blue72

How about the Bugatti Model 100 racer? Twin straight eight Bugatti engines with magnesium crankcases to keep the weight down. Too bad it never actually flew as I'm sure it would have been quite a sight had the war not broken out.

Not without fabricating some sort of spacer. The LD28 and L20B decks are taller. 227.45mm vs. 207.85mm

When I had the stock MC my symptoms were 3/4 throw nothing, then grab. I also had a booster which leaked (engine would almost die with foot on brake at a stoplight) After I switched to the larger ZX MC, installed a used booster and later played around with new pads and such it worsened to no significant grab. The brakes were applying, but weakly, and holding the pedal to the floor would only gradually slow it down. That's when I finally searched and found out about the reaction disk. My system was stock though, except for the ZX master cylinder and some fancier pads and shoes. There are some other cases that cause similar symptoms though. For example, from what I've read the guys that install the Toyota 4x4 calipers accidentally upside down and on the wrong sides (can't get all the air out of the lines) usually have some similar pedal problems. Once they switch sides and get the bleeders at the proper altitude they can get rid of the air.

You'll notice that they say they source parts from reputable and well known manufacturers, but they don't tell you which manufacturers for which parts aside from the pistons. There's a thread on classiczcars.com where someone asked the exact same question you just did. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32888

Have you eliminated the possibility of it being the reaction disk yet? Here's my little writeup on it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138712 There are one or two things that usually cause the symptoms you're experiencing, but the reaction disk is the one I'm most familiar with (hence the new subscript under my member name)

Here's one for you, NOS too. You can buy it now for only $1500 USD. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160313521599&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm38%26_nkw%3D160313521599%2B%26_nd1%3D%26_fvi%3D1

It wouldn't happen to be that cheap SBC project on craigslist would it? Looks like the entire rear suspension was removed, but is included with the sale.

Hopefully you can make one car from the two now. At least you'll have plenty of spare sheetmetal.

This one? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118262

I PM'd Xander a little while back and he was kind enough to give me a link to photos of the 3 piece euro manifold: http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html

Just so my measurements don't get too confusing, I did use my cheapie Chinese telescoping bore gauges to take my measurements. That'll account for some minor variation. Even still, just measuring w/ calipers my turbo flange was 43.1 x 56.9 making Noodle's turbo flange quite a bit larger. I also just tabulated the averages for overall port height and width right where the flange meets the cylinder head. Average Height: 38.3mm Average Width outer 4 ports: 37.5mm Average Width inner 2 ports: 39.1mm

Looks incredible. I too would love to know if you ever find a good price for those Impala chrome strips.

Haha. I didn't start thinking about the consequences of my actions until after I hit the submit button. It was only then I presumed I could be seen as a potential target. Now I'll have to donate so I can have the option to choose my own.

You'd be very lucky to find a block with thick enough walls to support that size bore. If you search you will find threads that cover wall thickness and sonic testing as well as acceptable wall thickness for turbocharging. You likely wouldn't be using a L28ET F54 block though. You'll find that out with some searching.

Hmmm, don't remember S130Z's title looking like that 20 minutes ago....

From pictures, the US spec manifolds all look exactly the same on the outside. Updated list US manifolds I've seen pictures of: KN2, KN3, KN4, KN7 and what looks to be KN11. I was mistaken about the WN4, there is no such thing. I had misidentified a KN4. I just received my KN2 last week and here are some particulars in case anyone feels like making comparisons: Bare manifold weight = 17.1 lbs A = 25.8mm diagonally between bumps B = 23.1mm between bumps C = 38.5mm top to bottom Turbo flange inner diameter = 43.6mm x 57.2mm

The jury is still out on whether the webbing on the manifolds acts like a heat sink or heat shield. Most people go with the N42 manifold for looks and to get rid of the EGR business. There are a couple of members here who have cut theirs open to remove the bosses and bumps inside them then rewelded shut. Also makes it easier to port the runners if you have access to both sides. Here's a thread with BRAPP's measurements of runner ID's and some more discussion on this very subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134793

Okay, that makes more sense. I had seen you tell this story in another thread, but you said it was a Y20 head. I assumed you meant Y70 because I had never found any other mention of a Y20:confused:. ozconnection, do you know if the early L20ET manifold has notches on the bottom of the runners to match those on the head?

I think you're a bit off (not you personally, just on this one subject). You might want to do some searching and google around to find the benefits/disadvantages of long rods and short rods. You also have to factor in piston pin height and availability of said pistons. If you have any more questions about a stroker build it might be best to start your own thread. To try and keep this thread on focus, the L28 rods have a center to center length of 130.35mm, not 130mm.

Ideal for what? Rod/Stroke ratio?

The calculators aren't 100% accurate. L28ET block is the same as the L28E block L14 rods = 136.6mm L20a rods = two different lengths 133mm and 135mm depending on year The 135mm L20aE rods have smaller big ends and piston pin ends just like the late L24E here in the states. They're weaker in general, so they should be avoided for performance applications. There are no 128mm L series connecting rods. There is a lot more involved in choosing a piston and rod combination than just punching up a combination in one of the L series calculators.

I have seen it done as well. This particular piece of machinery is only used once every couple of weeks, but I'm still going to have a chat with the employee that left the chuck key in there. Thanks for pointing that out.

I just called NISMO last week to price an LSD for a longnose Z31 case (12mm bolt style carrier). 1.5 way runs $1350.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio There are alot more variables that come into play though, things like fuel composition, combustion chamber shape, forced induction, etc... http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1595/article.html

The one in the craigslist ad looks very clean and comes with the factory literature though. The guy obviously knows a bit about his car.