winstonusmc

Done a few RB swaps in my day, you always keep the lower harness from the car. I am about to RB swap my Z, but none of my wiring info will help, full Megasquirt with ITBs and velocity stacks. Only 1 stock sensor, the cam sensor.

the Delrin mounts I had were custom mounts machined from solid delrin stock that a buddy of mine made for us. He said they have the same characteristics as aluminum, so an aluminum puck style mount would be the same. Not sure if they are actually available for purchase, but aluminum is available though.

The neutral signal is not needed and the reverse doesn't go into the ECU. You can use the lower harness from your current car, just swap over the alternator plug with the one for the RB. The mid harness on the RB has the oil pressure and knock. Just leave the oil pressure unhooked and thread the Z oil pressure sensor into the RB and plug it in with the Z wiring. I always said, lower harness comes from the car, not the motor.

I ran solid motor mounts on my drift car, solid delrin. RB motors are smooth running and are pretty smooth with solid mounts.

Zip it first. Try going off someone else's tune first. Wish I could help, but I have been sequential from the beginning. Less guessing when its one squirt per cylinder, haha.

I see you are located in San Diego. I could drop in and see your setup in the evening time. I wired my Setup about a year and a half ago so its a little foggy. I wired up the high res side (12-1) side goes to pin 24 of the V3 board with a pullup installed on the project area. The low res is wired into pin 32 (cam_in) of the MS3X with the pullup installed on JP7. I know the low res and high res are backwards on the DIY trigger wheel, but it outlines on the install instructions on their website. I would have to look, but I am pretty sure I used a 330ohm resistor from 5v on the pullup on the V3 board, but that was done over 3 years ago when I installed it on my RB26 back in Japan. Currently my setup is disassembled waiting on the new engine to get installed, back to an RB25 w/ ITBs. PM me if you want me to take a look at your setup.

I use a DIS Module from many random 6cyl Nissans like Maxima and I30 for my Ford coil on plug off the MS3X. Just need to find out if the coils you use have a logic input or need some sort of ignition module. As far as I know, LSx coils are logic, but you might need to verify. It took me a while to find out if my Ford coils were logic or not, but I found out through a few different mustang forums.

I am glad to see another successful MS owner.

These are my settings. I use coil on plug with the standard 6 channel Nissan igniter from various Maximas. I can't remember how I did the pull up resistor on the man board, but its done to 5v with a 330 ohm resistor done in the project area of the V3.0 board. I think its connected to the "tachselect". Its been this way since it was installed on an RB25/26 with the same style sensor.

Got my Fujitsubo header in the mail today.

Back from the dead. Is this guy still on here? Would like to see pics of the header install but the links are long dead.

There is a reason they use them in performance situations. They seem to have been a better way in the old days to have a larger flow without having an excessive dead time. Now days, with newer technology, we can have larger flow injectors without a sacrifice in lower pulse widths.

Yes, it will be normal high impedance settings. mine are running off the MS3X board. I would like to do a peak and hold controller, but I think it would be better to just do different injectors.

Junk yard Honda resistors work well for the injectors. I use a Nissan resistor from a GTR. If you check the feed voltage it should be steady battery voltage, regardless of RPM.

Check the voltage to the injectors as the RPMs go up. I had a problem on my low impedance 444cc injectors in that the resistor was wired wrong and the injectors weren't getting enough voltage.

I have driven an L28ET on both MAP and MAF, and I have to say that MAF was way easier to tune with and the engine ran so much smoother. There is growing support for MAF with megasquirt and there is a reason that most OEMs use it. It is so flexible and forgiving and it just works. Also, I have used ITB mode on an NA open ITB motor. Lots of setup, but great payoffs with tuning. It gives you the ability to maximize the VE map with varying the amount of cells that go with alpha-n and MAP on the same table. Which makes autotune work so much better.

Auto transmissions have a different drive shaft (splines) and a different mount. Other than that, not sure how the ECU shifts them, some use the ECU and some have a separate controller depending on R32 or R33. Done a couple swaps in Japan on Skylines and Silvias with RB motors. I would have to look at a schematic to be sure

Decided to pull the front end and motor off of the Datsun in the past couple weeks. I am going to smooth out the bay and paint it. I would like to color match it, but I am really not sure what color I want the car in the end. I am just going to paint everything forward of the windshield gloss black. I don't think I will run any type of undercoat in thus car due to its lack of being driven in the rain. And I set the RB25 ITB motor in it just for fun and fitting purposes.

Decided to pull the front end and motor off of the Datsun in the past couple weeks. I am going to smooth out the bay and paint it. I would like to color match it, but I am really not sure what color I want the car in the end. I am just going to paint everything forward of the windshield gloss black. I don't think I will run any type of undercoat in thus car due to its lack of being driven in the rain. And I set the RB25 ITB motor in it just for fun and fitting purposes.

I have used the ITB mode on MS3 on my RB25ITB motor and it made it very stable at all RPMs. There is also MAP sampling angle the allows the MAP to same at the same point in the cycle to get more consistent readings.

On my S30, the power is wired straight to the battery and the Sign on signal comes from the fuel pump power wire. I built my own relay board, but the concept is still the same. With the relay board and the DIY harness, all you need in wiring is there. Just remove all of the upper harness and keep the lower harness for the alternator and starter. Run the power wire for the relay board to the starter and find an ign on signal to pull from for the relays. The old wiring can be removed without cutting anything, I would just get it out of the way.

Its an involved process either way. Depening on which engine it is will depend on if you leave out the knock sensor or whatever. The real question is what do you need to hook up, not what gets left out. Look at the diagram. Everh sensor needs to get hooked up on that diagram, except the O2. But a wideband is a must for tuning. Its a whole new ECU, so dont think that if a sensor is on the motor, it needsto be hooked up. Definitely chuck the old MAF in the garbage and either get a newer on like I did (Z32) or go speed density, aka MAP sensor. Dont think that a MAF is a hinderence to tuning, those of us who switched to MAF on the MS love it.

You will run one to ground and the other go the speedo, but the ground should be shared with the speedo ground. There should be an output on the speedo to run to the ECU.

Its all bolt on, kept costs down. I chose the block due to its identical head gasket pattern. I had the spare head. And the RB26 head flows better, solid lifters for high RPM

I know some engines went to COP or DIS to have less dwell issues with a single coil at high RPMs. V8s have to start pulling back dwell at higher rpms so that coil isn't firing into the next plug wire. A single coil needs 3-5ms dwell. At 6000rpm, a V8 fire the coil every 5ms. With coil on plug, its every 20ms. This gives much more time for the coil to recharge. I was also reading a hotter spark will resist fouling as well.