winstonusmc

Its a 26 head/ itbs with a set of NEO valve covers ( no PCV ). Unfortunately, I didn't have an extra set of RB26 covers laying around. The current valve covers came off my R34 after I did an RB26 swap. This head was also installed on said R34, but it was shaved for higher compression. It had a pinging issue at lower RPMs so I switched it back to an un modified head. A lot of parts on this motor are spares I had while living in Japan. The block was really the only thing I had to buy. Power is modest, but it sounds cool. Never got it dyno'd because no dynos in Oki, well at least that they let anyone use anymore. And it was never installed in a street legal, street driven car.

This was the process for the velocity stacks.

Some of the auto Nissans use the same sender. I used a later 90's Nissan Cima sensor in my R33 Rb20 transmission. The thing about that particular car is that its a V8 with low gears, which works with my 3.56 gears. Silvias and some Laurels should have the same sensor too.

Got mostly everything all together. I needed to get it sealed up before I go back in cycle. The transmission will be all back together by the weekend. Just need to get a thermostat and seal up the oilpan. Here are some pics.

Http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/36415-pro-comp-gauges-installed/ about the same amount of work for the Maxima gauges. If you want stock looking guages, then stick with the stock tach and this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/37376-getting-your-early-240z-tachometer-working-with-an-msd-6-series-ignition/

I use a later model Maxima tach and speedo with my Megasquirt. It is driven by the tach out circuit on the MS3X board. The speedo is also providing an input as well to give me speed info that allows boost by gear. You can also run the Autometer 5 inch tachs, but I didnt want to spend the $500 for the matched set. Any later model tach will work with Megasquirt. With the correct tach adapter, the stock tach will work with Megasquirt. If you are using only one coil, then it doesnt matter, MS doesnt have to run the tach.

I use MS3/Ms3X, so my setup will be different. The DIY Autotune website has settings. With that trigger wheel, it will allow you to get rid of the distributer altogether. You can run any number of 6cyl wasted spark coilpacks or go coil on plug if you want. Of course running the factory distributer would be for the stock look. Make sure before you start, you disconnect the injectors and time it with a timing light. A remote starter switch is cheap from the local auto parts store and makes the intitial timing setting way easier. Dont turn tne distributor, but change the settings in Tunerstudio.

You should build the trigger to be VR. I have been using an 82 dizzy with VRin and a pull up resistor for about a year now. The optical input is an isolator for high power inputs from a coil, not a trigger wheel. You should look into the DIY trigger wheel which will allow more coil options in the future. Not bad for $25. There are setups for the stock disc in the FAQ page. But I recommend the DIY, its what I run. As for the ignrion circuit, run the stock one. I like the external ignition modules. There is a reason most OEMs use external ignition modules. It dissipates heat and puts the point of failure outside. You can grab many single channel modules in the junk yard for next to nothing.

Another update. Finally installed the crank and pistons. Cleaned up the head, but still need to pull the valves and lap the valve seats. I did that on my RB26 and the valve lash returned to stock, so I am going to do it on this head. Cleaning this motor has been quite a task due to a mud bath back in Oki. The ITBs still need some attention. They seem to be made of a different aluminum than the head because the head cleaned right up with simple green. The intake still is all corroded after much more scrubbing than the head. Might take some steel things in for a powder coat later, but after I leave the depot. Right now I am just getting the motor easier to store for a year. I really like the wrinkle valve cover paint. Might get them texture powder coated later like my L28 "Turbo" valve cover is.

The V3 board has the flyback circuit to handle the peak and hold injectors for use without a resistor pack. Might have to use both injector channels as the circuits may only be designed for up to four injectors. It will control the injectors the way they should.

The starter doesn't connect to the MS. It goes from the key to the starter. The MS detects startup through RPM.

Where will you be putting this coolant sensor? If you use the same hole from the CHTS, you have to pack it with grease to aid in heat transfer as the hole is a blind dry hole. I have been using the same old CHTS for a while, and it works fine.

I used a punch from the inside of the oil pan area. Same with the dipstick.

You need a more megasquirt friendly throttle sensor like a 240sx sensor. Or you could just use the MAP sensor to run enrichment. Good luck and post questions as you go.

I used bronze door hinge bushings from the "Help" section at auto zone. Just found the ones that fit in the shifter. I had to drill out the bushings for the pin though. It is tight and will never ever wear out.

Ground everything but the coolant temp, air temp, and throttle possition in the same place on the block. Runa a wire from everywhere on the DB37 connectors that is listed as a ground and tie them together and ground them on the block. Then ground all other sensors and coils and such to th block. The reason you ground to the block is the main power source of the car, the alternator, is grounded to the block. I have built quite a few OEM harnesses and they ground this way. The temp sensors and TPS ground through the ECU to get a better reference. Might need to ground the MAF/MAP through the ECU as well. Ground is important, but no need to go crazy like those stupid ground systems from 15 years ago. If you are worried about it, run a 4 or 8 gauge wire from the ECU grounding point on the harness to the battery, not like there isnt a 2 gauge wire for the starter on the block anyway. the only grounding points that go to the chassis are lights, radio, etc. Even some gauges should be grounded to the ECU, like tac and speedo. Seattlejester is correct about a 8/10 gauge wire from the battery to the chassis, or from the block to the chassis, same same.

If you can find an older Thermo housing from a 240 or 260, they have the fitting too. It just happens that you have the only engine that doesnt. Then you can just throw a "T" in the line on the heater hose.

Seems like a pretty good deal on that turbo. Just dont turn it up over 14psi. The turbine wheels like to snap off at higher boost levels. Those things make good power, about 300 on an RB. I need a new turbo, but I want mo powa. Still want liquid cooled though. I kept my SU coolant line setup from the L26, it has an extra coolant line looped around the back of the head and returns into the water neck near the thermostat. It kinda reminds me of later RB/SR coolant setups, but the coolant flows oposite.

As you were. I will upload my spark only map when I get home. It was an L26 running SU with Ford COP

You can use a boosted curve and adjust to not enter the positive pressure areas. The fuel curve has to be tailored to your engine. If you get a map from someone else, its wise to add some fuel over the entire map and trim down as you tune. You can find N/A ignition maps from stock ECUs online and you can adapt them to a Megasquirt map. On a side note for map sharing. With all the different setups with megasquirts, sharing an entire MSQ is never wise. The thing with Megasquirt is to learn. I have read books, many sites on the internet, and the MSextra website many times to figure it all out. Plug in maps to your tune and let it evolve. BTW, I have a spark only map on this forum somewhere.... Swapping out maps is as easy as loading MSQs or saving them. You can even have multiple ignition maps that can be switched with a toggle switch.

Looks good. I have been wanting to move my ECU somewhere like yours for a little while. I really like the idea of a flywheel trigger. Looking good!

I fabbed up this support that bolts into the under pan mounts. You can almost stand on it. I am going to put a plastic belly pan for the bottom.

If you Zip your msq and catalogs, they can be uploaded directly. Reading all these trigger setups from MS2 makes me glad I went with MS3. My setup was simple once the V3 board was setup for the optical sensors. Of course the headache was back when I was helping James setup the MS3 for the RB CAS. Once I got that setup done and stable, the L28 was easy. I still am going to move over to the crank wheel soon with almost three times the resolution and a stable crank signal. I think there is too much slop with cam based wheels due to gear slop or chain/belt play. I am glad to see that this tune is starting to come together. Keep it up and don't get discouraged.

I did see that. I was just showing how different the pulley was with the other L26/28ET pulleys. I will order the other bolt later. It just sucks I will have to shorten it.

Here are the pics of said pulley. This shows a crank depth of roughly 17mm. Think its not seated all the way? This is the space behind the trigger wheel. This is the L26 pulley with a crank depth of roughly 2.5mm. I dont feel like pulling the L28ET pulley off, but it was the same story. FYI, there are 5 bolts holding the trigger disc on. I estimate that the bolt has to be 15mm longer, thats 57mm of thread vs the 42mm on the L26/28 bolt.