josh817

That was with the motor sitting at the middle of the gauge for water temperature after I was driving for 20 minutes or so. I don't know what the oil temperature was like but as soon as I drove it the next day rather than at night so it was warmer, the problem went away. I didn't want it to reoccur so I gave it to my dad. He uses it in all the race motors he builds so I guess they run hot enough. I think the problem is that the oil pump shares its shaft with the dizzy so if you put a load on the pump, the ignition falls behind too. I also was worried about blowing galley plugs since I never threaded and capped them as the books say to do.

I used Kendall GT straight 50w and it wasn't even cold out and the motor wouldn't rev past 4000rpm from it being so thick. I like it though because it has the zinc in it for solid lifters. Switched to regular synthetic 10W-30 because hell, I didn't make this motor to last over 100,000 miles. >_>

I had the same problem. Those electrodes I think they are called, on the spark plug (the thing the wire snaps onto) are screwed on. Mine came out of the box and they were loose. I tightened them down but they sometimes come loose again and it creates the same problem but at 4000RPM. It will also happen if a spark plug has come loose too.

Digital calipers. :] And no I don't think so. Why don't you do the proper thing and gap all your rings. Note which cylinders have odd gaps, and then see if it corresponds with the piston and its number. When I say "the right thing" I mean setting your ring gap, not trolling you. :] But hey! Thats a pretty good sign if you can read the tops of the pistons when you took them out! Unless you wire brushed them.

OHHHHHH So they're Supra wheels! Well now I feel like a dumb ****. Some dude in a Porsche asked me at a stop light "Hey are those Supra Wheels?" And I said no they were Celica wheels because thats what the previous owner said. >_> WOOPS +1 idiot point! I did have to cut out a lot of material from the inside of the center circle due to the front hub spindles and the hole not being big enough on the wheel. Discount Tire said they would mount a tire and put it on the car ebause I was crazy and they didn't want to be liable for my death so I said mount the tires and I'll bolt the wheels onto the car. This way when I crash and hit something hard, I can blaim myself. They still tried to talk me out of doing it and buying some proper wheels saying that the tires would wear improperly and that I would have a lot of vibration at higher speeds. Well now... 145mph... didn't wobble so much to me. I kinda have some ratrod soul in my car.

LEVERAGE! *flexes muscles* Get a big 7 foot hollow pipe, put it over the end of the breaker bar and do it! Had to do that with head bolts actually... :/ Then I broke a socket which wasn't Craftsman so I cried until I did get a Craftsman in case it broke again.

You can buy a T splitter thing to screw into the block and then it splits for the sending unit to the gauge. Then the other end you put to a 1/8" fitting or something to screw in a warning light. You can buy them for different pressures for instance a VW bug has like 2-3 psi switch. The 2 prong ones use a 12v power source from the light and then the other prong for the block. You can buy 3 prong ones which have the same but the 3rd prong is to cutoff whatever you want when oil pressure drops below the given point. I don't think I'd get fuel pump cutoff though because if you're using lets just say a set of carbs that don't have accelerator pumps so when you press on the pedal it doesn't shoot gas in, how will you have pressure to start up the motor without the pump running? That sort of thing I do suppose. That is... if we're talking about a sending unit AND a low oil pressure warning light. Its on my list of things to do. :]

I've had mine for about 1200 miles and it does its job. I don't make enough power to cause any problems. No vibrations from it either from balancing issues although that may mean nothing. One thing is that because its ceramic, if you try to slip it a lot at a light you will get lots of chatter. This is ok though unless you have someone riding up your ass on a hill. As far as driving goes you really need to drive a couple of city miles for that thing to heat up. Once it heats up it grips nicely. If I pull right out of my garage after it sat over night, the clutch feels very gentle and the pedal feels soft. Like I said though once you pump the pedal, start driving, blah blah blah you can feel the stiffness in the pedal and how it bites when you pull away. The real test I guess is how long will this last. My clutch seemed to bite much more at first and I'm a heavy driver so I'm not sure if its already on its way out. XD I doubt it though as its not slipping and I'm probably just getting better at shifting. I was pretty bad when I first hopped in with the new motor since I hadn't driven a manual tranny in months. And yes the holes won't match up unless you get it right on the dot the first time. They have several holes drilled I guess for different pin spacing. I think this clutch was worth it though considering ACT is very expensive (but very good too) for the performance figures that XTD claims.

Wow, you did well!

You know that makes sense because when I took apart and tightened down the bolts, when you start getting up into the 55+lbs you hear it slipping and catching and slipping again. Scared me at first cause I thought I had broken a bolt or cracked something! Ever since I saw my dads first motor topple over and break a head stud I am quite frightened by snapping a bolt in a major area. And actually when I went to tear down my old spare L24 which sat around for maybe 2 years, because I didn't use a Craftsman 10mm allen wrench drive thing, I wound up breaking the socket! It was made in China but boy thought scared me into thinking the same thing. :[ Thats one thing I absolutely HATE about aluminum, especially with the aluminum bell housing of the T5 and when I went to put the starter motor on, thought I had stripped it but then it caught again. :0! I also surprised that the aluminum heads we use don't have depressions where the washer sits, being soft metal and all. Oh well though, if I blow a head gasket that gives me an excuse to pull the head and do more work on it as I'm not fully satisfied with what I have done. Oh and 1979280zx, I hope we answered your question amongst our conversation!

bjhines did you make that air box?! I like it very much! Same thing happens to my baby except mine seems WAY more dramatic. For instance, today at school, the stop sign is on a hill and some junior chick pulls up RIGHT behind me. My clutch doesn't like to slip so I have to drop it and floor the sucker. When I floor it, nothing happens and you think "oh god I'm going to stall out in the middle of traffic" but then all of a sudden it kicks in. This gap in time from when its dead and then all of a sudden alive is like a good half second, its pretty bad and its not a fun ride when its a 3.1L with all that torque... really plants you in your seat. Now if I gradually get on the throttle, bring the rpms up above 2500-3000 then floor it, I'm fine. I haven't bothered to sit down and check out what I have in the carbs. Using a link Zredbaron posted I think it was, I came up with: 45mm carb 40mm venturi 160 main jet 210 air corrector F2 emulsion tube Now unless I find some cheap 45's which I missed out on some on ebay! Really nice! :[ But 40's will work with a large venturi I bet. Since I'm still learning and I'm not sure how horsepower feels in the butt, I know what torque is like, but one of them drops off dramatically at 5500RPM so I'll say torque. My point is that when I go on my rampages I never really hit 6500, I've done that one time because at 6000 I get bad thoughts of what if my motor blows up, I'll have to cry. Since I'm not using an excesive top end, I think smaller venturis would be lovely for the streetability to get rid of that nasty spot. The only way to get around it really is if you are doing like a drag run and you bring it up to 3000rpm and drop the clutch. Don't like doing that either though. As far as timing goes, our timing light is showing what you guys call for (20º idle 35º by 3000), however my idle will not drop below 1300rpm ever and I personally don't like it that high. Is there any other way to check for detonation? My Z is rather loud so any "marble noises" I don't think I'll hear, especially in a garage on a dyno. That blip in the throttle when you floor it only occurs when you floor it and the explanation of you pumping a tone of gas in when you open up the throttle that quickly makes perfect sense. Same reason why I pump the pedal a couple of times before I start the motor. You can't really tell in this video because I'm not opening them up 100% but you can hear a slight blip at first. Once its spinning up, its just fine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpCa0hC47QU ^Video from under the hood http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asM-MVAg9LA ^Irresponsible, innapropriate street driving. :] Hey it shows how the motor responds when getting on it hard at a moderate rpm rather than from idle! *mumbles*also shows how hard it pulls (atleast in my mind)from 20-90mph >_> *cough*

:0! Did I supremely screw up by using anti-seize/oiled threads?! My dad told me to oil the threads when I did the main journal bolts, and then we smeared the greyish stuff that comes in a can, the lid is used as a brush, on the head bolts and such. Is that not what I was suppose to do?! Ruh-roh!

Should be from the center out, 65lbs. Don't torque right to 65 though, do 25 for all of them, bump it up to 45 and do them all again, and then finally the 65 for all of them. This makes it a gradual change rather than a sudden 65lbs. Use antisieze lube on the threads because torque specs are done on lubricated threads. Lastly when you are torquing anything down, do a continuous turn until your wrench clicks. If you stop and lets say its at 60lbs, then you start again, you have to apply a force greater than 60lbs to turn the bolt. Your wrench will click, saying you have applied 65lbs and the bolt is done when in reality the bolt is at 60 and you are having to exert 65+lbs. If that happens, loosen the bolt and start over.

Ask steveosupremeo, he helped me do mine and knows the part # (atleast he knew it when I did mine). I called up Timeserts, $27 and a day later (they have a distributor here in the DFW area) I had them! First thing is first though! If you have old solid lifters like I do, the lock nut is on there REALLY tight, break them loose first. Save yourself from that problem because if you don't break them loose and you torque the lifter in, they'll probably loosen the entire lifter from the head and you have to go do it over again... -Take them ALL apart and clean them of any old yucky stuff. -Assemble them and screw the adjuster head thing all the way down. -Screw the timesert onto the lifter WITHOUT lock tight, make sure they are screwed ALL the way onto the lifter so the lifter doesn't turn when you torque them down. -WITH lock tight (I used red but I think the red is a bit much for this), go around the outside threads of the timesert, screw into head and torque to 30lb. Not to gun him down but Steveosupremeo said he filled in the oil holes, I don't think this is necesarry if your essentially corking up the hole anyways. Also when you apply your locktight, make sure its at the top of the threads and use just a drop. You don't want the locktight to dribble down into that oil hole and clog up the oil galley or something!

Cam tower shims indeed, and then probably an adjustable cam sprocket too. I had this problem too on my head, only with getting the rockers on. I used a screw driver to lift the rocker up onto the lifter head. It was rough doing all 12 because you are compressing the springs while you do it and trying to avoid the cam BUT once it was on the lifter head there was plenty of room. It appears you have no room at all even with the rocker on the lifter. I would check your lash pads, smaller ones will lower it but not enough for what you need I'm betting. To avoid wrestling the rockers in and since you're taking the cam towers out anyways for shims, place all the rockers one and then bolt the cam tower down and torque to spec. Its going to suck having to take off the chain and loosen all the head bolts. Since the cam towers use half the head bolts to hold them down I do believe, actually I think its 4 bolts on the one side... Back to the point though I would retorque the entire head when you assemble it again. Start al over and do all bolts over again to prevent any problems.

I just about needed this help too! I have a California dizzy that is sitting half way on the little plate thing, but its reading 35º total advance! California models should be running less I thought! 25ish at idle but my idle won't go lower than 1200RPM so I'm dropping it down or just living with it. I can't imagine 36-38 though... What size are your carbs? I bet you're running lean if they're 40's with small venturis like I probably am. :/I'm sure a crappy timing light will screw with our brains all month... so I'd get on that quickly.. Still though, I'm betting you're running lean, way lean perhaps. With good fuel, good ignition, crappy timing light, and questionable carbs, the only 2 things I can think of is your light is screwed or the carbs need working. :/ We both need to sit down and write all of our jet sizes and venturi sizes are. Do some calculations and hope for the best... cause its expensive.

Yah, when I look at the list of things to fix I might as well build a new motor because I wouldn't want to skimp on ANYTHING next time. I would want flat tops first off, better ported head, hotter cam, bigger carbs, 6-2-1 headers. Thats basically a whole motor. I am kind of considering a 3.1L supercharged motor. I don't think the supercharger needs that many sensors, nothing like the turbos. Use some 280 rods, same type of piston I have, same crank, same head, yields 7.48:1. Now I don't know squat about forced induction but I'm sure that 7.48:1 would allow me to do like 10-15lbs, but can a M80 or whatever it is super charger do that? I don't know what pulleys are available. Right now its just all a dream until the next motor... After building this motor I have such a strong urge to go out and build more! I want to build motors for people but you need a name out for yourself to do that and have their trust so being new to this, along with being a teenager, I don't think I qualify at all. XD I think it would be so fun to build and make a little money off of it too! Even a little money plus parts or whatever is pretty sweet in my mind. Then if you build a beast you can be like yah... I built that... Then you want to drive it but its not yours so you get all sad and angry. :/ ... end of college, just wait it out... Hopefully I'll hop right out, have a decent job, probably no spare money but I'll push my way through it and rebuild a motor somehow. That is... unless it blows up like... tomorrow... >_> Gottah get my mind out of the gutter!

POWER SHOT! Makes you look way cool if you take a picture from the ground! On the other hand! I need to get myself some air cleaners, 45mm carbs because I saw a set of Mikuni 44mm carbs for sale for $600! and they were nice too! Prices are coming down! Yah! Then some 6-2-1 headers so if anyone wants to buy my 6-1 ceramic coated headers give me a yell. Then I talked with Paul and he gave me some REALLY good hints on porting which I plan to go through with. Perhaps over next summer I'll pull my head, port and polish some more. I need to call Rebello and discuss his custom cams since mine is .495 290º (Stage IV) and the next one avaliable is like .590 300º which I don't want. I'm not going to go so far as to change to flat top pistons. Perhaps I'm just dreaming on the port and polish. I'll be off the road for a while if I do that one so I'll probably wait until this motor dies. In that case... end of college is a good assumption.

Saw your springless valvetrain and thought I'd post this hoping you haven't seen it yet... Ever since I saw it last week, I've been wanting to get a hold of the dude and talk about our L6 motors. >_> You know... just dreaming about the possibilities and all. They seem to run just fine. Its a rather brilliant idea. The top end always seems to be more complicated than the bottom for me so I'm betting with this sort of system, the only thing holding you back is the mass of your rotating asembly and its integrity... oh and your will power because I would have pulled out a hammer by now. :/ OHC: Pushrod:

Yah I thought the stuff was way too thick. :[ I guess its ok though, I've been getting some hours in with Dad prepping customer cars for the races this weekend. I'll just say buy me 5 quarts of oil rather than paying me. Its still a waste of 5 quarts of the race oil though. :[ EDIT: Dad got me some Exxon 10W-30 and boy what a difference. First off, I knew it was the oil right away when I set out today. Last night it was cool, and the water temp. never went above midway on the gauge. Somehow this fan controller actually lowered my temp. even though the fan ran all the time before. Back to the topic, I had a bad ground for the fan motor and the test light kept showing it was ok, then not ok, then ok. I wound up getting really hot from the fan not running and me seeing if the motor would rev up. The motor did indeed rev up very nicely to the highest I have tried to push it which is 6500RPM. I noticed this for the 2nd time (last time was forever ago since I don't go that high) when you hit 6k you hear a pop and it continues on. I stopped when I heard the pop. I'm thinking too much advance, maybe valve float (no worries about a piston kiss since they're dished) this shouldn't happen anyways since its a performance cam and should have the performance springs too. Dad is going to take the oil I drained and put it in his crap truck. Not too worried about dirty oil because well... its a crap truck... Lets hope when winter hits he doesn't have any problems because that stuff is like a can of paste. This normal oil is quite nice though. Maybe I'm just crazy but the motor feels much more responsive and when you get it wound up it seems to chug harder than before. In fact, I have something special for you guys. I actually took an in car video today. XD Its a pain trying to hold the camera and I can't really lay it down because these new cameras just HAVE to be the tiniest things in the world... I mean, who buys a big camera... >_< As far as gearing goes I'm just running the T5 tranny with 3.54 stock R180 which makes nice typical Datsun clunks when you pull away. I'd really like a 4.11 or a 4.38, switch it out when you go on long trips so you can make use of the overdrive. I believe it was something like 20-100mph. You know you've hit 100mph when the steering wheel gets a little tipsy on the bumpy back roads. My teenage balls are only big enough to do 135mph in 4th. I don't think I want to see what the top end of 5th brings me to. Probably my death. Youtube has that small video size so you can't really see the needle on the speedo. Maybe try doing full screen. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asM-MVAg9LA

Oh yes I know that already. My grandma gives me lectures over the phone about standing up for what you believe in and if you're wrong, just shut up. I always tell her about how working at Tom Thumb and the boss of mine who disrespects every guy in the store, but loves the girls, for reasons we all probably know why. I'm always saying look I don't care about her sexual preference but you don't treat teenage guys like crap and the grown men who are 20+ years older then her barely get respect. Grandma gets all riled up on the phone "Youuuuu tell them that you don't need to take their ****, Joshua! Tell them they barely give you any hours so they can just stick it right up their ass!" XD It gets intense, especially close to dinner time. Ok so ANYWAY! We have an issue boys! The whole thing I said about the oil and no idea why I chose it, yah bad idea! First off let me go over the 2 things I did today. I hooked up the fan controller, it works well. Then I changed oil. NOW when I drove home the motor WILL NOT rev. passed 4500RPM! As soon as it hits 4500RPM it sounds like a rev limiter kicked in and won't go any higher! Now if you look back at the oil, it says 20W-50, and apparently I got some other bottles thinking they were all the same but basically it was a mix of 20W-50 and straight 50. This oil is THICK. In fact, my oil pressure reads higher than before. We all know the dizzy is connected to the oil pump by a shaft. My thought is that I'm building up too much pressure with this thick oil and its putting resistance on that shaft, causing misfires. I know, there is a bypass valve. What I don't know is if it works, or if the pressure to open it is too high for my motor to reach. I mean if its not the oil then its the fan controller which is just a relay the flips at a given time, point being that it isn't drawing any more current than it was before when the fan was always running. We only did 2 things to the car so its one of them and fan doesn't make sense. Now... One new thought I just had, perhaps because of the FAN keeping me nice and cool (middle of the gauge and I typically sit just above the middle) perhaps I'm not warmed up enough. Mix this with thick oil and now you have a paste trying to be pumped x amount and only y amount can be achieved. I'm just winging ideas out. This supremely sucks because I have 15 miles on that oil and once its drained, well, its done for. And if new oil doesn't do it... then... well that just sucks nuts. Going back tomorrow to see whats up. I'm in a pissy mood now.

Yah. I took their word for it since they are the wheel and tire experts and they did bring up a good point. I'll double check everything but I'm still using those wheels probably. As explained in my video, if you have one side which isn't ground out enough, that side will not be flush with the hub. That was my main problem when I was trying to get the whole to fit exactly on the cone. I was always off by just a little bit but when you torqued the wheel to the hub and spun it, it wobbled a TON. Then I looked at the slots and again, as shown in the video. you see that giant circle, and then about a half inch in, it goes to normal size. Point being that the larger circle is OVER sized. Its 4.--something inches and the cone at its base is only 3.--something inches. Some cool new news is that I have a spare P90A head with an extra set of hydraulic lifters. This one guy on here wants that head so he can play with it but because he will only be playing with it, he doesn't really want to dish out any money. He does however have the 4 wheel 4 piston disk brake setup with new rotors and pads. Everything for me to sit down one day and bolt everything up. The only things I'll need would be that 15/16 master brake cylinder and a larger displacement splitter or something like that? I have to do some more reading but that'll be VERY cool! As far as body work goes, I'm doing 2 colors. I want power colors, that being white, black, or red. White and black is cool but red is my favorite color, it matches the motor, the brakes, and looks fun. The only thing I don't like about white is that it will show every dirt mark on the car... and my car is pretty dirty... know what I mean? >_> The other super cool part is that since I've been doing body work on the BMW I have learned how to use Bondo, fiberglass, properly sand, etc. All I have to do is duplicate the process with the Z. My only problem right now is stripping the paint. On the BMW we used this Aircraft Stripper which is MEAN stuff. Paint it on and 10 minutes later the paint is blistered up and peels off. If its new paint then its a bitch to use as it only takes off a top coat leaving several more under it so you might as well use a sander. But my main point is that the Aircraft Stripper may be so strong I fear it will eat through the fiberglass headlight buckets. I may make a batch of glass and see what happens when I use it. Another problem is that I am racing against time with the BMW. The rust is coming in quickly so every weekend when I come back to do more work I have to spruce up the area and clean it off before I start. To make sure rust didn't come in so fast we sprayed the car with cheap primer/krylon just to cover the bare metal but rust is forming under the metal. Rust kills, and I couldn't help but notice that inside my door where the window is, down at the very bottom where it probably collects some water, its rusting. I'm betting I'm going to put in all this effort to make the car look pretty and then I'll have some nasty rust bubble come up a month later down in there. Its in a spot that I can't reach so I guess when people spray their cars professionally they take apart the door? Who knows. This won't be professional, and I think I'm going to do a little more fancy than the Rustoleum paint... I'll probably get some Duplicolor or some cheap automotive paint. The goal is to stay cheap. If it reaches $1000 for a paint job, leave me out because I'm thinking more like... $300. The cool part is that since Dad does full restorations at his shop and he uses this one lady for all the body work she came over and offered the usage of all her equipment. She said just get the paint and I could use her spray guns, and most importantly her spray booth. That way I won't have bugs and **** in the paint because knowing my luck a big beetle would land on my wet work! This is what I scrounged up in Microsoft Paint since Photoshop is WAY over my head. Original picture: What I'm visualizing (ignore that stray line, the computer freaked out): The BMW using that Aircraft Stripper. You paint it on with a brush and don't let it touch you skin because it burns and itches. Quite annoying. Don't bother using Latex gloves either because it'll eat through those too... And if ANY of you guys have any tips on how to keep the friggin sand paper on the big circular sander that would be wonderful. The paper has sticky stuff on the back of it which you stick on the face of the sander. It works well for about 30 seconds and then it starts slipping off and finally it shoots off. Try to stick it back on but it flies off every 5 seconds until you get pissed throw it out. You know what would be cool is if you just clearcoat that sanded down bare metal. Almost like chrome! Haha... it would still be cool. >_> And lastly one important question. For timing, what mark do you look at on the dampener. There are several grooves on it and I'm curious if I'm either reading it wrong or my timing is just weird. Now someone here did say that if the rotor is sitting between 2 plugs it may cause a ton of advance and perhaps even skip between the 2. However, the base plate for the distributor that I'm using came off of my old points dizzy and maybe that just isn't calibrated for this electric dizzy. Might I add a note here: When I'm sitting at a light very rarely but it does happen you hear a little blip in the exhaust and feel a slight jerk in the car. Perhaps this is the misfire issue I just mentioned. It has never happened when moving though so who knows. It barely happens so I don't really worry about it. This is what my dizzy is showing. The timing light is saying that at this mark I am doing 35º total (at 3k RPM) and 20º at idle (1300 RPM). This doesn't seem right so either I'm reading the wrong groove on the dampener, this timing is as that one guy described, or its just messed up and I'll deal with it. I'd like to say set it to how you want it since I still have plenty of room to turn the dizzy both ways. Which one? Think I needed new rear tires? Had a little bit too much fun! Little bit of a camber issue too it looks like. That groove I mentioned in the PROPER slot mags. I never get that bored from just looking at it. Its kinda exciting really... And finally the goods I bought today before I leave next weekend for more flag work. I wish I was out there racing instead of being the boo waving the flag but hey its money and its fun to be around the cars. One thing to note on the oil. I bought Kendall GT-1 SL grade oil. Guys if you are running solid lifters, use SL and not SM. Don't ask me why I got 20W-50, Dad had me get it. I trust him since apparently he's some oil Guru for vintage cars and he did have a presentation at the car club a couple months ago but I was left babysitting Willie and keeping him from interrupting Dad and his presentation. I'm pretty sure we could discuss what type of oil and their properties all day long but I'm just going to say use SL without having a reason for why... Might I add "Aww its my babies first oil change, that's cute." And then lastly, this is why I like doing flag work. :] That event the only Z that showed up was this dented dog which I've never seen run that well. The guy always leaves early so I'm not sure what to think. There are like 2 others but I've only seen one of them and he didn't show up either. The third one I have no idea what he's like. This coming weekend though is the last race of CVAR so I hope everyone makes it. Sorry for the long post. :/ Oh and Woldson, the only reason why I have so much gumption is because of this project and having to deal with people. Before this I was the dude where if you didn't get what you ordered you just kinda let it slide and if someone messed up or pushes you around you let it slide. Then you go home and say "Wow, I should have stabbed him..." XD Now I kind of voice my opinion and hope for the best. Here is the link to all of my project pictures. They're in a time line order: http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/Stroker%20Project/

Oh thats just great... Went to Discount tire to do my front wheels and they said they couldn't work on modified wheels because it WILL have vibrations in it. So I asked what causes the vibrations and they said "if its not flush up against the hub, it will wobble" and I was like >_< "Dudes, when I did the grinding on the wheels, I put it on several times to make sure that the wheel was flush against the hub and I spun it to make sure..." Then I asked for the manager to come out, not because I was angry but because I was stubborn and I really want these wheels on the car. He told me a different story saying the proper wheels are made to be snug with the cone on the hub. I was like... dude... the circle on the slot mags is 4.8" or something like that and the base of the cone on the hub is 3.25" (I just kinda made up those numbers, I don't know exact figures). All in all I'm not going to argue with the guys who specialize in wheels. Tomorrow I'll go and double check all my measurements, check for any miniscule wobble, and do any final grinding before they balance and mount the tires. They will put tires on the wheels they just won't mount them which is a matter of putting wheel on and tightening 4 lug nuts... Such a simple step can't be done because if it falls off and they are incompetant of my work, then they are liable. I'll just take the wheels off and put the car on jacks.

I took apart that stupid thing 3 times! It doesn't want to go up in the front. Like it randomly happened one day... the day it down poured. the rollers are following their grooves on the window, and the window is in the front and back track slots. I don't know what is going on but its annoying...

Alright not very many updates but I made another video to show you my fixes and then my recent problems. Any help would be great, especially with the window. x_x http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mB7qwfWlzeI There is a Part 2 which is in the "video response" Right now I have to take a huge dump, so I'll come back and edit this post!