blue72

I was going to try that as well, but the autozone site is down right now for maintenance. I've got all of the FSMs but they are in PDF format, so I'm not of much help right now. Wait, I've got access to Mitchell1's Premier Club vintage section. Hee hee. Looks like the auto trans equipped cars had an extra temp switch and relay, just like what was being discussed in another thread today. Looks like a red w/ black wire, black, black, green, black w/ white and another green wire are all involved with those two components. Also, are we sure its a black w/ yellow striped wire we're dealing with and not just a dirty black w/ white striped wire. I've seen them turn yellow over time, but once you clean them off they aren't yellow anymore.

My computer is having some virus problems, so I've uninstalled all PDF readers and I'm looking at the '72 diagram on another computer. Black with white goes to positive post on coil Green with white goes to one end of the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor looks like it connects to a different black with white wire. Black wire goes from the negative post on the coil to the distributor body. Those are all of the connections it shows for the coil, dizzy and resistor. Let me see if I can find a '73 diagram and find out if its any different. Another quick question: is it an auto or manual transmission equipped car? The autos had dual points distributors.

He's the same guy that built the red Z with 180 degree headers for a past 200X challenge. I've got that issue floating around somewhere.

I tried calling Courtesy Nissan about two weeks ago and they told me they have been sold out of both for quite some time now. I even tried giving my local Nissan dealership the part numbers that they use and that are in the back of the How to Modify your N/D OHC Engine book, but no dice there either.

Where'd you source your plastic valve cover crashed240z? Nice work with the aerocatch pin install too.

I searched for "carbon fiber taillight" and it was result #4 for me. Just so you know, they are available from MSA now.

Sometimes I have to be corrected to learn. As long as we are talking about manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum then we are both accurate to a certain extent. Manifold vacuum is the source that should be used for vacuum advance on the distributor. As islanddozer stated, under acceleration, in low and mid engine load the engine generates more vacuum. I double checked this a few minutes ago on my own vehicle with a vacuum gauge hooked up to the balance tube between my intake manifolds. Vacuum dropped off sharply when blipping the throttle, but opening the throttle and holding it open as rpm raised produced an increasing amount of vacuum. If your vacuum advance is working correctly then it is advancing the timing in conjunction with the mechanical advance under these conditions. Another item of note is that above about 10-15 inches of vacuum the arm attached to the diaphragm is fully retracted and no more additional vacuum advance is generated. One condition in which little to no vacuum is produced is under wide open throttle. The vacuum advance arm relaxes when your really "giving it some welly". Since no vacuum advance is happening timing is advance purely by mechanical means. The vacuum advance itself usually helps increase fuel efficiency and driveability. In the Z community it is common for the diaphragm to go south, so many of us (myself included until my parts arrive at the local Nissan dealership) are running around with the vacuum diaphragm disconnected from any vacuum source and the manifold ports plugged. I rebuilt two different types of Z car distributors this week so the idea of how the parts inside work is fresh in my mind. The part I didn't know as much about was how engines generate different vacuum over their broad range of operating conditions. Thank you for pointing out our conflicting statements islanddozer. It is not my intention to lead anyone astray and I hope you will continue to contribute in the future.

Did it look like this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104570

Are you talking about this little guy? More vacuum = more timing. Unless the diaphragm inside is cracked. Then it is just a vacuum leak leaning out your engine. It's a bit reversed from what islanddozer said though. At WOT you have almost no vacuum at all. As RPMs rise above a certain point centrifugal force increases your mechanical advance instead. The vacuum actuated dashpot does most of its work at lower rpms. Vacuum pulls that little arm away from the center of the distributor and turns the plate inside the dizzy to which it it attached thus advancing your timing. Again, if it's worn out the arm doesn't move and your engine will be running leaner than it should. If it were me I'd try putting all of the spark plug leads back where they should be and loosening the adjusting screw on the base of the distributor. Then break out the timing light and see if you can't get the timing set to spec by rotating the dizzy and going from there.

I found out what was tripping me up as far as removing the intake from the head. The intake and exhaust manifolds bolt together and I still had one stud holding the exhaust manifold on. To prove my prowess at cleaning otherwise worthless parts and just because I was curious, I disassembled, cleaned, and then reassembled the whole mess. It is an odd arrangement of parts though. The carburetor is a two barrel with a vacuum actuated secondary. The EGR pieces are on an adapter which is bolted to the intake manifold and there is a large tube that runs from the adapter to a flapper valve inside the exhaust manifold. Fuel and air are pulled down through the carb and it looks like they impact direcly onto the hot exhaust manifold before being pulled into their individual runners. Tough to explain, but here are the pictures. Here's the whole mess still bolted together. The carburetor removed And here you can see the underside of the intake manifold where it fits over a cast boss on the exhaust just below the twin 35mm butterflys of the carb. Maybe it's just me, but it doesn't seem productive to bounce your air/fuel mixture off of a hot exhaust manifold before combustion. Some engineer's bright idea I guess. This intake manifold will not work with any other exhaust (well, unless you want to dump fuel all over it or fab a blockoff plate). It'd almost be tempting to flip the intake upside down and try bolting a 4bbl to it, but it'd be way too much fab work to get it anywhere close to working. The fuel rail with dual feeds and a tertiary vacuum line built in. Partially disassembled and thoroughly scrubbed carburetor Mostly back together If anyone was wondering, the intake runners average an ID of 31.8mm where they meet the head, almost exactly the same as any Z EFI manifold. Sorry if this kind of stuff is old hat to anyone overseas, but I thought it was interesting to try an decipher what was going through the minds of the people who made these crazy emissions era contraptions. It's certainly not something performance oriented, but I don't think I'll ever see another one like it floating around over here. Anyone want to buy a nice, big clean JDM paperweight from me?

Happened to me a few times yesterday. I thought it might have been Firefox wigging out so I immediately tried IE but with the same effect. It would go away a minute or two later. I haven't had any problems at all today though.

Yes Interesting find and one I've never seen or heard mention of.

I took a little haitus from posting updates on the 510 so that I could visit the junkyard and gather some more Z related parts. I've been busy cleaning and cataloging my hoard as well as rebuilding a distributor or two. Let's get back to the story though shall we? With all of the major straightening and floor repair taken care of I still had some minor stuff to fix. The rear pans were in good shape but they each had some rust holes beginning to form around the rubber drain plugs. I recycled bits of the floorpans both old and new for my small patch panels. Nothing too serious after what I'd already tackled thus far. Step 1: Cut out rusty piece Step 2: Trim new piece to fit Step 3: Hold new piece level with cleaned edges of old metal Step 4: Weld into place Step 5: Smooth it all out with grinder Step 6: Find different pinhole you'd never noticed before and curse its existence There, the area where the passengers rest their feet is taken care of. After I made sure there were no more pinholes or thin spots hiding it was time to break out the orbital sander and 150 grit to get everything ready for a couple of coats of POR-15. I had an old can that was mostly gone, but there was enough to do a base coat on the rustiest areas before it ran out completely. I let it set up overnight before driving out to the storage unit to retrieve my backup can. Aah, so nice and clean before the tide of enveloping darkness is applied with a 99 cent paint brush.

I debated this myself when I did my engine swap in my roomate/landlord's garage and didn't have all that much space to store a cherry picker. Instead I bought an overhead chain hoist from Harbor Freight for cheap (but with an acceptable weight rating). I did my engine swap in the backyard using a nice thick support beam from an awning. Just one small box in a corner of the garage after that instead of a piece of equipment that could get in the way.

Insanely cool: having a remote control F1 car. Not so cool: Insincerely excited looking guy filming an advertisement for Vodaphone and Motorola products. I wonder what trickery they had to do to keep the car from stalling on takeoff.

You might try downloading the FSM from xenons30.com and reading through the bits on wiring. The more sources of information the better your chances of sorting things out.

Have you tried autozone.com yet? http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1365301/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280071e43

Which wiring diagram do you need, the SR one or the Z chassis and engine bay harness? If the Z harness, then which year Z?

Wow, that came out better than I was imagining it would. Is the rest of the engine bay gonna be color coordinated like that?

Okay, on my '72 the green went to one side of the ballast resistor while the black w/ white stripe went to the other end of it. My wiring diagrams seem to show them just fine.

Have you called AZC to make sure they've got the pistons in stock? Last time I was in the market for some pistons he was sold out and had been for a while.

What year? What Engine? What applicable modifications?

Are you talking about the fitting that screws into the rear of the cylinder head on that side of the block? If not, is it somewhere inline before or after that fitting?

I've seen someone on the net somewhere (gee that's descriptive) use plexiglass to create a substitute plate, but I haven't found the source yet after a little searching. I've also heard of someone else using plastic sign material to recreate his. I'm going to put some more effort into researching this myself as I've got a ZX dizzy I'll be rebuilding on Monday that'll be finding its way into my car.