winstonusmc

I like the ford coils, they are cheap and available everywhere. Although you still need to run some typ of igniter though, Ithink its worth it over the unclean install of some other coils. Performance coils are available everwhere for ford coils too. the biggest thing Ihad to do was noise filtering. Ihavent changed my tune recently because Ihave been driving it more than looking at a computer screen. Istill need to mess with the warmup, it still runs a little rough when cold. Yeah Ihave it tuned to 91 right now. Havent messed too much with the timing. Iam sure its a little off and more power could come from some timing adjustments. My local station does sell E85 though........ Idont really think Iwould have done anything differently from the beginning, but Iam going to gange some thing around soon with inputs and the way Iwant to control the idle up

Just trimmed it, seemed to take care of most of it. Now need to install the Moog tension rod bushings.

I think I am going to trim the valance. I just have to figure out how I am going to trim the plastic without it looking like ass.

I am running stock suspension. Its not lowered at all.

I want to keep the spacers to fill up the fenders. And for that link let me explane. 8 inch wheels are 203mm wide. With +4 offset that is 98mm from hub to edge. Add my 25mm spacer, thats 123mm from hub to edge. Take the 9.5 wheel, which is 241mm wide. With the -19 offset it is 140mm to edge. So the 9.5 would stick out 17mm more than mine.

How did you attach the EDIS wheel to your pulley? I would like to use the 36-1 wheel.

A realize the spacers do it, but its the same as a 17x9.5 with a +12 offset. Actually a little less. So if those guys that run the 17x9.5 on the front, my 16x8 -21 offset shouldn't be a problem.

I have heard of some having to cut the dam and moving it. This wouldn't be a problem, but its urethane. And after crunching the numbers on some of the 17" setups, my tires are smaller by about an inch of those setups.

Quick math gives me 24.8 which makes me think its too big. What would be a common size 16 tire that would give me more the diameter I would need? But I really don't want to buy new tires just yet.

I have searched a bit trying to find the reason my tires are hitting the front lip when I turn. I have RBR 16x8 +4 with 225/50 tires running a +25mm spacer. I figure its similar to running the RBR 17x9 wheels. So it obvious why it hits, but what is the solution? I have the ZG flares so I want to keep the spacers. The tension rod bushings have seen better days as well. I noticed the the rear of the tires do not get as close, leaving about an inch when turned. Could the bushings be that bad? If not would pulling the wheels back 3/4" reduce caster too much? I have also thought about increasing track with an S13 cross member and removing the spacer to try to combat this problem.

I wouldn't jump the gun yet. Try a known good coil first before you buy another blaster coil.

My issue is not related to the coil as the power system is completely different to the stock setup. I will take some logs. But my luck it will fire right up when I am recording.

I run the rear 280zx rotors with mine with no modifications. 88 bracket and calipers with only 5mm off each side.

I remeber I enabled noise filtering too. Me ECU would reset itself under high load, which was way worse than what is discussed here.

What type of coil are you running? Does it happen at a certain load or RPM in the data logs? I had a similar problem but it ended up being related to really dirty plugs. What encoder wheel are you running in your dizzy?

I use the VR circuit on the output of the dizzy, so you need that to interface with the optical sensor with the appropriate pull up resistor. When checking everything, make sure everything works before you try to fire it up. Use the output test mode to check the fuel pump, coil, and injector outputs before trying to crank the engine. When checking the injector outputs, use a mutlimeter and check just the plug so you don't dump fuel in your motor. I didn't use the relay board either, just did it the way Nissan does all there cars, with relays along side the engine harness. Wish I could help more, but ms3 has a few setup differences. From what it looks like, MS3 is more like a factory Nissan ECU. Good luck!

Same with me, I have the DIY wheel as well. I run the MS3 though. I would like to remedy this as well.

Mine does something similar. What trigger wheel do you run?

With the MS3X, why run wasted spark? I was thinking having a bung welded on the valve cover and run a hall sensor on the can gear. Not that it matters with the spark, but batch or wasted fire injection is, well, a waste of fuel. That's why OEMs have been getting better economy.

My engine tested like this, stock cam: From 1 -> 6 : 167 160 170 170 162 160

RB motors only have one or two upstream units and they don't care if they are unplugged.

The CX racing core I bought fits pretty good and it 27x11x3. Thats 27 inches from end of pipes. There is about an inch from it to the spring with an inch to the radiator support as well.

My stock turbo still builds boost with the waste gate arm unhooked. You also want 90 degrees on that arm because the tighter the angle, the more force it takes to open it.

I just bought a CX Racing intercooler for my 240z. I will post up how that works out.

Make sure with a voltmeter that the correct voltages are present at the T connector.