blue72

Nice plates Whittie. Here's one I'm working on as a personal project: The pictures show it still mounted to an old Chrysler in a junkayrd, stripped and straightened, primed and base coated, and as of this morning completely masked in prep for the letter paint (yes, I know there are other ways to paint the letters). Should be done by the end of the day. I'm keeping an eye on some '68-'72 Utah plates over at e-bay.com to restore and mount on my Z.

How far off are we talking, an inch or 1/8 of an inch? If its very close then it might just be that the tensioner came out a little bit. For whatever reason it tightens the chain up almost insurmountably, but like Mayolives said you can get lucky with the right combination of screwdrivers/prybars/long extensions to get it pushed back in far enough. I've done it through sheer luck but I was still amazed when it popped back on..

Just make sure you have large enough sockets to remove everything. I neglected to bring mine when I spotted a 3.9:1 R200 in a yard and had to go home and retrieve my 21-27mm 1/2" stuff.

DOh! you are right. Now to activate my search function! Actually, since we're talking about the clutch MC rod, you can just weld on an extension piece if it isn't long enough. Well, if you've got access to a welder or some threaded bar stock.

There's a '78 280Z in a j/y half an hour from me that I've pulled a few parts from. If you really wanted it I could probably pull the 5-speed and everything associated with it, but I wouldn't have any way of making sure it worked. On the plus side, I'm only a few hours up the road from you. I can't help but thinking there'd be a good number of pick-n-pull type yards in the greater Las Vegas area that'd have one stop shopping for what you need. Just wait for a 1/2 off day and go crazy stripping some less fortunate old Z.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112496

Have you checked to see if the clutch fluid reservoir has any fluid in it? I'm not sure the 280ZX would have had a clutch interlock mechanism, kinda old for that sort of thing.

Only 3% of us are addicts?

If I can get rid of all of the parts in my for sale ad I'd drive down from Utah. I'll even consider painting my car beforehand. I just remembered that I've got an aunt and uncle in Placentia and another in Cypress, hmmmm.

Hmmmm.... depends on what you deem to be a "reasonable amount". My '72 has a better power to weight ratio than a new GT pony car, but it has had its share of modifications done to the ole' L28.

Is it slipping as in jumping teeth on the gears? The only other kind of slipping I can think of at the moment would involve not tightening down the cam gear bolt or something along those lines.

Did you wedge the timing chain in place before removing the cam gear? If not then the chain wasn't pulled tight enough and the tensioner probably popped out. Now you'll have to remove the front cover to put it back in place.

It's a tube that runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR apparatus it looks like.

Either go with the Pertronix or find a '79-'80 ZX dizzy in a boneyard with an E12-80 module and run it. Those are probably the two easiest/most cost effective ways of doing it. The 280Z distributors use an ignition module that's mounted inside the passenger compartment. The later N/A ZX distributors have a different 'matchbox' ignition module mounted on the dizzy, an E12-92 or E12-93. They can be used, I've got one running properly on my car now, but it takes some thinking to get around the timing retardation built into the later units. Another good option is to run the Ford EDIS system but that's probably a bit more complicated than what you're looking to do. Come to think of it, I've got a spare early ZX dizzy that I rebuilt last week, but I haven't tested to see if the E12-80 module is still good.

I think it must be a kit you buy to perform this conversion because I've seen this exact same setup on other vehicles.

Who makes that intake to carb adapter manifold Joe-Z?

Start your own Nissan/Datsun museum?

You can't edit any post after 24 hours, well, unless your an administrator. Most people just add a new post to their for sale thread updating which items have been sold or are still available.

If the Singh grooves are meant to be carved into the quench pads on the head, then would it pose any benefit whatsoever on a dished piston motor? Seems to me that if they're in the quench areas that any "benefits" could only be realized with a flat-top piston equipped motor. Just my 2 cents.

Like the others have said, that's already been answered here as well. I'm not going to spend the time doing the research for you, but start looking for discussions surrounding 10mm bolt carriers and 12mm bolt carriers.

That isn't an LSD (Limited Slip Differential), that's fully locked all the time, no slipping whatsoever. As far as if the Z31 R200 housing will physically bolt right into place, the answer is yes. I've got an N/A Z31 R200 in my '72 right now. The part that will take some modification will be the CV halfshafts if you go with the full Z31T CLSD diff package. The information is out there bianski. BTW, if you're looking for the cheapest LSD option out there I would read through the OBX vs. Quaife sticky in this sub-forum (as well as the others that have been pointed out to you). Also, it is entirely plausible that your car came from the factory with a 4-speed manual trans. 5-speeds were an option.

What nismopick said. I've tried leaving the head on and not removing the oil pan then installing the front cover and I will tell you that it doesn't work. No problem with only the cyl head on, just be careful and go slowly and you shouldn't hit any *snags*.

I've been waging keyboard stroke to keyboard stroke combat with a nasty computer virus lately so I didn't feel confident in posting the latest couple of updates here until all was secure again. Here's a little one to show how everything looks now that its protected with a couple of coats of POR-15. I am not going through the trouble of doing all of this work only to see it rust through and break down again. Repaired inner fender support structure: Nice gloss black floorpans: The next item on the list of repairs is general dent removal and straightening. I found some spare sheetmetal out behind the shop the other day from a '78 Caddy. The 67-72 Chevy truck parts like that inner fender already have a home or else they'd have been cut up already. At least the one scrap fender I do have will give me a little something to work with when repairing the lower fenders. After that I'll be yanking the crossmember for either a flip or to weld in some box sections so the SR pan will clear. Then I'll be playing around with those ZX struts. Much more to come when I get a clear bay in the shop for a bit. I'm waiting until this crusty old thing is out of my way:

I've got a really nice front bumper that I pulled from a '73 in a junkyard, the kind with the spacer thingy. I'm just waiting until I paint my '72 to put it on.

Which 260Z bumper are we talking about here Mr. Devil Z, early or late? The 240Z -early 260Z bumpers are the same. The variations exist in bumper brackets and a cosmetic guard plate. Sometime in 1973 the front bumper was spaced further out with new brackets and a little plate was bolted on to disguise this fact visually. This was continued until the halfway point of 260Z production when they changed to the 280Z styled bumpers among other things.