winstonusmc

Finished up the fuel lines and hooked up the throttle pedal. I pressure tested the fuel system and checked for leaks. The Aeromotive regulator is set at 43 psi from the last vehicle I had it mounted to, so no adjustment needed. I just need to clean up the wiring and figure out how to get the intake air temp sensor in between the bolts on my throttle cable bracket. Might just leave it off considering its not needed with the MAF. Tomorrow I am going to change the oil and flush the coolant. Then fire it up.

You should rotate you injectors down so the wires will be under the rail. Here is mine with the linkage towers removed and the fuel rail mounts shaved.

The reason I disable O2 feedback is to minimize EGO correction. Or disable the VEAL in those areas of RPM. Of course since switching over to MAF, I have eliminated the need for VEAL. I just log the drive and produce a scatter plot removing all corrections at the end of the drive.

Save your current tune before you start. Turn off O2 feedback and accel enrichment if you can. You shouldn't have to take it easy like with a new map, just try to get most of the areas in the green. You will understand what I am talking about when you start. Adjust the settings in VEAL so it doesn't tune the high vacuum area, like during decel.

Re-clocked the throttle wheel and fabbed up a bracket for the cable. I will re-clock the cruise wheel when I feel like cruise control.

I figure out why the injector holes are drill off-center. It gives more room for the injector plugs. My plugs fit good even though the holes are in the center.

Worked on the fuel rail tonight. Used a 13/32" drill bit, which is 10.3mm. Drill all six holes and beveled the holes with a carbide burr that I had. It fits over the injectors fin without the o-rings.

Fabbed up a cold air intake. Been planning it for a while. I cut a little too much out of the fender, but I will add metal before I put the plate covering the hole in the fender well. I wanted to do this before I yank the engine to tidy up the engine bay. Installed the boost solenoid onto my car. It was pretty straight forward and reminded me of the solenoid used on the ProfecB that I had on my Skyline in Oki. Setup was pretyy simple and was covered on the DIYautotune website. I went the extra step and wired in a 2 pin plug to give it the finished look. I started out at 0% duty and increased by 10%, logging each run. The boost increased logarithmically until I stopped at 55%, where the boost settled in at 12.8psi. I need to tune the fuel and spark to make it a little safer at those boost levels. Seemed pretty responsive and smooth though. The injector duty cycle is getting towards 60% at 10.5afr at 12psi. I would say getting it up to 11.5afr would be better and let me know what the HP is at this boost level and duty cycle. Looking more towards 260-270hp now. now for some pictures. I installed a z32 MAF . I have been wanting to use MAF for a while and I wired the sensor up when I originally built the harness. All I did last night is put it in and enable it in the programming but not enable MAF fueling. I just needed to make sure it works. I need to fashion a boost leak checker so I can make sure there is no leaks before I start tuning it. I am going to use MAF/MAP load as this is what Nissan uses on most of the ECUs out there. It just uses expected airflow (rpm) devided by actual airflow to calculate load. Its kinda measuring efficiency in the airflow. I have had some issues with rough starts and rough running and misfires until it was warm. I have suspected some oil consumption issues for a while and I suspected the valve seals. I have read that the valve seals on these engines wear at about this timeframe and leak oil down into open valves while the engine is off. I pulled the head and took it in for a valve job, guides checked, and a mild surface. I took the opertunity to install my N42 manifold and a KA24 throttle body with a throttle cable. I also am fabbing up an o-ring fuel rail for the RB26 injectors. The throttle body is 10mm larger than the stock unit so I had to port the manifold. Here is a comparison of the manifold I had on the engine, which was the non-EGR 280zx version. Still need to finish up the fuel rail and install a throttle body spacer. The throttle cable still needs work and I have to rotate the throttle wheel to get it to face the correct direction. The Z32 MAF is working great and I have a pretty good tune working with MAF fueling. More to come......

Definitely neew to get the serial cable so you can test out the spark circuit. Are you using the internal igniter or an external one neer the coil? The ignition module could have fried, or even the coil.

When I installed poly bushings, I had to shave one side down to fit correctly. I couldn't get it to even fit around the rack. They are energy suspension.

I figure since I have to fab up rail mounts on my intake due to an over zealous shaving, no mounts, I would just fab one to begin with. Its going to be much cheaper than buying a set of injectors.

OK, yes I know that Pallnet makes an affordable rail, but I can't use it. I did buy one for the 11mm o-ring injectors and I found out my RB26 444cc injectors are 10.5mm. Guess I should have done research. I have already studied the construction of both the factory RB rail and the Pallnet rail. Two questions. First, why are the holes drilled off center? Is it to make the fuel flow smoother through the round bore of the rail? The factory rail is center. Second, is it totally necessary to step the injector bore in the rail? The stock rail is smooth on the injector bore and it doesn't even seem the o-ring goes up far enough to matter anyway. I am about to order a raw extrude rail from Ross. Not saying anything bad about available rails, as I was going to go with the Pallnet rail. This gives me the opportunity to have some fun with more fabricating. For those about to post it, yes I have searched. If there are topics on this, please post the link.

I doubt the stock wheel collapses in a crash either. The hub I use is the cheap Thai made hub, it would be the same as those billet adapters, no give. They do seem to be made from the cheap pot aluminum, might just break apart in a crash.

I have been running the metal cover that is under the rotor without a cap for a while. The rotor shaft just sticks out. Haven't had any issues. Been wanting to make one out fiberglass for a while.

U6 may be having some issues. Check its VCC input. You might be having voltage issue, I fried the 5v power supply and it would make 5v until it pulled a load. Did you check voltages in other areas with the processor installed? There are a few jumpers you could check.

Did you loop back the serial port as per the instructions? If it won't connect to tuner studio then its a problem with the serial port assembly.

I installed a z32 MAF last night. I have been wanting to use MAF for a while and I wired the sensor up when I originally built the harness. All I did last night is put it in and enable it in the programming but not enable MAF fueling. I just needed to make sure it works. I need to fashion a boost leak checker so I can make sure there is no leaks before I start tuning it. I am going to use MAF/MAP load as this is what Nissan uses on most of the ECUs out there. It just uses expected airflow (rpm) devided by actual airflow to calculate load. Its kinda measuring efficiency in the airflow.

My car is decently tuned to redline, but it still wants to pull fuel around 5500. I think I need to change my intake as it is the non turbo 280zx Mani. Got a partially shave n42 intake I need to install. My car is tuned for 11.5 AFR, might try 12 when I convert to MAF.

Not really sure which one would be any better considering that either one would match up to the head or the block. You might have to fudge the coolant passage seal with some RTV. One of the mechanics I knew in Okinawa said that if you use the 26 head gasket, all you had to do is put some RTV over the oil supply and the gasket would be over the hole and be enough to seal it.

But the reason why pole level works is that the window is aound one of the missing tooths and not the other. I would suppose your arrangement would work too. I dont see the advantage of pole level though except more flexibility on timing adjustments of sensor location and faster syncing.

Dont worry about the head bolt size as the alignment dowels are the same size. The front coolant passage is a different shape due to the VCT oil feed being in it on the RB25. I put an RB26 head on an older RB25 from the R32 and it bolted on. The 10mm head bolts will be strong enough to handle any power that the block and pistons can put out. Dont worry about the 1mm gap in the hole as the dowels will locate the head for install and the clamping force will hold it in place. Many people put the 25 head on the 30 block which is the same in reverse as to what you are doing. Some I have talked to have said you can simply have a plug machined for the oil passage and drive it into the hole to block the oil feed for the VCT. The coolant passage is close enough to not cause any leaks.

Can you post up your msq? I would like to compare it to mine.

Here is my setup on MS3, should be similar on MS2. It gives me about 13psi. I also calculated the boost curve vs duty in an excel graph. This is with stock turbo and the DIY solenoid.

Also knock may not be your problem either. The ECU isnt listening to knock at idle. As I recall with the S1 to S2 compatibility, it is the MAF to ECU. It really only affected the AFR about 1 point between the two on my car.