josh817

What colors, take a picture? Also what year is your car.

Well incase no one knew, thats whats going on. I went to their site but they didn't have a time on there... I also need to know the location. Google is giving me 5 different places. Which one...

Correct, toss that resistor anyways, thats just extra weight if you did what the diagrams above showed. Just know that obviously you won't get a tach reading if you just go from battery to coil like that.

Yah that would suck to have a crank already turned .040" and stuff.

Its all up to you bud. The crank itself will probably run $400 or $450 so might as well scrap or part out the rest.

Quick answer: No you don't need the oil pressure unit hooked up, its only for the gauge. Long answer: The oil pressure units I have seen are all just sending units and not switches. The Z has an electric pressure unit rather than mechanical/fluid. People make after market switches which you connect by a Tee fitting, this will flick on a light or do whatever you want when oil pressure drops to a certain point, you can buy them at a lot of different pressures (10psi, 5psi, 15psi, etc) If you have one wire coming from the unit, its just for the gauge and nothing else. If its 2 wires then I would suspect the other wire is for a warning light. 3 wire units would be a gauge, warning light, and then the other one is if there is no oil pressure it will usually cut the fuel pump or ignition or all of it for that matter. I can't speak for a Mustang coil but I would suspect most all coils take a constant 12v. This means from the battery is fine. In fact the correct way is to go from the battery 12v to the tach, out of the tach and to the coil, this way the tach can read the pulses. However just a regular 12v will work. I would suspect that the Mustang coil may need like some sort of extra piece run by an ECU or something if there is still a problem. First thing is first, get your 12v, then make sure the rest is hooked up properly, then make sure you have spark. Buy one of those ignition lights which hook up inline with with the spark plug wire to the spark plug itself. It will flash for every spark on that wire. Its about $2 at Harbor Freight.

Time to get out the voltmeter and read voltages at given instances. Usually begin with the ignition functions which are accessories, run, start in that order when you turn the key. I'm only familiar with 240z wiring. :/

40's flow 170 CFM or so with 36mm venturis last time I read and 45's with 36mm venturis flow 240 CFM. I have to check the numbers to be exact but I remember when I read it I was like well 40's you will strangle your motor if you have high flowing P90 head (whats that like 200+ CFM?) Right now I ported my own head so who knows its figures but the cam is .495" 290º and its a 3.1L which I run 1 5/8" primaries into 2 collectors. Now it gets weird here because I have two 2 1/4" collectors. I had a 3" pipe from before, now I just needed to mate the two. Paid a guy $100 to do it but he did it with smaller pipes so instead of a true 2 1/4" pipes merging together its some tiny thing like 1.5" or something. I figured, this is fine because even with 2 1.5" pipes, it should still be the same cross sectional area as a single 3" pipe. I must say the car feels much more torquey compared to the old 6-1 setup with a 3" pipe. Then again, the first intake gasket I had wasn't fit to my ports, since my ports were bigger. This time I used a drill (bad idea) and bored out the ports on the gasket. It was sloppy but it sure did fit a lot better. Next time I plan on using a die grinder to open them up... But... Next time... I'm looking into something bigger than 3.1L on an L engine. Yah know?

I don't think you first link is right. My setup has 12v going through the tach and to the coil. Follow this: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html If you still have problems, address the 12v to the coil. If you're running the ballast resistor, toss it. How you say? Thats how it was originally if you had it. Thats how it is when you get rid of it. Now thats only to get rid of the resistor which drops the voltage to the old points coil. I think you may burn it up if you still use points so toss that too. Follow the directions in the link to install the HEI module, and then follow the diagram if you still have the resistor, which you may not. Still having problems then you can buy my entire setup since I'm going to something else. I'd leave it all wired up for you so all you have to do is bolt down the dizzy, coil, and hook up 12v from the tach to the coil

Oh thank god. I had this ready to go for a different thread but they closed it before I could share. >_> ... referring to their analogy coffee mugs of course.

He has nothing ok! Don't taunt me, bro!

Are you still running rich because the turbo sounds like its wanting to spool up, but it shouldn't unless the motor is under load. Stage launch systems work by making a very rich condition and then retarding the ignition. Maybe I'm just going crazy, I know regular revving of a turbocharged motor you will hear the turbo spinning up but never spooling I don't think. Get yourself one of those ignition lights that you plug inline with the wire/plug and it flashes every time you get a spark on that wire. They're like $2. Just go down the wires until you hit one that has weird spark or no spark. If everything is firing then as you found out before, either your injectors are ****ing up or your timing is off, by a good amount, or both. I don't know anything about the turbo electronics but it seems like a logical step is to map everything out first. You know the motor runs off of 4 or 5 general things: -Cam/motor is degreed properly (mechanical) -spark on all cylinders (mechanical) -properly working injectors (make sure they're working as they should first so this would be mechanical) -correct ignition *break this into sub categories since timing I would think is influenced by different inputs to the ECU from sensors -proper AFR *break this into sub categories since AFR I would think is influenced by different inputs to the ECU from sensors Test ALL the sub categories until you find an oddball. If you have spark on all cylinders, cross it out, you probably degreed the motor properly so cross that out, check your injectors and cross that out if they're good. Get all the physical, mechanical stuff taken care of so its not screwing with the performance of the electrical (IE: TPS is physically broken and reads improperly which messes other things up). If its running with funky timing perhaps you twist the dizzy and advance or retard it until it atleast sounds better than before. Isn't the turbo dizzy just a CAS unit so the ECU takes care of timing? Basically, when the ECU is processing all its inputs, are certain inputs such as water temp and air temp playing a role in how much to advance or retard the ignition? If so, that just made your life really ****ty... If its running way lean, then I would go down the list of things which influence the AFR, all sensors, that sort of thing. Really, you've already kind of done that by checking certain pieces like the AFM however I think it would be good to pull out your schematics and make a list of all inputs to the ECU and then check for shorts, continuity, working properly, etc. If you organize everything out and make sure its nothing mechanical or phyiscally broken/smashed/mangled, then continue onto an electrical check list. Also if I were you, I would note down even the slightest bit of improper voltage say from the temp sensor and what not because with the ECU mixing different inputs together to make a complex running atmosphere (IE: reading air temp, water temp, air flow, and then saying this is happening at X ambient degrees and Y water temp with Z air flow so I need this A/F) I would assume the slightest screw up in any sensor would collectively rape the running condition and performance of the motor. Then again I DID just kind of generalize my thoughts on something I really don't even know electrically... All I know is that when my Z was a wiring nightmare, I just went down the list of things in the schematics and anything connected to each other or whatever was all checked and tested until I got it down to like a break in a single wire or whatever. We're all lucky Nissan didn't rape their wiring from the factory like Triumph did.. One thing goes out and it all goes out. Quite frequently too since they were Lucas products. Haha never daisy chain leery electrics.

A very wise opinion. I think I got my crank right before the prices became stupid. $350 I think and then I started seeing $500, it was crazy. I should start hogging them all like some people. Leave a spare for myself and trade the rest. I don't even want to get into the whole LD28 conversion subject but are you running an intercooler on your supercharger setup? How is the fuel economy, I want to do it but I just know with the way I drive and knowing a supercharger is always boosting... Yikes! Maybe you can run an adjustable boost controller... I don't even want to think about it.

It'll last a good time but something more within the price range you and I like can be found on thezstore. I believe they have an $89 balancer and then you have to buy the "special bolt and washer" for another $40. I'll do this once my stock balancer hits the fan. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEM06 The difference between the is the inertia ring I think. Its the inertia ring on our stock balancers that usually rot away and eventually the inner diameter starts to spin within the outer hub. I don't know how the liquid balancers work but if they don't use a ring at all (the balancer is all one solid piece like a pulley) I would be more comfortable with that.

Big-Phil, I just checked out the Cowtown Z Club site and I saw there is something about a car show at Grubbs Nissan on the 25th. Do you... have any plans to be there... with your fresh toy? Do I have to be a member to be a part of that too? :/

Is it in good shape and how much are you asking?

I have several different projects going on... I would like to see if anyone has a 4.11 or 4.38 gear set for either a r180 or r200. I have a 180 right now but if I have to go to r200 for the 4.38 I will. I also am curious if anyone may have an 88-88.5mm 280 piston set (or just 4). Don't need to be forged since my budget is $400 or less. Will be used in a different motor (not l series) but I need the pin height. Lastly if anyone, preferably local, has a L20 block PM me. I have a Datsun Roadster needing a motor however the stock parts for its motor aren't being produced anymore so its out of the owners price range unless we find some alternatives on parts or do a different motor (thus the pistons and L20 request). Thanks guys, just seeing if anyone has this stuff. Don't hold me to buying right off the bat, just bookmark me for later on if you still have the rear end.

I think even without megasquirt or any other aftermarket ecu, it should atleast be able to start up and run. You would just have a lack of tuning making boosted driving horrible after a certain point I would think.

I've always read that on the turbo builds its preferable to run an aftermarket ecu rather than stock. Is this why its running like ♥♥♥♥ or does that only come into play so you can tune and stuff? this is why I don't mess with this fuel injection stuff... No will to learn and no knowledge to tinker.

If you're serious about the ignitor, I have one, just pay shipping. Atleast I think I do, its on the coil bracket or something yah? EDIT: just saw video and dude... :/ How does your hot voiced girlfriend date you with that.

The rat tail is so sweet I love it. Thin hair so it makes it look really light and flutters in the wind. Mine was really thick and vulgar. Mullrat Didn't keep it, only had it for a couple of minutes until haircut was finished. EDIT: Perhaps you convert from rat tail to skullet. Just shave everything but the tail down to something short. http://mulletjunky.com/rattail.htm ^ Funniest video I have seen tonight. Hands in your pants and then the neighbor pissing you off with a lawn mower as soon as you start the video. ^Girls voice is STILL attractive. My girlfriends voice is more of a nagging tone. Facial expression when it backfired is priceless. However I can't help but feel bad for you since you've been trying hard to get it running. I'll check my stack of '83zxt **** and see if I have anything to help you.

Didn't know we had a local version...

I think things could get out of hand real fast in one though, without a wing. When I do 140mph on a highway its scary.

Looks moderately simple to make if you own a welder and such. I may attempt it. Back to engines!

Wow! $225 now! However, unavailable... http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Front%20Strut.htm