Nismo280zEd

these are the first rustoleum pics I've seen with encouraging results. So... I guess you have to sand through like half a layer of rustoleum? I might do this instead of the rattle can I've been doing as rolling it on would be alot easier. Until I get a garage again.

Is that the OEM engine in that Alfa? it looks alot like a nissan motor.

got my Konigs in the other day... here are thumbnails click for larger pic Not super deep dish wheels or anything... just to give you and idea from the mounting surface. The Z is gonna look so mean.

that's awesome!

so i saw a setup on TV where a compnay uses two intercoolers to lower there air intake temp instead of a massive huge FM. So i was thinking... would using two ZX intercoolers effectively provide say 50% more cooling..than one.. assuming the stock intercooler is like 40-50% extra so with two... thats an extra 100% for both... anybody agree or disagree?

isn't the S13 double wishbone?

does the 300zx throw a hotter spark than a performance 280 coil?

I'm leaning toward the 300zxt diff and shafts at the current time. Just have to figure out how to mount it all in there.

why would the speed or amount of air going through the rad change the fluid pressure inside of it? (not talking about the fluid cooling and decreasing pressure)

what's the rear mount? custom mustache bar? slick setup!

Ok... so there is a ton of information on rear ends and suspension and CV conversions, hubs, etc, etc, etc. So much information that i can't figure out the pros and cons from the others besides price and install difficulty. At first i thought 280zx CV's would be perfect for my 280. Then i frowned upon the 3ball bearing design. Then i found you can swap in toyota truck CV's just ahve to machine 4 brackets and you can bolt them in. Still a possibility... but one of the brackets has to be less than 1/4 thick... seems a little thin to me to hold lots of torq and hp. So i started thinking... hmm i could swap an entire 240sx subframe use a shortnose r200 and the factory CV's... well... lookn' at some pics... looks like the 240sx CV's use the same 3 ball bearing as the 280zx CV's. Ok so i'm thinking... might as well just do a R230 swap with basically the entire rear, but them i'm wondering if i want to go 5lug or not. Seems much easier to stay 4. So at this point i'm stuck.. I have no idea what to do with the rear of my car. The stock r200 either needs a rebuild or a new one and the halshafts are toats.. 3rd set. I'm rebuilding it to be a turbo car so i want to beef up the rearend while i'm replacing these components anways. Please help... lost in a sea of information. I guess i should mention i'd like to go LSD too.

i know CAD but i can't do 3d stuff in it besides ISO drawings... very basic stuff. I ordered two they'll be at my door late this week early next !! gunmetal with polished lip for me

wow.... i can't believe they finally did it!!! About time they make an affordable wheel that bolts up to the Z. I can finally sell my wheel spacers!!! keep us posted on the quote for the wheel 16x10 would be perfect on the back for my Z

I don't know if I'd go that far... the SR20DET isn't that great of a motor honestly. the 4G63 is a much superior block as they've been tuning that block for what like 10 or 12 years in rally racing?

I think i'll go without my eyes are pretty good right now as i don't wear glasses. No sense in speeding that process up.

Ok so i'm not new to welding but i am by far no means an expert. I can weld enough to do my own fab work, exhausts, intake, sheet metal repair... etc. Well After doing several exhausts and random odds and ends for two years i feel i'm getting pretty good. Good enough to tackle structural pieces. So i was browsing through Triple S Steel online store as they come recomended and they are local to me in Houston. I can across these magnifiers that drop in your welding hood. Anybody had experience with these? Seems like a good idea but at the same time might be annoying. here's the link http://sssonlinestore.com/detail.aspx?id=42225 -Ed

I guess i'm a little late on this thread... just wanted to say Magnecore wires are excellent. I run them on my MS with bosch p2 plugs. Glad to hear you got it working and finally got to drive your Z!!!!

My thoughts exactly.

You need to flip it upside down if you plan to use the TPS with it... otherwise you'll have clearance issues... Also.. I recomend you swap with the 240 throttle cable as well so you don't have to try to link it up to the Z linkage. Just use the 240sx gasket and it will seal right up. I would say port match it as well.. I had to take ALOT of metal out of my intake for it to match up. -Ed

I've had some problems with yoko's dry routing before they even got worn down. (houston, tx) I run kumohs on my car and my girls we run the 711's though on our 17s. They discontinued the tire though it's replaced with the MX i believe... not sure...but the 711's are just awesome for what you spend on them.

wtf? do you know why they did this? I'm assuming it was on OEM cars.

I think i can grab a pic of the scope read out with my digital camera. Won't be able to try this till tuesday at the earliest.

lol My Z used to be blue on the sides like that and white on top. Kinda funny to see it come back again. Gets alot of attention that way (as if you don't get enough looks already lol) Nice vents... like those better than the ones i made. -Ed

I do have a scope to see if the signals are clean or not... however... I got it from a fellow board member.. and I'm not an expert on using it.. I know how to test signal and such.. but how do i see if the ground is clean? Put the scope ground to the battery "-" and the probe to the chassis ground point?

If you look under the tunnel... the Z actually has the cable run down the driverside (ebrake) just the handle is on the passenger... it wouldn't be very hard at all to switch sides.