Nismo280zEd

Ok I snapped a couple pics when i got home from Kemah today. The only thing i can think of is that maybe my cam is making it run hot since that cam has always been in my car. It's a race cam with power from 3k on. Either way... these are the pics.. i made them big so you can really see what's going on. ok they were too big to post in the thread so here are the URL's

The headgasket is brand new, and there is no coolant lose that way, no mixing with the oil either. The belt is new as well, tension is fine, the belt does not slip on the pump pulley. The fans are wired properly as i put my hand behind it and you can feel the hot air hit your hand. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow of the setup. I'm about to take the thermostat out and see if that makes any difference. -Ed

this is correct, the air actually bounces off the windshield to go into the cowl believe it or not. Atleast it did on the old muscle cars. So the cowl hoods on ours prolly are more for disiaption heat as they more than likely arn't close enough to the windshield to get the reverse air, but they might. -Ed

Ever since the car caught fire 3 years ago i don't trust it. So yes mainly fear of driving however i'm driving it tonight to see how it does. I fabed up a little shroud over the top fo the radiator, although if you saw my fans you realizes this is pretty much useless. As my fans are already shrouded. My old timing cover did have cavitation from a cheap sheetmetal waterpump. There is a brand new castiron pump in there with thick solid blades and a new timing cover cavitation free. Distilled water was used although i did add slightly more coolant than water so about a 60 coolant 40 water mix bubble free. The car runs fine when it's above 55-60. So maybe my fans just arn't pulling enough air. Now that i have the palm working with my MS i can see what the temps are while driving. If you think of anything else let me know. Thanx for the help so far guys. -Ed Edit. couldn't make it home cause my now alternator is toast. I hate this car.

OK been messing with this all day and took numerous temps. My original testing was hood open. I did hood closed temps and this time they seemed more realistic... MAT 130 CT 204 LR(Lower radiator) 185 Vent 167 Ok LR is smack in the middle of the radiator on the lowest part... the last row i guess you would say.. The vent is the driverside hood vent. MAT 142 CT 212 LR 190 Vent 188 These were all with 500-600rpm idle. MAT 146 CT 221 LR 195 Vent (the LCD on the temp gauge stoped reading) prolly 190 or a little higher. This was with cooling fans only. I have a heatshield under the intake manifold and the upper half of the header is wrapped. I'm thinking about wrapping the rest of it again. and putting some sort of fan to send the hot air down the tranny tunnel. I pulled the plugs to make sure it's not running too rich and it's not. prolly about 4-5 deg too avanced but i'm doin that to keep my vacumn up around 15in/hg I have a 20psi cap on my radiator as the local store didn't have a 16 or 17psi cap. So this could be a source of additional heat as well. This is just a stock block, not head. The head is ported and polished, OEM lb injectors CNC fuel rail, SS custom return lines. All sensors are working and have been verified. my dad and i figure at idle it pulls about a 25-30 degree drop in temp which is obviously NOT enough. If I mounted bigger cfm fans in front of the radiator... would it be as effective? I don't have much room for fans behind it. -Ed Sorry for the long post... I'm also taking ideas on how to rid the engine bay of heat as i have no underpaneling as it is yet. I'm thinking maybe some louvers from the wheel well? or cut some holes out through the fender?

true... i'm trying to tune my ms right now to get it in the correct zone but it does not smell excessively rich.

ok... this is REALLY starting to agrivate the living sh!t out of me. This car has always run warm, why I don't know, it just has. I always put some of it to the fact it was an F54 block. Ok now it's a different block N47 blcok stock 77 280z. I can't even drive the car cause temps at idle with both fans on are too high. Sensor was reading 232 at 900-1000rpm before i shut it down. the Radiator top right... was reading 210 (that's above the water outlet) Now i have dual cooling fans putn' out about 2400cfm with a Ron Davis AL radiator. I took all the heater junk out.. routed the hose along side the block... temps were still high, today i pluged the holes from the block and put a plug in the hose temps still high. I have test this termostat, full open at 170. My air inlet temp was readn' 74 so i figure about 80 infront of the radiator. Am I SOL here or what? if i do above 60 temps drop drastically so i know it's not the radiator and it's hard to believe it's the cooling fans but i guess it's possible. Any ideas? I've never heard of anybody else having this much trouble with the cooling system. -Ed

I don't run any of that stuff either, I was just curious as to what that one Switch exactly did... seems like it's temperature related. I have one vaumn line to my dizzy, one to my map sensor and one to my brakes... that's it. -Ed

no it uses motronit... more advanced setup than the jetronic, controls ignition too. I'm extremly neverous about drilling and taping a magnesium porsche case though, so i'd like to use all OEM sensors the car came with. except for maybe adding another temp sensor in an oil line or something. -Ed

well palm v1.2 was written for 024 so i'm good. It was pretty sweet to tune the Z with it today, gonna try to load palm edit tomorrow as they said that can save MS settings and fuel logs. -Ed

Seriously stop hating on the guy. This is hybrid Z ... for MODIFYING your Z there is not right or wrong way, if he likes it... that's all that matters. Some of you need to think before you type a response. His wing for instance, if he likes it let him keep it.. It's his car. NOT YOURS. This is why people are afraid of our site, people jump all over thier @sses. Lighten up guyz it's not your car. -Ed

My father and I are kicking around this idea. A stock ECM for his car is 700 bucks. Megasquirt can be had for around 300. However, it's an oil cooled car, and i've only installed MS on water cooled and helped tune that way, so I'm kinda hesitant to go that way with the car, although it would provide worlds or tuning compared to the stock Motronic unit. What are your thoughts or opinions concerns? -Ed

I'll have my basemap up later if i can find my flash drive.. but it's for 280z not turbo. But it is 024s13 code. -Ed

yeah i've got a thread going on over at msefi.com I saw your threads. I just dont' know where to actually select or type in the code i'm using on the palm. Roger said he'd walk me through.. but any help is good help. -Ed

this is true... they arn't drag clutches, they are performance street clutches. I don't know of anybody blown' out a centerforce from just shifting... honestly i don't know of anyone that has blown a centerforce until this thread. -Ed

sounds like we got a bunch of busy Z guys

I just need some good rings, had the OEM ones prematurely fail on me. I found this thread, I don't know alot about the difference between cast iron and chrome moly rings, but they seem to be recomended with the chrome top ring... -Ed

Next time i'm at Lowes I'll pick some up. I do have an F54 block... so i don't really want any unecessary additional heat. -Ed

Finally!!! Got the Palm to work with the MS I should be drivn' again very soon, just gotta see what's up with the sensors, still running rough. -Ed