared for that as well. You need to go the P series head route. As Bob said, you should look for that thread and read it, it is probably just a couple pages back. It has ton's of info that are useful. That is the benefit of a forum like this. You can ask questions, and people who have done it answer and tell you what they found out. Saves you the time and expense of wasting your efforts in unproductive area's.

I used Ross pistons in my turbo engine, and they were cheaper than JE. Very robust piston, and they looked nice. They will likely get my business again when I build another engine. This one has been under 15 psi only long enough to get the boost raised to 15, and has gone for periods of time waiting on a turbo, currently on my third turbo. Probably 4 or 5 years old right now.

are we going to have stickers, clear tail lights, and a big bookshelf wing next?

Nice numbers there.

My impression that Norm was running more than 10 to 1 compression, but you could hunt for his info and find out. Norm also was running more gear than currently available in stock nissan diff's. Norm also had more displacement than 2.8 liters. Bob put alot of info out there, and he is right about your head. Just because a head can flow doesn't take into account whether or not it has a good combustion chamber design. The P series and that maxima head all have a superior chamber design which inhibits detonation, which is very beneficial when running lots of compression on pump pee water. One final thought. Who cares if you run mid 13's in an NA datsun if it breaks all the time? I have a 2.8 I am putting in my 260 with a P79 and a big cam an su's. After I get it broken in, I will let you know what it runs.

I like the plastic one from Nismo. My urothane one sort of disintegrated one day while I was driving, which was not fun.

If it only had a notch for each hole, it would have been better.

Lockjaw wants one.

3.95 each from delta cams, they are resurfaced, and I have a set in my car right now. Core is 3 bucks each.

Yeah, what he says. The numbers are positive the letters negative, 0 is straight up, and it is 3 degree's a hole.

Hey just pile your money up on the floor and set it on fire. I sent one of those loosers an email once telling him he ought to be ashamed of himself for taking advantage of people and asking him how he sleeps at night. Got no response. Anytime it is a private auction, be weary.

Sleeper I should have looked for a devil or something on that post. Ok James, just try not to break it until I get there, I would like to see the car go.

So how do you know what the thing did at 7k if it broke the tires loose? Or is the rpm that it occurs is now 2000 rpms higher? How about starting over and putting the numbers out there and the rpms so we can see what the actual results are? Sounds like you need to kick the dyno operator in his arse.

Does your e88 head have the combustion chambers like an e31? If so, that will work ok. If it is the big open chamber, you will be down on power compared to the P series head. Been there, done that.

The 240 rods won't work unless you run a different piston, but I have them in my turbo engine. 220 NA is going to take some work. You will likely have to go to a larger overbore than .020 over. I would use a P79 or P90 head also, and mill them about 85 thous, and that will get you the compression you need. What are you planning to use to fuel it? I would go with sidedrafts. For a cam, you will need something like the Isky L-490, Nissan L9, or equivalent. Crower makes a nice cam too, but I would have to get the part number of it from a friend. We had them grind it for us, and from 3500 rpms up, it pulls like a frieght train. My friend ran this crower cam on a stock 280zx flat top bottom end with a p79 head milled 110 thous, side drafts, header, and 4.08 gears and he was running 8.40's in the eighth.

We have had some debate on this one. JWT has a turbo cam now, although it is pricy. We have a couple of people running the Schneider turbo gtind from MSA auto, and TimZ is using the Isky L475 grind in his car and says it is the best one he has tried. I have a little crower I am going to be running to see what it does. I would get a billet cam. Not sure if Web can do that for you, they used to only do regrinds. Oh yeah, topend has some turbo cams too. I would think the JWT cam would be the way to go if cost is not an issue.

Ok, not turning over to me means when you turn the key, nothing happens. Like if your battery was dead. So does the engine turn over but won't start, or does it not turn over at all? I would make sure the engine is getting spark by pulling the high tension lead from the coil out of the distributor, and see if you get spark when you turn the engine over. Position the end close to some piece of metal and see if you see a spark. If you do, then you need to test a spark plug wire and make sure the spark is getting to the plug. If it is getting gas and has spark, it should start unless you hooked something up wrong during the swap process.