winstonusmc

Have you tried to cruise it around running VEAL? Just looked at your setup, your fuel curve looks close. I would mess with the required fuel to try to get the AFRs closer. I didnt start with a map from someone, I just copied an ignition MAP from the stock ECU and let VEAL do its thing. Its worth th $60 to register Tunerstudio, thats a tank of gas you will save in tuning. Also megalogviewer will do it for free.

The tach and speedo have been working good for about a week now. I setup the gear ratios so I can limit the boost in first gear. I run no boost controlling in first and full 14psi in 2-5. I have also messed with the MPG and some HP measurement, but just quick around the block kinda stuff. In-town MPG seems to be 16-20 MPG and havent taken it on the highway yet since I live deep within San Diego. My motor is leaning more towards a rebuild everyday and has become a smoker. So at startup, I have to wait till the plugs burn off the oil to really start beating on it. Attached is the quick datalog with VSS1 enabled with gears and power. It was a little erroneous due to going downhill but its cool to look at. 2014-02-02_19.59.36.zip

Internally, all of the ground pins are connected. Theain reason to connect sensor grounds to the ECU is so the sensors reference, or ground, are connected directly to the same point inside the ECU. If a sensor is connected outside on the block or a ground bus, there might be a mismatch in ground level through resistance in wiring or noise from other signals.

The sensor wire grounds are more for the sensors that use ground as a reference, as the temp and tps sensors. They have to have a pretty accurate ground to read correctly.

I installed Maxima gauges in my car to get a working tach and an electronic speedo. Last night I messed around with MPG gauge and made sure the VSS settings were spot on. Now just need to get it working on Shadow Dash.

The pistons are the N/A pistons and they are going to stay that way. I really dont want to get custom pistons made for it. The head has been shaved and a compression test on an RB26 was 190psi on the RB26 pistons.

Hooked up the speedo sensor today. I used exsisting wiring. Not really sure where or what the wires were supposed to go to, but it was two green wires hanging near the speed sensor. I just cut the plug under the dash for those green wires and spliced it into my guage harnes that I fabbed up. Now the speedo works pefectly. The error is about 2% with the stock gears and the black 17 tooth speedo gear. I really like how solid the speedo needle is. The only thing is there is no way to reset the trip, thinking about the 98-99 speedos as they are digital trip/odometer. Then I can just put a button somewhere.

Gauge install is done. Well, still have to put the new sensor in the transmission and run the wires. Here is a video of the function of the tach, it has the indicators on it. Yes, as some have pointed out, the speedo is crooked, but it can be adjusted. I was also able to find a better speed sensor with a closer gear, a Q45. It had the black gear on it and uses the same sensor as the S14/R33 sensor. My calculations is that the speedo will be 4% off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u66DyhLGY3w

I would keep the injector wires as you could always use those for whatever solenoids you want. Chop off the GM idle control wires. The apares would only be handy if you had the V3.0 board. If you are unsure, just coil them IP and leave them under the dash.

I just foot the bill on the MSA fans with the shroud. It works pretty well, but San Diego isn't as hot as your area.

Used LEDs for the back lighting. The gauges are mounted on plastic electrical box covers from Home Depot and glued to the origional gauge cups trimmed to fit.

Update, the correct speedo gear is not available for the 3.36 gears. Matter of fact, the only one that is available is the red gear. So I guess I need the 4.11 gears from the S12 200sx

There are currently 4 indicators that are in the tach and speedo gauges. The two turn signals are in the tach and the bright and brake malfunction lights are in the speedo. Don't really care about the brake malfunction light, so here is the solution, I presume these used to be something with the A/T or suspension modes. They were blank on this cluster. Had to open the holes up and super glue the other indicators.

Old drift car in Okinawa running this motor. The second is an 8k rpm rev http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOnaceXoJHs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APfgB3RAhSM

Reoriented the pickup and welded the bottom on the oil pan. Now gotta find a plug, or just never change the oil.

Bringing this thread up again. I decided to go with this setup due to my coil on plug design from Megasquirt not working with my factory tach. I also want the speed sensor input on the MS3 so it can calculate HP and MPG. The cluster is from a 95 era Maxima Transmission is later 280zx Speed sensor is from an R33 NA Skyline w/ red gear Tach is connected to MS3X Tach out Its all mocked up on my front seat now and both speedo and tach work. Tach is accurate and speedo is of by 81%, which is from the red gear is for 4.11 gears and the Z is 3.36. Need to get a yellow gear for the sensor now. I need to sort the output of the speedo to the VSS input of the MS3, couldn't get it to work on a Nissan before using the speed input on the ECU, but that was a while ago. http://youtu.be/jbHLYRAht4I

I have been collecting some parts for my new RB25NA project. After the motor is in my Z and tuned, it will be for sale with all the stuff needed to drop it into an S30 minus the ECU. The details: 08U block (RB25 from an R32 GTS25, no VTC) RB26 Head RB26 ITB w/ custom velocity stacks Megasquirt Version 3 FS5W71C transmission (the little one) This motor has already powered a car in this configuration. It was in a joint venture drift beater when I was stationed in Okinawa. We beat on it for a while. I tore it down an shipped it to San Diego with intentions to put it in my 240z, but decided to stay L-Series. Since the 200zr pans are long gone and when they do pop up on the forums they are $600, which is pure thievery, I decided to mod a stock pan. Hasn't been too terribly difficult thus far and I hope it doesn't leak. Haven't modded the pickup yet, but its going to be simple. In one of the picks, I show how the L Series and RB lean opposite directions, making the oil pans a mirror image of each other. Have to order a set of bearings now. Have been going back and forth about ACL bearings, anyone have an opinion?

I concure. The MS3x board is just a simple way to run all the extra inputs and outputs of the MS3 processor without having to mod the v3.0 board. I agree with sequential, but coupled with MAF, its a smooth engine.

That trigger wheel you linked too was too expensive for what it is. Yeah, just grind your wheel down. And on your question about the Ford coils, I like them a lot. cheap, clean, and no spark plug wires to deal with.

The hall sensor they sell on DIY Autotune should work fine for the 30-1 configuration on the 81 wheel. I want to run that configuration on my MS3/MS3x, I run Ford COP. I still want to run sequential, so I am looking into an actual cam sensor running off the cam gear, but that is for another thread. Right now, I am using the DIY optical trigger wheel and I think it could be improved upon.

I just wanted to run more of an OEM type setup. Its funny how different it is from MAP and MAF setups. Its like a retune is required every modification on the MAP setup.

went through a good deal of MAF tuning with a registered version of Mega Log View to give me pretty spiffy scatter plots to help in tuning. I created an excel spreadsheet to help in changes in the MAF curve. I used this thread on the MSExtra forum to help me out: http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=134&t=49504 I drove around today for about 45 minutes today to make a pretty good scatter plot. I am within 3% of AFR on the lower RPM and 2% up top. The car drives way better than it did with MAP and the part throttle cruising is like a factory car. Here is my MAF MSQ and the spiffy scatter plot from today showing my error %. Maf n62 f.zip Oh, for those that used my map for their base map, my timing was way too agressive, i took almost 6 degrees out in the upper portion due to some pinging.

I need a set of these for when I ever move back to Japan. In Japan an amber turn signal is required that is not integrated into the brakelight. A lot of US spec cars just use the backup lights with an amber bulb and a separate backup light added. Anyway, looks good BTW.

Sounds like a break in the wire somewhere.There is a plug under the carpet in the trunk area, did you check there? Is the fuse in the plug by the fuse box? BTW, "Always here" is a status, not the Name, you kinda confused me in the response until I wasnt looking at this post on my phone.

With the pump running check the voltage across the wires feeding the pump. If its less than battery, then check from battery ground to pump plug positive, should be close to baytery. Then check from battery ground to pump plug negative, should be close to zero. You do this while the pump is running to make sure the wires and ground can handle the load. If these voltages are good, then the problem is elsewhere.