winstonusmc

Been a while since I worked on my RB25 ITB project. Back in Japan, I just fabbed up a shelf that the original RB26 throttle assembly sat on. It really took away from the look of the velocity stacks and I wanted something better. When I was in San Diego, I got to work on some old bikes and their multiple carb setups. I figure that I could do something similar on the RB throttle setup. It uses a bolt to adjust the linkage in between the three sets. Just fabbed up on link for now to see the proof of concept. Needs cleaned up and coated. Here you go: Pictures from the fab work: Decided to go full throttle quadrant. Just cut it off the stock RB26 throttle linkage. It looks eccentric, starts off at about 30mm radius up to 32mm radius at full throttle. This is before I put the adjuster stop on it. Here is it completed on the front. I supported the adjusted stop on the wheel side due to how far it was from one side to the other. Completed view, just need to fab up a cable stay for the throttle cable.

My sensor idles at about 1.4 volts, but I use a 350z sensor. seems about right for you for idle. Its not a linear sensor. Its a logarithmic curve. Make sure your MAF is correct too. J60 series 1 (igniter on coils) E60 for Series 2 (no igniter). They do make a difference. Also 11 afr is correct for an RB25.

Looking to get some of my things on the Z redone and there really isn't anywhere local that electoplates. I am looking at the good zinc dichromate stuff that gives the finish that we all love. I want to have the hood hinges and ebrake assembly, amongst other things that can't be taken apart to paint with something. What is a good online place? Please dont just Google it and display the results. Who has used a place and gotten good affordable results? Thank you.

Stock diff for now. 3.36 I think. Feels good with the turbo motor.

Pics of the rear suspension setup. Getting ready for powder coating. Installed the newly powder coated stuff. Strut tubes welded. Got impatient and welded them up with flux core. I figure with my little 120v welder, that amperage was going to be an issue. With C25, the weld would be much cooler, and I considered C100. Decided to see what inner shield would give me with the full hotness that comes with it. Here is the struts screwed all the way in with a jack stand set to the exact height of the hub to simulate the wheel sitting on the ground. Keep in mind these are new springs with no settling. Just sitting on the suspension. No gas tank yet, diff and axles are out, and the brakes arent installed yet. Open R180 Finally got the combo correct with the rear brake upgrade. In the beginning I was only able to pick up a set of '88 Maxima rear calipers and brackets. That year, the Maxima downgraded the size of rotor from 11.4 to 10.2, good for a front heavy FWD but bad for a nearly 50/50 car like the 240z. I have been looking for a way to run Z31 rotors all around since thats what I originally bought for the Modern Motorsport brackets that never came. I found another company that offered the bracket for the Maxima calipers called California Datsun LLC, formerly Datsun Parts LLC. I ordered them but didnt read the fine print, used the older caliper for the 11.2 inch rotor. Anyhow, I had a coworker order me a set of Maxima calipers in exchange for some work and now it is almost complete. Should correct the bias issues with the Toyota calipers and should allow the larger S12W caliper to be balanced with the rear. Used G2 caliper paint, awesome stuff. Check out the rust from using cheap air dry VHT paint.

Long time since updates, so I will split it up in between posts. I had to ship the car from San Diego to my hometown in West Virginia until I got established in my new home. While I was driving across the country, my brother call me and informed me that after my dad picked up my car from the shipper, Dad toasted the clutch. My brother tried to back it out of his driveway and it wouldnt move. The clutch was not up to par with the turbo motor anyway. It was the smaller 225mm (think KA24DE size ). I have been planning the 240mm swap (-SR20DET, RB25DET etc) anyway so this was the excuse. While in hotels in random America on the way to West Virginia I priced an OEM spec Exedy clutch from Amazon and the flywheel from Autozone. All parts purchased for around $215. Me and my brother swapped it out when I was home on leave and then just left it in my Grandma's barn till I could drive it to North Carolina. Me and the fam doive up to West Virginia to pick up the Z and drive the beast down here, 550 miles haha. The weather wasnt too great and it was cold, but we made it. It was snowing the whole way through West Virginia and I only got about 18mpg. I quickly washed it and put the front wheel spacers and the air dam back on. I also installed a set of ST sway bars on it, which are 25mm in the front (stock 18mm) and 19mm in the rear (stock none). I worked on the tune. I had some setting issue with the injector dead time. Whenever the fan kicked on, it pulled the voltage down. This is normally compensated by boosting the dead time, but setting wasnt correct, so it went rich when the fan was on. This caused inconsistent AFRs when the fan was on and off. When I fixed it, I was about halfway through the tune when I decided to ditch the Z32 MAF. I wanted to get rid of the Z32 MAF for a while, old technology isn't good enough for me. Sorry to all the guys who swear by these MAFs, but they are rapidly aging and need some TLC sometimes to keep them working, by the order of cutting them open and freshening up the solder on the connections. The Z33, G35 MAF is on damn near everything now days and they are pretty cheap on eBay, $30. Now granted they cant flow what the Z32 can, ~400hp, but when is an L28ET going to see that? Now this graph I am posting is MAF volts vs error, so hope you all can figure it out. Just kinda blur your eyes to see the general idea of the tune. Z32 Z33

you do need to add some stuff in the proto area. I cheated and went MS3x, it has all the necesary hardware already installed.

MSD does sell an off the shelf solution that I used before I switched ton a Maxima setup.

I painted my bay a while ago, it was three shades of green. Nothing like gold though..... Looks good.

Got it from a buddy's parts car. It was purchased in Japan and passes the push test. Not sure of the brand, but it is made in China.

Well, I would, but I seem to be maxing out my MAF. This should be impossible with the stock turbo. Not sure why because the VQ35 MAF should be good for 400hp, which my car is not even close. I need to check my wiring and see why its off, not sure yet.

I wired my MAF before I switched from MAP. Just set up a Generic sensor and view it in a guage to see if its properly wired. My MAF is wired into "SpareADC" with no pullup, just directly wired. On the Q45 MAF, there are three wires, 12v, Signal, ground. Should be simple to wire. Could have a messed up MAF. Quick edit: I have an L28ET on a 240z and currently run a G35/350Z sensor but have run a 300zx "N62" sensor in the past.

$20 is a good price. I think they are over$30 from MSA. I only had to buy one.

I had a level 3 on one side. Just used a combo of washers, large nuts, O2 sensor bungs to use the stock threaded section to get it out. The other side, not so lucky. Ended up cutting the pin and pressing it out of the strut housing. That was a very loud process of popping while on the press. I noticed after getting the pin out that where the retaining pin set, it was a little mushroomed out where the pin had been over tightened. I had to kind of grind the pin down in that area to get it to go back in. Then I took PB Blaster and soaked the strut housing till the pins easily slide in and out. Now just need some gas for my welder so I can finish the strut install.

Have you figured out what you want to do about the speedo sensor? I verified through the your wiring that it doesnt have a speed sensor like I was talking about earlier. That gauage looks good though. I bet the autometer gauge might have a way to drive it via a coupl magnets on the driveshaft or something.

Too bad Nissan changed the flange in between the RB25 and 26. My ITB setup is on a 26 head though. Boy were the velocity stacks expensive though.

Worked on your harness a good bit today. I will make a list of things that will need to be done on the car to get a complete install. The check engine light wire is there with the necessary power wire, all you need is a light from an auto store. Also, the "check" wire from the diagnostics port is labeled with the necessary power wire, which will allow the check engine light to blink the codes when connected. All you need for that is a momentary button to connect the two wires. Things that are done: 1) removed all unnecessary wires (ABS, A/C, windshield wiper) 2) labeled all under dash wires (diagnostics, check engine light, tach, ign on, temp sensor, fuel pump, start signal) 3) separated knock sensor, backup light, and alternator connectors from lower harness Things yet to do: 1) wire up 3 relays with fuses for power 2) change temp sensor connector to work with the L24/26/28 sensor 3) run a power wire for everything that connects to the battery lug on starter (hidden in harness) 4) re wrap some of the untouched harness for looks

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I ran the Coby header from New Zealand in an S14, which some have used in an S30 with a little adjustment. That header you are talking about has similar design and price.

What header you going with? I tried the Fujitsubo header and there is nowhere near the room. I am thinking just fabbing one up. Not long before I attempt the RB25 install again. Had to put it on hold when I left San Diego. Thats ok, got to drive my Z 500 miles on MS3 and L28ET power. Fun times.

I used the Skyline igniter from the RB25

There are Nissan 6 channel igniters available in 300zx, Maximas, and Infiniti J and I 30.

Just find an empty bolt hole on the side of the block. I know there are a couple M6 size holes on the side of the block that are unused. My engine is the F54 block and it has a factory knock located on Cyl 5 for obvious reasons.

Can you add MAF curves in there?

That looks about right. I would just break out the trusty multimeter to pin out the ign switch. you got power in, acc, ign on , start. There may be two ign wires, one will interupt when in the start posistion. I dont have my car here, or I would just pin it out for you.