Nismo280zEd

the yellow and black wire on my 78 went to the gauge... there was a yellow wire as well. I believe that went to the fuel pressure realy if the car is still stock. look in the electronics section of the forum and you should be able to find the wiring diagram for the 77 and 78 280s. -Ed

Didn't make to the machine shop in time this morning, first thing tomorrow though. I did some more investigating. I checked the grounds again cause something is still not feeling right... I did it with the car on this time and found something very odd. from battery to ms ground reads zero. from bat to sensor ground reads zero (ohms of course). tps ground to bat reads zero, but from tps ground to ms read betwee 7.5-11.9 ohm kept jumping, some sort of interference. Then from the MS ground to the sensor ground read 9.4 ohm. Same for tps to sensor ground 9.4ohm. when the car is turned off however, they all read 0-.1ohm. So i must be getting some sort of line feed back through a ground with something else. Tomorrow I'm going to make a bus bar and have it for dedicated ECU grounds, sensor, tps, ms with a direct 8ga from the battery neg. Hopefully that will solve the interference. Also the MS isn't powering on now, so i'm blaming the grounds as i checked all the power wires and they read about 12.1-12.3 volts. More joys.

That's what i figured too when i saw it jumping, my CLT is grounded to the head pretty much with a bolt above the water pump that holds on the water bypass rail. The IAT is grounded back to the MS. I checked voltage the other day.. both 4.9V steaady no spikes. check ground, both read about .1ohm and read the same to body metal, engine metal, and bat neg. So it's not the direct ground from the sensors. So i figured MS ground like you mentioned. so i ran a jumper from where the ms is grounded to where the clt is grounded. Didn't change any ohm readings. I don't have the laptop now, should be able to use it tomorrow so i can't verify if it's jumping or not, however, the CLT did read 207 and up to 210 when i shut if off last night. I did the same thing i did last night, let it idle up real hot, turned on both cooling fans, same as last night. Then stuck a meat thermometer on the AL at the radiator inlet pipe. While runing it read right at 160 maybe 161. turn the car off went up to about 175 at the hotest. The outlet temp while running was about 130-140 I couldn't get a good reading as of the location. Either way... I don't see how the CLT would read 20-50 degrees higher than the radiator inlet metal. I did kinda ghetto rig the CLT sensor when i first put together the MS I had to grind the threades off the senor, then put JB weld around where the threads used to be and put it into the thermostat housing. I'm starting to think that might be throwing the temp off but i don't see how as it is remotely grounded. Either way i'm taking my spare housing to the machine shopt tomorrow to get some 3/8 NPT threads cut into one of the holes now that i have the money to pay for it. -Ed

all nissans with drums asjust this way... you use the ebrake to tighten it.

Yeah man you know me, I make all my own harnesses. I'm buying the actual DB25? DB32 whatever the number of pins are. I'm buying a pre made harness lead from DIY it has the DB37 with like 10" of wire leads, I used 14 ga wire for all my stuff so it's too big for the connector. I think that's causing solder to ground out and stuff. The harness if 50 bucks, either that or i buy another connector and some thin ga wire like 18 maybe and do it again myself. Anyway i'm at work now, see what happens when i get home with the car. -Ed

you prolly wouldn't make enough to pay for your gas to the swap meet.

I've been working with fiberglass for years.. it's really not that hard to get the waves out, not harder than a wavy roof or wavy door. Just have to cross sand and flat sand it. But hey it's your car. -Ed

this is a brand new IAT sensor, the old one does the same thing. I'm leaning on CLT sensor... I think water got inside it somehow and was causing grounding issues... anyway.. i loaded up some heavy fuel maps and got it to run with both sensors... made another log of that.. gonna have to get the G/F to send it to me so i can post it. The CLT would just 10 degrees up and down like a bad ground. finally steadied out at what it said was 207 i let it go up to 210 then cut the engine and left the fans on. Let it cool back down. I also took the DB37 i think it is.. connector from the back of the ecu.. used a straw and a razor blade, insulated every other wire with the thin plastic to keep things from grounding on another. That might have helped also. It's still jumpn' about 2-3 degrees. But it's much better. Still tracing it down little by little. I'll try to get the logs up tonight but no gaurentee... been up since 6am with 4hrs sleep. -Ed

OK... trying playing with the ground, didn't do anything. I unplugged the coolant senosr.. and just ran the IAT and guess what.. it works. so it's not the sensors. I made a log of what happens when i plug in both sensors at the same time, i'll try to post that tonight. Is it ok to run on CLT only? -Ed

OK so i got to borrow the g/f's laptop today. Hooked it up... started the car... adjusted the timing so i got the lowets kpa number. Then pluged in the MAT sensor and it just about dies... after a couple tries i figured out what was going on, the map sensor reads back up to 98 which is about normal here. Still trying to figure out why at the moment and how to fix it. -Ed

actually i don't have a check valve in it. That burnt' up in the fire a couple years back. I do have a vacumn bottle on it though.. guess I could rig the check valve from it to the brakes. The valve should allow the engine to suck on the booster but not the other way around I assume? -Ed

I believe porsche does this... the rear brakes your foot uses are different from the rear brakes your e brake uses. -Ed

I'm into programming, I liked the fact that MS can be edited. For the most part it's open source. You don't pay for the code, you pay for the box and the chip. Then you pick whatever code you want to run. Upgrading it later is quite easy as well. NOt to mention i'm in college and Sh*t broke, so the DIY kit was defintaly priced well for me -Ed

The CLT is connected, nothing was changed except the actual motor. The last motor blew a ring, so this is the spare motor i had in the garage. Hickl's 77 L28, and my head but with a felpro headgasket instead of my 1mm metal. Everything else is identical. I'll double check the ground on the CLT tomorrow. -Ed

ok so i took a pic of the pin in the booster today. There is a screw that goes into a shaft or pin. the screw uses a 7mm wrench, then the shaft just has like a groved piece to hold onto... I tried channel locks, locking pliers, vise grips. Nothing can hold the shaft while i try to turn the pin. Any ideas? I'm assuming this is the proper way to adjust the ZX booster -Ed

You should try what i did tonight, take the line that goes to the brake booster, stuff a sharpie in it. Then go drive the car. Mine stops better without the booster. -Ed

So the car won't start and run unless i pull the air temp sensor wiring off... figuring it was a bad sensor i picked one up from O'Reillys earlier today. It wasn't the sensor, car smells rich, and as soon as i put the sensor connector back on, it starts to die. Any ideas? I don' thave a laptop avalaible to diagnose it right now. -Ed

so i read through the ongoing pages of "calling all racers" to try and find my answer, but no luck. I'm wondering what spring rates the bilsteins metnioned in the thread... P30-0032 are good for? I have 25% stiffer springs than stock now, and want to go coild over later, nothing super stiff, just want the car more adjustable. I've heard good recomendations about the bilsteins, but nothing about what spring rates they are good for. thanx, Ed

Been doing alot of searches and just need some confirmation to make sure i get this right before really screwing things up... as my pedal is now... i have to just about STAND on the dang pedal to get the thing to stop. It's like it doesn't have any booster, but i can tell it does. I used to run webers, not much vacumn, had them hooked up to a vacumn bottle, they worked fine then, now that i switched to FI and have much better vacumn it seems like the brake booster is almost overloaded maybe? So i'm not sure which direction to turn the rod on the brake booster? Clockwise or counter clockwise... i'm thinking it needs to be lengthened but i don't want to start lenghtening it and have the disc drop out the back. I tried this a couple weeks ago.. but i didn't want to turn it too much.. only did like two turns either way and it didn't seem to make much difference to me. So are we talking like 10+ turns? or...? -Ed

or just sell them to me.. my interior is already black lol j/k -Ed

I'm actually trying to source the plastic zip ties as well. They come with most radiator fans (aftermarket) but i can't seem to find where to buy the plastic zipties to replace them. I'm talking about the black usually plastic miniature probe looking pieces that go through the radiator and use a plastic locking mechanism on the other side to hold the fan to the radiator. Kinda like a ziptie but no loop. -Ed

ask and you shall recieve.

I couldn't agree more, I'd still like a copy of the 2003 pdf as i'm sure all the sensor part numbers are the same and the principals etc don't change that much. -Ed EDIT: I just got off the phone with O'Reillys Auto Parts, and the part # for the open element temperature sensor is WT382 <

yes and no at the same time. Kinda two ways of going about it... you can try to keep air from going under the car... or... put the air that is going under the car to work for you. Or a combination of both. -Ed but yes.. smoother and flater the bottom of the car is the more stable at speed it's going to be.

I haven't looked over in a while... I guess i need to go check it out again. Browsed through the summit catalog this morning didn't see them... did you find them on the website? -Ed