winstonusmc

The TPS should be the same, as it is just a switch for idle. I had to swap it out for an actual rheostat from a more modern Nissan to get Mrgasquirt working. Of course Megaquirt can also use a MAP sensor to do the same task as the TPS. Is there a coolant temp sensor that reads the same as the CHTS? I would have to look at the resistance from it vs. other sensors. Oil pump is different, but its work this far.

Just needs to move the wire from the one side to the other on the temp sensor. Looks good.

Post up your timing table.

No, noise would happen with any timing. I could post uP my timing curve, but its just one from the megasquirt map share. Sounds like you may be running too much timing.

Well they weren't free, but $40 is a good deal. Working on the drivers side seat install today and I noticed two issues. First issue was the seat rails were switched left to right on the stock seats. The difference, other than the "LH" and "RH" stamped on them is that the passenger rail doesn't slide as far back. This is the actual source of my legroom problems, not the stock seats. Second issue was the rear left seat mount on the floor was cracked and smashed in. Not sure why I didn't notice as I was sitting in the seat. I just bent it back up and clamped it in place to weld it. I didn't even catch my interior on fire. Haha. Now the seat almost sits how I want it, just need to add the correct amount of spacers to get the seat angle I want.

I found a decent set of CRX seats at the auto hobby shop a couple weeks ago. I have been needing a seat with an adjustable head rest so I can install harnesses in the car. With my driving, lap belts are not safe. I have always liked the CRX seat because of its bolstering. These don't have any tears on the seat, just fine tear on one headrest. Had to fab up a pretty elaborate adapter bracket, but it doesn't sit any higher than the stock seat. Also made it so the seat will slide back further than I can drive, because it can always be slid forward. Only problem is the seat belt gets pinched so it won't pull out while sitting in the seat. Not a problem with harnesses. Also put the suspension back together. Went with some Prothane steering bushings and steering shaft spacer thingy. Boy it was difficult to source steering boots, had to go with universal. I am pretty sure how the car sits with the 30mm drop in the front is how I want it.

I found a decent set of CRX seats at the auto hobby shop a couple weeks ago. I have been needing a seat with an adjustable head rest so I can install harnesses in the car. With my driving, lap belts are not safe. I have always liked the CRX seat because of its bolstering. These don't have any tears on the seat, just fine tear on one headrest. Had to fab up a pretty elaborate adapter bracket, but it doesn't sit any higher than the stock seat. Also made it so the seat will slide back further than I can drive, because it can always be slid forward. Only problem is the seat belt gets pinched so it won't pull out while sitting in the seat. Not a problem with harnesses.

My harbor freight helmet is the solar one and it seems to do good. I just forget to turn it back on after grinding and cutting, what a surprise when I strike the arc. Does the solar powered helmets have a battery?

This is my table. You could use my settings if you devide the "usec" by 5

I use MS3, so I am not sure what MS1 has. It is under igntion settings ->" noise filtering" for ms3.

I just wondrr if the wiring had anything to do with the faulty ECU or ignitor. Now you have a more reliable wiring job with fuses.

You have to figure what pulses your CAS is going to produce at any given RPM and add maybe 50% for error. I have the DIY wheel, which has 24-2. The windows are as wide as the spaces. This translated into 12-1 at the crank. Each window is 15 degrees of crank rotation. This is 417 micro seconds. I think I made it 800 just to be safe at idle. Then it tapers off as the RPMs increases. The stock CAS windows are 3 degrees if I remember correctly.

I had the same problem and it was solved by noise filtering. It was so bad the ECU would reset itself.I just figured out what size each pulse would be at a given RPM and added a little for error. I could post up my filter curve but its for the DIY wheel.

Well, the fender flares are done and the fenders have been cut for clearance. I redid the undercoat on the rear fender wells as well. I added 1 inch spacers to get the wheels to fill the fenders. Then when it was all done, I ripped apart the front suspension for a rebuild. New ball joints, bushings, tie rods, and lowering of the strut tubes. 30mm lower. Just look at that weld! I think I am getting better.

Got the guts to start installing the flares. I am going to cut out the excess like they are supposed to be. Now for some pictures. Check out those rotors, they are 8 months old.

done with the air dam install. The support frame turned out pretty good, but still needs more to keep the bottom of the dam from pushing back at freeway speed. I am just going to put a sheet of ABS from the lip all the way back to the engine crossmember. I might add more further back later too. There seems to be a few posts on Hybrid Z about improving the aerodynamics of these cars, so I am going to do a couple things. Once I mount all the little aero do-dads, I will paint the air dam to match the car. I also shaved the front bumper. I did OK on the welds and need to putty up the welds a little. I hit it up with some flat black for now. I will shave the rear bumper some time this week. It has a few more holes than the front, but its not as messed up as the front was. Now for the pics:

http://s253.photobucket.com/user/winstonusmc/media/IMG_20130528_205457_517_zpsd4609492.jpg.html][/url] Using a Thailand source boss kit with a unknown brand wheel. It was purchased in Okinawa and passes the "bend" test

A lot has happened since the last update. After I got the wideband hooked up, I couldnt get it to rev into boost without it leaning out. I traced it to the injector resistor being wired wrong. I fixed it and had another issue, it would randomly cut out and shoot huge fireballs out the tailpipe. I read some things online and turned on the noise filtering on the Megasquirt and got it to not cut out. I guess the wiring is a little more noisey than the Skyline was in Oki. Now the computer is tucked up under the dash where it will be perminently. I also installed an MSD tach adapter to get my tach working. The stock tack is off a little, it will read 6500 at 6000rpm. I had to wire the power to the tach from my internal ECU power or it would keep the car running after the key was turned off, that was a suprise when I took it to the PX, haha. The tune seems to be coming along, the fuel map seems to be working its way out. Its starting to looking like like all the other MS L28ET maps I have seen on the net. One thing I really really need is an intercooler. Blasting down the 15 freeway today at 100mph, boosting 8psi, check out my Air Intake Temps, 213*F, haha. It also doesnt help that the turbo had no intake pipe on it and its sucking in heated air from the exhaust mani. The injectors are at 50% duty at full boost/rpm right now, so I estimate with an intercooler I would be at 200hp at this boost level (8psi)

I like this car, next time I come there, it will be in my beast. I need to update my build thread.....

Well, spent all day fixing this harness. It now has proper fuses and relays to control the ECU, fuel pump, and all the solenoids and sensors in the bay. The injectors fire and the fuel pump primes and runs while cranking. There is still no spark. Wire is ran from pin 5 of the ecu straight to the igniter transistor. The coil has power and sparks when cheating the negative to ground but I can't get spark when cheating the igniter. There is nothing hooked up to the speed sensor, neutral switch, temp sender, but it should still spark. I figure if something was keeping the ECU from firing the spark, the injector wouldn't fire either. Its pointing at the ECU or igniter still. At least the harness is cleaner and more reliable.

Not yet, the car has been down for a while in leu of a suspension rebuild. I have been reading on using Volkswagen IACV valves. I have just been living with a low idle till warmup

I am in San Diego and have some experience. Make it worth the hour drive.

I am in San Diego and have some experience. Make it worth the hour drive.

That sound about right. The calculations are to get you near 100% at full load. Ihave mine tune that way. The calc fule is just a guide. mine is set for 100% fueling at around 4000rpm at 100% load. The when it goes into boost obviously more than 100%. With that pulse width, you be be very close to maxing them out, Max P/W at 6000rpm is 20ms.