winstonusmc

The MAF does not have any type of temp sensor in it. Well not by conventional means as it measures air flow via the cooling effect on a hot resistor, kind of like a temp sensor but not. But its strange that the computer is doing this. Does consult have a timing indicator?

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? Those play hell with the timing when they go bad.

Yes, it is the same.

I did have my MS3 installed on a different engine before, an RB25/26 and it was setup for that. I really didnt mess with the pots on the MS3x board. Did you connect the pull up resistor on the MS3X board?

So what you are saying is there is no reason to have a cold air intake if you have an efficient enough intercooler? I am not an engineer, but it seemed like common sense. So can we see some examples of this in a calculation or formula. I am just trying to understand how a cold air inlet doesn't lower the temps out of the intercooler. I was just sharing my experience with my setup. No I didn't spend $1000 on my intercooler, but my intake temps are right at 90degrees at .9bar in Socal on the stock turbo. With the J-pipe it was around 215 sucking out from under the turbo, around 150~160 with CAI and the J-Pipe, 115 with a CX racing core and no CAI, and 90 with FMIC and CAI. Hard numbers for my setup.

Well the turbo was just suck air under the exhaust manifold. I really didn't log too many times without the cold air intake. And a intercooler will cool so much, so cooler air in equals cooler air out to a certain point.

I run the intake out of the smaller hole under my FMIC cold pipe. The intake temps are around 15 to 20 degrees above ambient at full boost. With no cold air intake, it was more like 30 to 40 above ambient.

Its not the fan clutch. I noticed in your pic how close your radiator was to your fan. This plastic fans flex as the air is pull rearward. Same thing happened in my car trying to use the larger 280zx fan. It is offset further forward. I mounted my old smaller 240z fan o the same clutch which is about an inch offset further away and didn't have an issue. My radiator is still jacked up but the JB weld is holding..... Those plastic fans just flex too much.

I run the exact settings as per the DIY auto tune website. My board is setup for the VR input with a 1k pull up to 5v on the main board and the onboard pull up on the MS3X board. Can you post up your settings for the Bosch idle valve? Just take a screen capture and post the pic.

Its easier just to run the R32 computer. The RB26 motors are all the same, just takes a little pin swapping on the ECU plug. Either that or find an aftermarket tuned ECU.

Those do not look moved. I moved my perches and the where the perch was left a slight indent where the weld had to be cut out. Also the new weld on the perch was closer to the taper of the perch.

Your engine bay looks awesome. Glad this thing is all squared away.

Or even the points themselves. Burned points up in a Jeep when the key was left on.

You might be able to put a different sensor in there if you put some type of liquid around it, maybe grease to help with heat transfer.

Maybe ballast resistor. Check your spark.

Have you tried changing your timing to change the emissions? Timing has a greater effect on emissions. Although 14.5 AFR gives best emissions. Try tweaking your timing, maybe 15

The other day while tuning my CHTS was reading about 220 and the coolant temp was normal. Came off the boost and the temps dropped and the coolant stayed the same.

The Z31 300z MAF might not be able to meter that much air. I know the only MAF that can handle that is the Z32 300z MAF. You could go standalone ECU and go a speed density system and eliminate the MAF. The clutch will have to be upgraded as well.

Thought I might as well put my map on here. Specs on my setup are as follows: MS3/MS3X L28ET F54/P90 head DIY CAS wheel RB26 TPS RB26 444cc injectors/ RB26 ballast resistors Chrysler 420A air intake temp sensor Zeitronix sourced MAP (50psi) L28ET CHTS Ford COP w/ RB25 igniter @2.0ms dwell DIY boost soleniod tuned to 13psi @ 55% duty cycle L28et_boost_12psi.zip The fuel map still needs cleaned up, its getting about 10.5afr at 12psi and 5000rpm

Installed the boost solenoid onto my car today. It was pretty straight forward and reminded me of the solenoid used on the ProfecB that I had on my Skyline in Oki. Setup was pretyy simple and was covered on the DIYautotune website. I went the extra step and wired in a 2 pin plug to give it the finished look. I started out at 0% duty and increased by 10%, logging each run. The boost increased logarithmically until I stopped at 55%, where the boost settled in at 12.8psi. I need to tune the fuel and spark to make it a little safer at those boost levels. Seemed pretty responsive and smooth though. The injector duty cycle is getting towards 60% at 10.5afr at 12psi. I would say getting it up to 11.5afr would be better and let me know what the HP is at this boost level and duty cycle. Looking more towards 260-270hp now. now for some pictures. Attached is my tune for those who want to take a peak. L28et_boost_12psi.zip

Sounds like the temp sensor has a different calibration than the CHTS. My car idles a little rough on warmup, bit the Megasquirt compensates by adjusting timing while cold, which bumps up idle. So, when are you going to cruise to SD? Haha. On a side note, boost controller soon.....

I run one 10 amp fuse for ignition, six coils. One 10 amp fuse for injectors, six low impedance. And one 10 amp for all the stuff that requires 12 v for sensors, like MAF, boost solenoid, CAS, and EGO. That's how Nissan does it from the factory.

Glad its running. Hope you get it driving good soon.

Dark green, its a 260z color, but mines a 240.

You can post up msq and datalog files zip format. I had a pretty bad noise issue that I discussed in one of the other threads and posted IP my MS3 settings. I noticed the ECU would just reset itself at certain RPMs. You should bypass the EDIS module and drive the coils directly with the MS2. There are some mods you would have to do, but the three circuits for wasted spark should be good to run with the LED circuits. Might be an issue with the EDIS module. My car idles happy at 14.7 and doesn't seem to mind as high as 15.5 before it gets cranky.