winstonusmc

My wheels are 16x8 +4 and they rub in the back with 225/50 tires. I think with the rears rolled, it would be fine.

Did you just update tuner studio with the new update? I just did but I haven't looked at it yet. Have you change the settings in the gauge yet, maybe it has another setting in designer mode.

This isn't my first Squirted car, had this system on a couple RB motors when I was in Japan http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=43359

The timing is spot on now, its the error that is caused by the missing tooth being too close to the ignition events. Causes errors from what Matt Cramer has said in this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102891-whod-be-interested-if-we-made-a-l28et-trigger-wheel/page-8

So the car run decent and I have been daily driving it recently. It does have a hesitation problem every once in a while that I am trying to track down. I noticed my trigger angle is wrong according to the DIY website, mine is 237 vs the recommended 355 or so. I figure when the guy before me put the engine together, he put the oil pump drive 3 teeth off, 24 teeth -> 18* cam -> 36* crank x 3 -> 108* off. I read that if this is wrong it can affect the timing accuracy.

What is your setup? ms2 ms3 ms3x? I really didn't have a base tune. I copied someone's ignition Map I found on the map sharing and let VE analize live do its thing on the fuel map with some manual adjusting. Of course that took a few tanks of gas to do.

I read some things online and turned on the noise filtering on the Megasquirt and got it to not cut out. I guess the wiring is a little more noisey than the Skyline was in Oki. Now the computer is tucked up under the dash where it will be perminently. I also installed an MSD tach adapter to get my tach working. The stock tach is off a little, it will read 6500 at 6000rpm. I had to wire the power to the tach from my internal ECU power or it would keep the car running after the key was turned off, that was a suprise when I took it to the store, haha. The tune seems to be coming along, the fuel map seems to be working its way out. Its starting to looking like like all the other MS L28ET maps I have seen on the net. One thing I really really need is an intercooler. Blasting down the 15 freeway today at 100mph, boosting 8psi, check out my Air Intake Temps, 213*F, haha. It also doesnt help that the turbo has no intake pipe on it and its sucking in heated air from the exhaust mani. The injectors are at 50% duty at full boost/rpm right now, so I estimate with an intercooler I would be at 200hp at this boost level (8psi). It also has a strange hump in the fuel map at 5000rpm/ 100% load. I also thing the stock fuel pump wire is too small, it gets a little warm. hell yeah 9.zip

I use the resistor because its running full sequencial from the MS3X. I want to put together a driver circuit to better run the peek and hold injectors, but the resistor seems to be fine for now. I use the Nissan recommended .77 ms dead time.

Finally had some time to troubleshoot the power problem. I ran a wire directly to the injector resistor and it ran better but had a strange shutdown problem at high load. When I decided to run a wire to the harness side of the resistor, I noticed that the power wire was wired into the wron pin on the plug. So essentially 1 injector was getting the 6 ohms and the other 5 were getting 12. I fixed the wiring and the fueling immediately change. Now, at 7 ms base pulswidth, it doesnt get over 100% fueling at full boost. I am generally pleased with the tune so far, and it will boost all the way out without issue now. It pushes 7psi till redline. The tune is really only tuned for full throttle right now above 4000rpm. I tried to pull the wastegate arm to tune it N/A, but it wants to boost, even though the wastegate is propped open. So here is my MSQ and datalog of the wierd shutdown poblem I am still having. hell yeah 4.zip

Figured out my problem. After troubleshooting for a while, I discovered my injector voltage was falling off linearly off idle. Not really sure why yet, but I ran a wire directly from the battery to the injector resistor for now. VE analyze live immediately started removing fuel over the entire map. Now the numbers somewhat look normal. I am going to adjust the base pulse width to get the 100% load to 100% base pulse width for now so I can see any gains with mods. I will post up the tune when it gets better. I only had a half an hour to check it out today after I fixed the injector power issue. Now I can tune all the way now.

It was 5 mil off the ears and 5 mil off the hub contact area. The center had to be widened as well. Not sure what the measurement was, I just measured the hub from the drum.

There is no noise filtering enabled.

took it out last night for about an hour to work on the fuel map. It doesnt seem to want to rev past 4000. It almost feels like a fuel cut, but the AFRs ar decent when it happens. This is the same ignition setup I had on my L26 and it revved all the way to redline. I think there might be a noise issue though. I didnt get much time to mess with it after I came home. Here is the tune and log file: 2013-02-25_21.34.24.zip

Or you can get the FWD maxima brackets and machine them down like I did. Cost me $80 to have them machined and I got the brackets free with the calipers at the yard, so about $200 for everything, including pads and rotors.

Finally got a wideband yesterday. I wasnt too far off on the fuel map. I earballed it at 55% requiered fuel, which was 13/1 AFR. So now its more like 50% on the idle are of the VE map. I cruised it around last night with the wastegate unhooked to get a good N/A tune and it did pretty good. Until my fan ate my radiator, not really sure how, but it sat really close. Its a 3 core with the stock 280ZX fan. It was almost touching it. Must have been a hard brake on the rubber mounts.The fuel map is still very rough right now.

Looks like you did the same brake upgrade I did. I got them of an 88 Maxima though and had the machining done to the bracket to get it to fit. It looks like the Maximas came with to sizes of rear disc, you have the mounting brackets for the larger rotor and I have the smaller brackets. I have been trying to figure this out so I can run the z31 300zx rotor, which looks like you need. I ran the 280zx rotor for now till I can get the bigger bracket. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107777-72-240z-in-san-diego/?p=1043172

Swapped the engine out on my 240z a couple weeks ago and have been setting up the MS3 for it. In my previous setup, I ran Spark only in this car to kinda get the bugs worked out, as switching back and forth wasnt too difficult. Once the other engine was in, I added the wiring for the injectors and other required sensors. Now for the specs: F54 Block/P90 head MS3/3x Ford Mustang COP running 2.0ms dwell Nissan 6 channel igniter 82 L28ET distributer running the DIY trigger wheel Zietronix type MAP sensor (50psi) 420A Chrysler IAT sensor (1/4 NPT) RB26 TPS (its what I had) RB26 444cc injectors w/ RB26 resistor Stock CHTS (temp sensor) External Walbro 255HP Future Expansion (wired up already): Idle valve Boost control MAF Right now I dont have a wideband, but it should be coming. It idles well, I tuned the fuel to get a smooth idle. I need a better strategy for idle control as the intake I have doesnt have any sort of PWM type valve. I will look into other valves in the future. I will post up the MSQ when it evloves a little more. now for pics:

I am running full sequential. The coils and igniter are wired up exactly like Nissan intended it. I posted the wiring diagram in the other thread. I had a hard time finding the Ford diagram though. One day I will draw up the diagram for my setup. Maybe I will just modify an RB26 diagram. The idle is good once it gets to operating temps. I am going to rumage threw the junkyard to try to find an idle valve, or just modify the RB one I have.

A simple screw valve from the N/A intake. You can see it plumbed in the last picture.

Swapped the engine out on my 240z a couple weeks ago and have been setting up the MS3 for it. In my previous setup, I ran Spark only in this car to kinda get the bugs worked out, as switching back and forth wasnt too difficult. Once the other engine was in, I added the wiring for the injectors and other required sensors. Now for the specs: F54 Block/P90 head MS3/3x Ford Mustang COP running 2.0ms dwell Nissan 6 channel igniter 82 L28ET distributer running the DIY trigger wheel Zietronix type MAP sensor (50psi) 420A Chrysler IAT sensor (1/4 NPT) RB26 TPS (its what I had) RB26 444cc injectors w/ RB26 resistor Stock CHTS (temp sensor) External Walbro 255HP MSD tach adapter P/N 8920 Future Expansion (wired up already): Idle valve Boost control MAF Right now I dont have a wideband, but it should be coming. It idles well, I tuned the fuel to get a smooth idle. I need a better strategy for idle control as the intake I have doesnt have any sort of PWM type valve. I will look into other valves in the future. I will post up the MSQ when it evloves a little more. now for pics:

This setup has morphed into an L28ET, time to start a new thread.........

Looking for one with the trigger wheel so I can get rid of my distributor all together. Also the sensor too.

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How much to make me one of those handy sensor mounts? I want to get rid of my distributor all together.

Mine is full sequencial though. I wired constant 12v to all six coils and the negative side is wired to the transistor unit. This Nissan diagram will show you the way its supposed to go.