Nismo280zEd

my bad

cheaper than 20 w/ tax? I was going to try and get one from O'Reillys so it had a lifetime warranty on it. -Ed

ok so MS uses GM style sensors, for ease of replacement. How come trying to find a part number is so hard then? I managed to find the sealed style water/air temp sensor... #DETS10138 but what is the code for the open element sytle? anybody know? -Ed Edit.. found it #SIAX34 & #SIAX1 & #SIATS13 These codes were found off a 90 transam, i'm sure there are cheaper ones.

Mike, you know these answers. I'm with Olie. Swap in an L28, do a mild head job with good components and some heavier springs, a mild cam and say a 3angle valve job to help her flow. put on a nice header, run CAI, run MS on it, add a five speed and man your set. You can't beat the MS for price and ease. When something goes sour it's like 6 bucks for a new sensor. And usual still runs without, just pig rich. -Ed

I didn't even think about added pressure form internally. I'll check the EGR and PCV tomorrow. -Ed

LoL... I try to but Sh*t keeps breaking, I drive it more like a an MR2 now. Until my wallet catches up with my driving style. Till then i'll drive the 911 like a Porsche. -Ed

yeah but your looking at this very narrow mindedly. Your assuming your going straight with no other air. In real world driving you turn, wind blows, you have tail wind, head wind, etc. All of these factor in. My point is taking this to an extreme, some of the things your trying to accomplish with eliminating vortexes around the wheel well are kinda pointless in my opinion... what happens when you turn? that big *** tire sticks out into oncoming air... see what i'm getting at? I'm not bashing you or flaming you, i'm saying you should just add underbelly panels to help reduce drag since your going through all this effort. I still don't see how blocking off the bottom of the car will overheat my engine, the radiator is mounted infront and uses oncoming air to make it effective, i'm not using the air from under the car to cool my engine coolant. All i was originally staing in my first post was that the silver piece you mounted from the middle of the airdamn to the top of the radiator core support is not helping in down force, all it is doing is directing air to the radiator. I know what a splitter does and have no problem with it. -Ed

yeah i realize lowering the car does not change the principles of the air speed going over and under, but to keep some of the air from going under. I was simply trying to prove my point that the front airdamn was not designed mainly to split the air to the sides of the car, but like you said for down force. As you mentioned the shape of the car, and how the air moves around it I compare it to an airplane wing. The wing is one of the most airdynamic pieces made. So you look at that and understand how that works. And try to do the opposite or Reverse I guess to a car, that's my thinking. The car moves faster over the top than the bottom as you mentioned thus creating a low pressure creating lift. Cars would want the opposite of that if you wanted to go to the extreme, although i'm pretty sure it's next to impossible for street as the shape of the car itself fights the principle. Thus my thinking to make the air under the car move faster than the air over the car. Well i'm going to go install my underpaneling that is going to "over heat" my engine now... -Ed

I was just concerned about passing state inspection, not really the actual "legality" of the upgrade, half the things on my car are illegal technically. Driving around I drive on my hallogen highbeams all the time anyway cause of all the HID cars here. I just know when i show up to get my 20$ inspection, they want to see a low beam and a high beam. I guess like you said bi-xenon is the way to go. I guess i'll start saving. -Ed

lmao.. i still play that game. good stuff lol

I don't want to burst anybodies bubble here, but how are these going to pass state safety inspection? TX checks to make sure your low and highbeam work. My understanding of HIDs is that they are on or off. Or do the ones from the X5 has some sore of way of resolving this? -Ed

Having huge problems with my maxima leaking. So it started a couple months back, my dad pulled in the drive we notice a bad oil leak. Thought it was coming from the dampener, ordered the crank seal and replaced it. Still leaked. More investigating suggested it was coming from the back of the upper timing cover. Tore down the side of the engine, took off the cam gears and back cover, bingo. The Engine Left seal or if you were looking at the passenger side of the car, the right hand side camshaft seal was leaking oil. So we replaced the seals with ones from (http://www.thepartsbin.com) these still leaked, took it apart noticed the inner part had folded it (prolly from install). So we took those out and put another set in from the same place making sure the inner piece of the seal didn't fold out on itself again. Joyfully we started it up... a couple minutes later, oil leak. Tore it down again, bought Nissan OEM seals, made a custom tool to install them (piece of pipe with washers and bolt). Installed them while rotating the pipe every 1/4 turn to ensure they went in flat and not angled. Started the car again two nights ago... this time it lasted 7 min before leaking, and didn't leak as much. Any ideas? We are putting oil leak stop in the engine tonight as a last resort. Never had this problem with a seal before. The heads on this car were rebuild late last year so they are relatively low milege. under 5k. Please Help before i shoot the thing. -Ed

The whole purpose of the front facia is not to force air to the sides of the car. If you think that air does not go under you car while driving your just not being realistic. It is necessary for air to go UNDER the car in order to get downforce ontop of the car. the whole idea is to get the air that goes under the car to move faster than the air going over the car, thus creating a low pressure zone or if you look at indy cars, even a suction. By lowering the car you are forcing the air that goes under the car to accelerate in a smaller space to get back out. Think of it like water, yes the air does go around the car, but air going around the car doesn't help to provide ground force or lift. Otherwise there would be wings and spoilers on the sides of cars. Most front facia/splitters are trying to "scoop" up more air to push it over the car. Now the silver "shround" you installed that goes from the middle of your spoiler down to the top of the radiator brace is simply directing the air, air above the middle of that splitter is going into the radiator/engine compartment. Air below is hitting the underside of that silver shroud, the radiator core support, the radiator, and whatever ever else gets in it's way, but unless the whole bottom of you car is covered, they are going to meet back up in the engine compartment. As for your comment about the engine overheating if i put paneling under the car that is nonsense. Look at ALL new cars. They have plastic paneling blocking off as much of the underside of the car as possible. Look at the fastest cars in the world, they all have under body paneling for multiple reasons. Even the pics you posted of the rear diffuser. By paneling the bottom of the car it forces the air coming into the front facia to go through the radiato and not down out the bottom (which would be the path of least resistance). Also.. Nissan put vents in the hood for a reason, but i dont think it was for airodynamic reasons. I believe it was more to alleviate the heat produced on the driver side of the engine. At anyrate, if the front airdamns sole purpose was to force air to the sides why wouldn't it just it be shaped like a big wedge? two planes going to the left and right. -Ed EDIT: Sorry for the long post but i wanted to get my point across.

After mine caught fire i was overwhelmed as well. I had no idea what to do first, but man you just gotta take it one step at a time, baby steps man. I even was trying to get out of Z's completly but Mike (ON3GO) convinced me i'd be a retard for doing so. Now my car is starting to look pretty good. Baby steps man, anytime you get that deep into a project and you try to imagine the finished image your gonna get overwhelemd. On a side note, your Z is actually pretty rust free man. I've seen alot worse. As Z's go... that's pretty good. You don't have any really big holes besides that one rear fender. -Ed

holly mother of wideness, that's gonna be HUGE! -Ed

looks good but 7 coats of clear? Overkill man. I usually spray 4 but i spray heavy, I guess if you spray light... at anyrate it looks pretty good for amateur work man. Looks nice and flat not wavy from the pics you posted. Black is notories for showing flaws, nicely done. -Ed

Olie's right... i missed that in your post... the fans have to be flush mount on the radiator.. OR... a shroud has to be flush mount to the radiator then to the fans. You'll prolly pull better cooling with the shroud actually, just a little more work on your part. -Ed

They shouldn't be torqued that much, that's why they break.

there are several places in houston that supply bolts and nuts in bulk. Boltdepot.com i think it one, just do a google search. As far as grade, depending on the suspension piece I would say grade 8 as that is what is commonly used for brakes in the industry. Also.. I think nissan used a grade 5 or 7 for the fenders, they don't really require i hole lot of strength. I'd say grade 5 should be more than sufficient. -Ed

So I was lookn' at the block I'm about to tear down in my garage, Yes I agree I believe it's metric not NPT. Anyway.. i was lookn' at it.. and I had some M10 bolts lieing around... tried threading a couple in. M10x1.50 is standard pitch i believe for that size. I also tried an M10x1.25 that threaded a little.. so i'm guessing it's even a finer thread than that... say M10x1.00? I guess that is the equivalent of fine thread. I'll have to get a bolt ot know for sure though. -Ed

I can't get the MS logger to work either. It acts like it never did anything about a 2 min recording. -Ed

anybody?

HID uses a special gas to ignite, it requires somewheres around like 20k volts to initially light it up, after that it draws less current than a normal halogen headlight. So I'm pretty sure an LED can't be HID but, they could shape the HID bulbs differently to look light LEDs. -Ed

lol you always keep me on my toes Mike. never a dull moment man lol. -Ed