winstonusmc

Also, a Megasquirt is a hobby ECU. It was meant for someone to have to be totally involved with their car. If you want to pay someone else to setup your car, then go with something else. The whole idea with plug in ECUs is that you can go with OEM reliability in the wiring. Unfortunately if you dont have the skills and patience to mess with wiring and learning the ins and outs of Megasquirt, then go with something else. The issues with drop in ECUs though is they are not flexible. Example is in my setup. I really dont have to worry about what engine is in the car, the MS3/3X can run almost anything I would want to throw in my Z, but I have the skill and experience to wire up anything and can set up the ECU. Just do yourself a favor and save and wait. Not talking down on Megasquirt, but it takes a lot of time, and in a hobby, time is fun.

Or you could just use the MS3 to run both and only spend $450 total on ECUs. My MS3/3X has run an RB25/26 and my L28

upload them as a zip file. The ground on the relay board is what your looking for. This is vice running it on engine ground out on the engine.

I always refer to OEM for wiring strategies. Most OEMs I have dealt with dont have any sort of breaker or fuse in between the battery and the starter. They pull a lot of amps to start the car. The likeliness of that circuit causing any issues is small anyway. As fare as a fuse for the alternator, some later nissans I have worked on use a fuse (fusable link) for that at 80+ amps. And that is to charge the battery. The rest of the circuits are connected to the alternator directly. And now for an equally crude drawing:

Lights can all be grounded to a place close to the lights. OEMs like to tie them all to one point, like for headlights, they are all bolted near the radiator support. I think its because fenders and such dont offer as good of ground due they are bolted across painted surfaces. The rear lights are also grounded in the hatch area. So you can make a ground wire that connects all the lights and runs to a common point close to the lights like OEM, or just ground each light next to the light. Just make sure you run a good ground strap to the battery from the chassis.I remember I did a Jeep with a Chevy truck painless harness and most of the marker lights were one wire. They just pull their ground from the body of the light asdsembly itself, bad design IMO because once corrosion gets in there, the light becomes problematic.

In my experience with Megasquirt, there is work arounds with the DB37 and its lack of gauge to handle power. If you notice how many grounds there are, since most relays are ground activated. The two pins for each bank of injector are tied together inside the board and go through two pins, I would assume, to handle the power of actuating up to four injectors. So with that said, just tie both pins together after the DB37 connector and branch them out at the injectors. The DB connectors really my only complaint about Megasquirt, but thats my opinion.

Education will be your key to cheapness. The more you do yourself, the less you have to pay someone else. This world is either you know a lot or you pay a lot.

What company is the body harness from? I know painless doesnt normally have circuits for EFI. The IGN should be all you need to run to the engine harness. My engine harness gets its power directly from the starter lug, grounds on the engine, and has relays that power everything on via an IGN signal. The alternator isnt an engine function and normally is part of the body harness.

The firewall opens up to the cowl, so you could just drill a hole and put a nut on the back. Your hole may have disappeared with rust repair, or it may have been covered up with body putty. Take the cowl cover off and have a look.

Lead free is more for applications where you might have water going through it like pipes. Stuff that has RoHS on it is lead free so when we chuck it in the trash can, it doesn't pollute. The problem with it is the joints are rather week and it doesn't like to stick. I dont buy the RoHS stuff if I can help it. With lead based solder, just dont eat, drink, or smoke while soldering and wash your hands after and you will be fine.

I fabbed up this with 1 inch angle steel from Home Depot. I had to go with a different setup due to the Civic size battery

You can definitely tune the idle afr by ear. Use many carb methods to tune the idle. Just lean it till it stumble then richen it till smooth. Of course, make sure you time it correctly first. I got my L28ET around 13.5 that way without a wide band.

You have to wrap the end of the hose tightly with electrical tape and cut it off with a Dremel cutoff disk.

With a lot of these questions, you need to go to the MSExtra forum . I skipped all the batch fuel setup and went straight to the the sequential setup where there is no question about fueling, one squirt per cycle, easy. I didn't mess with Autotune for warm up. Just got a good base tune while warm and figured out the best AFR during warmup to what the motor liked and sounded the best and tapered the enrichment till about 160 degrees. 70c? Not sure of that conversion. I run about 13 to 1 AFR till warmup. Of course since then I have switched to MAF and most of the tuning challenges seem to have disappeared. Its like speed density is a delicate balance of many variables to calculate fueling and MAF is just measuring air, that's it.

With megasquirt, there is no need for the HEI module anymore. The on board BIP373 transistor can handle driving a single coil. I really see no reason why MS2 shouldn't control the spark on a modern setup as the the timing control is superior to a mechanical/vacuum advance. There are a few other threads about locking the distributor and driving all the timing with the MS2. Ultimately, if its the wiring that is keeping you from going from fuel only to controlling both, its really just one more wire (and some ineternal mods). I think you have some confusion on ignition modules or what some call ignitors. The pickup in the distributor tells the ecu or MS2 where the crank is located. In turn, through tables and calculations, the ECU decides when to fire the spark. The processor in the ecu can't drive a coil directly due to current limitations, so it uses a series of transistors to amplify the current handling. The last transistor in this series is the one that is attached to the coil, or the ignition module. I use a nissan unit designed for DIS or coil on plug. The internal BIP373 chip can do it as well. The instructions for a HEI is really left over before they implemented the V3.0 boards. Now it has "native" support without the extra stuff like HEI or even EDIS if you wanted to go MS3/MS3X route.

Is this a new MS2 build from DIY? How is you ign settings inside? I am pretty sure the V3.57 board has a jumper for a pull up for ign in.

Can you post a screen shot of your Ignition settings in tuner studio? I have used a 330ohm resistor in conjunction with Vcc (5V) on a few different Nissan CAS with great success. I think it would be a better signal because the 12v isn't regulated so its more like 10v-14v. Vcc is always 5v. I use the DIY wheel in my CAS, so my settings are a little different.

I also got tire of my ratchet strap battery tie down and fashioned up a center battery hold down. I could have went with the original battery hold down, but it was a poor design that has problems with arcing on the battery terminals. Besides, I don't have a stock size battery anyway.

I painted the engine bay recently and dropped the L28ET back in due to me having to leave San Diego, Sad Matthew is Sad. In the process of trying to fit the RB25, I started selling my L28 setup. The coils were the first to sell. Almost had the motor when I figured the RB25 header was going to be too much work to get it to clear everything, so I decided to put the L28 back in. I had to tell the dude that was looking at my motor that I cant sell it. I dropped the L28 back in and reinstalled everything. I was just going to go back to a normal single coil setup with a distributer to give me ease of install, but..............I cant go back to a distributer due to certain pride issues and the lack of proper dwell time at higher RPMs. The stock coil sucks anyway. I decided to go with the famous "Buick" coil swap. I put it in quotes because I have some history working on my Dads Oldsmobile 3.8, which uses that coil, along with about 100,000 other cars of that era. I like it because it has normal blade connections on the bottom that makes it easy to install. That in combination with a standard RB/VG ingnitor pack makes for some hot looking sparks.

I have seen those used.

Use a Honda resistor pack, it has heat sinks and is available at every junk yard.

that is an oil pressure dummy light switch. On my setup, I bought an NPT to AN3 adapter and retapped the origional T fitting. The origional T fitting is tapped for metric pipe threads. I just drill it out and tapped it and made sure it didnt leak. The AN3 fitting on the turbo size is available everywhere as its a standard T3. Dont buy a cheap one as the aluminum will deform and leak. I cant remember the length I used, but I wish I would have gotten 6 inches shorter.

The other thing is which flywheel you have. There were two different diameters of the 71b/c transmissions. 225mm or 240mm. The 225mm pressure plates have 6 bolts and the 240mm have 9 bolts holding them to the flywheel. Either flywheel will work on any setup. I have a 225mm flywheel on a 280zx 5spd, which came with either the 225mm or the 240mm depending on options (2+2, etc). Just pop the starter off and count the bolts.

If you don't mind me asking, how much? Wouldn't mind some more compression, maybe even on an RB30

Pretty cool setup. I am going with something similar. What gearing are you going with? Stock gearing is going to suck. I had 4.11 on my RB25, and I wish it was 4.3. Now with my Z rocking the 3.5, its going to suck. Going to run filters?