Lockjaw

Well you choke diameter is to small to do what you want to do, and I hate the f16 emulision tube. I like f11 much better. I would find the biggest choke that goes in the 45, then multiply the choke diameter by 4 to get your beginning main jet size. Add 60 to that for the air corrector. You will also have to go up at least one size on the pump jet, and probably the idle jet as well. For a cam, you probably want the L490 by isky. If you got to ask how expensive sunbelt is, you can't afford it. Trust me they be high. They are also slow. Find someone where you are locally that is a very good machinist, get a 3 angle valve job.

I want to know who could read that article, I couldn't. For 15k, I could build one heck of a bad ass turbo mustang. If it would hook, it would rock. The downside, I would then be one of the people I make fun of. Nothing is finer than spanking on a Mustang who thinks he is all that.

Those "Blowmasters" will be way to loud, and they don't flow very well anyway. A walker super turbo muffler is fairly quiet, I had a 3 inch cat back on my last truck, and it was quiet, but just slightly deeper than stock. You need a muffler with packing to be quiet. A straight thru is nice but louder. I have a Hooker 3 inch maxflow on my ZXT with 3 inch mandrel, and it is pretty quiet, doesn't drone on the interstate, but it talks to ya when you hit it. I hate that droning noise, and the best advice I could give you is to use the super turbo. I think it offers good flow and quietness.

Nope, stock goes out to 89mm.

Oh and I almost forgot, my turbo car will get sideways in 5th gear on certain sections of interstate around my house. Nothing quite as disconcerting as passing someone and giving it a little boost to move it along, and have your car want to do a 180. 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are absolutely useless on any kind of pavement if it is even damp. They say those Nitto drag radials get really good traction in the rain. May have to give them a shot one of these days. My truck is not much better. I can put it is tow haul mode, and when it shifts into second with the pumped up line pressure, man talk about spinning. I hate trucks in the rain.

Rainx has some windshield wiper solution that works pretty good and seems to kind of aid the beeding action of regular rainx. I have the silicon wipers on my silverado and they work well. Of course nothing works as well or lasts as long as the first pair that comes on your new vehicle. It is all down hill after that. Cleaning the wiper motor and greasing all that stuff with some good grease like synthetic makes a huge difference. They do tend to go kind of slow, but I guess when you are dealing with an old antique, well it just goes a little slower. I have found that my electric buffer and a clean lambs wool pad will do a nice job of getting rid of the haze on my windhield. Why scrub yourelf when you can let a machine do it for you.

That was a long time ago, and I am sure the performance advantage is not worth what it would cost to try and find one.

No I want to see holes in pistons. The HKS one is rumored to be reusable, why don't you try it and see. He could also have a slight warpage too. I decked my block and had my head true'd, and have not managed to blow anything, and I had some awful bouts with detonation getting it tuned. Of course I lift, but still....

Bent valves? Sounds to me like maybe you have had some piston the valve contact. What crane cam did you get? Do you know the spec's? I would also just do an eyeball check to see if the crane cam and the stock one are roughly the same, in other words, that there is not a lobe out of place. I am sure that is a long long shot.

Now I do not like drilling jets at all. When I bought my car that came with webers along time ago, the previous owner had done that. You completely loose the calibration. Jets are light enough to have someone stick them in a fedex and overnight them. Thats me though.

I like the good old factory nissan gasket. That is what I am using, and it is holding 23 psi. Other than that, I would get a metal HKS one.

Do you have room between the turbo and the exhaust manifold flange? If so, get a spacer and plumb it there.

I have always heard a tight lobe centerlibe made for a more choppy idle, and more topend power, but the last thing I read on the subject suggested perhaps that wasn't the case with the import engines. I have my own personal likes and dislikes when it comes to centerline, and like to stay around 110 on NA, and 112 or so on turbo. I am not an N42 fan, but it sounds like you have plenty of compression. I think you should go to a larger cam. I like billets personally, and am fond of crower cams. The stoutes normally aspirated Z I ever rode in had a crower cam, I had a regrind from crower that rocked, and I have 2 now, one for my turbo car, and one in the 260, and it hits like a MOFO. My buddy just got one a little bigger than mine,also a crower. I think they get 180 for a billet.

I am with the suggestion of checking plugs because you have an individual venturi for each cylinder. If you have a weber, I can get you in the ball park jetting wise, and then you can tweek it from there. Esssentially take the choke diameter times 4 and that is your main jet size. Add 60 and that is your air corrector size. Increasing the main jet adds more fuel, increasing the air corrector adds more air. Dropping the air corrector decreases air. I always tried to keep the spread close to 60 on mine. You would have to be way off to put a hole in a piston, and I would think the engine would not run properly to the point you would know. That is my opinion, so if some of you disagree with me, that is ok too. The absolute best way to tune it is to have an egt on each cylinder, but that is pricey, and not likely to be cost effective.

YOur TB is bigger than mine. Actually I think the 89 240sx throttle body is a bolt up with the spacer. I took the thottle deal off the stock one and bolted it straight on. Tps straight bolt on although it is in a different position.

Well there are always trade off's when going to a larger cam. You could advance it using the number 2 or 3 position on the sprocket. If your cam is a larger one, you should have added some compression. I got my engine running last night. Flat top ZX engine with a milled p79, round port header, su's, and a big crower cam. Once it is broken in, then I can give you some idea of what it will do. What helps with larger cams, besides compression is a light flywheel and 3.9's or steeper in the back. One of the things I haven't thrown out there yet is the Lobe separation angle on the cams. I was reading about that, and there may be some merit to having a little wider lobe separation angle. My crower is on a 110, but alot of the cams out there for a datsun engine are on 108 or 107. Usually all things being equal, the wider the love centerline, the better the idle quality. I am sure there are power charactoristics as well. What head are you running? How about engine spec's in general?

I like the intake manifold.

A CT26 toyota turbo? Probaby not more than a stock 280ZXT turbo. It can be upgraded. Will it bolt to the manifold? I have not ever thought to compare them.

If you want NOS, you can get someone to set you up a 6 fogger set-up on the cannon intake. As for dry, you have got to be nuts. I got paypal, just send me the money instead of Bob You need to decide what you want to do. Do you want a car that you have to drive it like you hate it to get 12's, or do you want one, that if done properly, you launch easy, walk it out of the hole and hammer it and run 12's. Do you want to break your **** all the time, or do you want to have a nice fuel injected car that anyone can drive, that has manners, and yet goes like stink when you hammer it? As for NOS, forget it on stock cast pistons. You are asking to break them, and really, you don't need alot of compression to really take advantage of NOS. Then finally, you have to ask yourself one more question. Do I want my car to be fast because I have a blue bottle? NOS is not cheap, and it is addictive. My friend had it on a fuel injected Datsun that ran mid 14's or so thru the 1/4 mile, and with NOS, it was brutal. Off the NOS, it was a pig. Once you experience the NOS, you won't like not using it. And at the risk of sounding rude, why does my opinion matter? You have to pay for it and deal with it not me. Go the turbo route.

I hate to say this, but I don't think comparing a datsun and a SBC is the same, nor would it be fair to compare a Vtec honda engine to a datsun. The cams in the datsun engines are so mild that increasing the lift and adding about 10 to 20 degree's would make a nice difference. Not to mention adding some more compression. Also the stock cam was not designed for max performance. It is a compromise design that has to take into account the "majority" of drivers, not to mention emissions and fuel economy standards. Also, don't forget warranty issue's as well. There is no way I am going to be conviced that the stock cam will make the same power as a larger one, all things being equal. There is always room for improvement.

If the stock engine is in good shape, I would leave it alone and spend the money on getting a hybrid turbo, good intercooler, and replacing the fuel pump. Get a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust system made, and use a straight thru muffler like a dynomax, maxflow or borla.

One thing you did not consider is the larger cam may make more power on the backside of the power curve than a stock one, hence the claim it pulls hard to 6k or whatever. I ran that cam in a 2.6 with a very early e88 head, header, sidedrafts, and I was spinning the engine to 7400 rpms. There is more to it than just what the ports flow. Anytime you keep the valve(s) open longer, you are going to get more air/fuel into the engine. The larger the cam, the more compression you need to make up for the loss of cylinder pressure from the greater valve overlap. Take a stock P79 ZX engine with 8.8 compression. Put a big cam in it with no other changes and the stock cam may in fact make more power due to the increased cylinder pressure from the shorter duration, and low overlap. In a 10 to 1 motor, the bigger cam will make more power.

A cam offers both, increased power, and it moves the power higher in the rev range, depending on the size of the cam. Someone like Timz or an engineer can give you a more technical explanation than I can. I would also say it would be possible to have a cam that would make more power than stock, and keep the same rev range, and it could make more power than stock at most if not all points in the rev range, and hold the power longer.

You know street racing is illegal don't you? Good kill though.