blue72

The bolt is threaded normally. It's supposed to be on with about 110ftlbs or so of torque, so it can be a little tough to remove. Have you tried removing it with a long cheater bar while having the rear wheels on the ground, car in gear and parking brake on? That might do the trick if you don't have an impact handy. Either that or if the timing chain is still on, hold the cam bolt steady with one socket (or grip a cam flat-spot with a wrench) and break the crank bolt loose with another.

I think you got the wrong link. I don't mind looking at pictures of turbos though.

Just broke out the "How to Rebuild" book (I find it much more helpful than the Haynes manual). The idea is to adjust the slack side chain guide 'tangent' to the chain. It means aligned with, or as ozconnection pointed out, so it doesn't kink and has a nice smooth curving radius.

Whoever she was she seems pretty intelligent. She was determined to leave a nice personalized message so the boyfriend could tell the police exactly who vandalized his car. Well, maybe she'll have better luck next time. Will your insurance pay for the tires though?

I'm sorry, but I can't understand your question. Is there a way to rephrase it using correct punctuation? You want to weld bolts to the torque converter?

"It is ORIGINAL only once!" Yes, and that time has passed.

Here's a writeup from ratsun.com. It's the same basic transmission with a different bellhousing. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=8978

I've been on the 'bay ('nova, 'reactor, etc...) for many months now, but nobody is seeding the last 23.7%, just a bunch of leechers. I'm the one with the highest percentage among peers. To me it seems that in order to download or watch any video from veoh.com you have to install their software first, so I guess I'll just install it on a computer other than my main machine so I can download the whole file.

Not to steal Bryan's response, but he runs a machine shop and does cylinder head work and intake fabrication as well. Here's his website: http://www.bandmzcars.com

Well, if you're referring to the 1991 live action movie, then yes, there is one definitive Devil Z, and it's a C-S31. AK-Z, do you have the whole movie downloaded? I've spent countless hours searching for a copy, followed every link on HybridZ, Silvia forums and numerous web pages to find a copy of it. I've got 75% of it through torrents, but nobody's seeding the rest. Just wondering if anyone is still interested in hosting it. I really would loathe installing veoh.com's proprietary media player just to watch the whole thing.

AFAIK, all the U.S. L6 cylinder heads have 35mm approx. intake ID's. The only L6 heads with smaller ports came on L20's in overseas applications. 05L is 28mm, E30 is 30mm and the Y70 is also 30mm. I suppose you could count the P79 as having slightly smaller intake runners because of the D shape they were cast in, but it helped promote swirl and velocity, so it probably doesn't count.

He's got them posted in this thread MONZTER: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143259&page=2

Doh, sorry G-rib-73-240Z, I mistook your setup for someone else's with an L6, not a SBC. Disregard my previous comment.

Thanks for the links, but I already have most of the ratios for those FS5---- transmissions, just not the LD powered Maxima (910) version of it. As for finding out gear ratios, if you can turn the input shaft with the tranny in gear, then you'd be able count the rotations of the output shaft and get a close approximation without disassembling the case and counting teeth.

Yes, the two collaborated at one point in time. Lucas was still a student when he made this film with a team of 13 others apparently. At least you get to see a Lotus 23 blasting through Willow Springs with Mr. Brock himself behind the wheel. It's titled 1:42.08 enjoy.

One big problem is that the series has some continuity issues. Akumi Zeto transforming between S30 to S31 repeatedly for instance. BTW this thread is over 3 years old.

Wait, the number has 8 digits? Are you looking at a number cast into the block? The number you want is the one stamped into the block, on the passenger side near the transmission bellhousing. It'll be L24-_______ and the serial number should only be 6 digits long. For a '73 240Z the serial number would be roughly between 120,000 and 170,000.

If it is a 5-speed then it'd probably be a FS5W71-C. It's one of the transmissions that I haven't yet been able to track down the gear ratios for.

My research indicates they came on '80-'81 200SX's and 510's (A10) in the U.S. Have you tried ITM, Silvolite, etc... or are you looking for some good used ones?

So you're now going to pass that new found karma around and start machining pieces for us Z guys at incredibly reduced prices, right?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139381 Here's another one that deals with liners as well: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119675

His rear drums and shoes are long gone. He's got nice Wilwood rear disk setup.

There's no difference in setting the timing when using an LD28 crankshaft. The question of maximum overbore for a turbo application depends on the quality of the block you have. The best way to determine cylinder wall thickness is with sonic testing. There are one or two threads here where 1 fast z and Tony D weighed in on their acceptable minimums for wall thickness in turbo applications.

No, I no longer run a Fram oil filter.

It's one of the first ones I'd seen for sale, and you didn't mention how desperate you were to have one, so I thought I'd let you know about it. The guy selling it has it posted on classiczcars.com and says he'll just put it back in storage for a few more years if it doesn't sell at what he admits is an inflated price. I've also seen a few on Japanese speed shop websites, but haven't bothered with currency or language conversion. Is there a price range/location/condition you're looking for? You didn't say.