Nismo280zEd

Nice Job... Have fun.

Wow man.. your one luck SOB!! Car looks incredible... somebody musta taken good care of her previously. I've never seen a 240 without rust on the driver floor board. It looks like you car made it over from Japan on the boat where as they drug mine through the ocean the whole time lol. Good Luck on the project, you have a great starting slate. -Ed

I gave up on the webers... They sit on a shelf in my garage till i have the money to build a car that likes them. Running custom fuel injection with MSnSE. Even on a bad day it runs better than the carbs ever did. -Ed

Hey Mike... I was wondering if you could email me some large pics of the car so that i can have them in my portolio for future jobs, etc. The ones I took with my camera at my house pixelated for some reason. Thanx man. -Ed

Makes sense.... If i see higher temps I might put the heater valve back in just to block the flow. -Ed

i'll have to paypal you later -Ed

anybody selling a VG30E or know of someone who is? let me know. -Ed

so for a stock 280 internals with F54 block.. Deves rings are the way to go? -Ed

Well i swear by my centerforce clutches.. but i don't run them with turbos either. I run a stage 2 not the dual friction.. and i swear by it... even when 3/4 of the material was gone from the disc.. it drove me around for 2 weeks... never slipped and didn't burn the flywheel. Honestly you never woulda guessed it was bad except for the slight chimmy out of first. The only reason it broke was cause it sat for 5 years. -Ed

I dont' want to get into a pissing contest here.. but what your saying is that the tube from the back of the block is an outlet for hot water and not an inlet. But according to your diagramn the water from the back of the block flows up and out the thermostat. Now i maybe wrong here... but I was under the impression that the long hose from the pump supplied water to the core and that the small hose to the block was the outlet from the core. so It would be acting like an inlet to the core. But like i said i could be wrong... as it would make sense for the pump to pull the water... meaning the long hose would actually be the heater core outlet and dump water in like you said. that diagramn doesn't show anything to do with the heater so it's kinda guess and tell unless somebody has pulled a hose off while running.

lmao... dude.. how'd you know his blinker fluid was low ROFL nice...

haven't checked it but i can smell fuel while cranking... problem is no spark. -Ed

OH boy.. what a thread to start Mike lol. 78 2+2 Running MSnSE but just fuel for now. Still having problems with it. Ground intereference, etc. Should be running clean soon. Gutted the HVAC yesterday. Started taking up the lead sound deadener on the floor board yesterday as there is some surface and medium scale rust under it. Ordered the boat paint for it last night. All OEM gauges working except for temp (waiting on a sensor and retaining nut) Interior to start today, have to redesign center counsole and arm cushion area. Cleaned up all the passenger side wiring (mike remembers that mess) budgetting to redo my fuse box and relay board again, this time going to smaller ATC fuses instead of the glass ones i wanted to keep before. Still needs new WS and RW seals as they are leaking on heavy rain. 89 911 Carrera Still can't figure out why it won't start, replaced speed sensor, reference sensor, cap , rotor, DME relay, coil. I have a feeling it might be the DME ECM which is about 700$ on average. For now she sits on stands. 93 Maxima GXE SOHC Still leaking from the camshaft seals, I'm about positive it's the actual cam lobe that is scratched causing the leak. Seals have been replaced three times now. Leaks about a quart or less every week. 96 Maxima GLE DOHC developing a bad starting problem have to look into it. Still awaiting paint on front bumper and front fender. Also developing an oil leak. Did I mention i'm moving in a month on top of all this? lol -Ed

they have some pretty cool stuff... thanx. -Ed

odd that the flashers work and not the blinker, i would first think the switch, but if that tested out... maybe check the grounds. -Ed

OK.. your bypassing the heater valve, yes.. less restriction but effectively is the same as running the heater in the ON position constantly. If you feel you need addes restricion put a piece of 5/8 OD pipe in the line.. that will neck down the ID and increase youre "restriction". But logically thinking about this... the water used to go into the core air blows over the evaporator... thereby cooling the water at the same time.. then the water gets dumped back in. But the water that was going into the core.. was the outlet water from the radiator so assuming the car has 180 thermostat... with a good radiator your lookn' at 160 deg inlet temp to the core. So if you dump 160 deg water back into the block without going through the heater and all of it's mess of hoses... essential your dumping still colder than operating temp water into the engine. See where i'm going with this? It's not like you pump is going to be starved for water. -Ed

i think Black Dragon Auto does (former Victoria British). I think i saw the silver and a black version of the trim that goes in the rubber seal. I"m curious as my windshield is toast and i see signs around here 149 new windshield installed... how hard is this to do? -Ed

yeah... can't find one big enough for my floor it's like a 2" or 2 1/2" It's a big boy. I'll check again tomorrow... maybe i just "overlooked" it before... As my mother always said... "if it were a snake it woulda bit ya". I guess i have selected site sometimes lol. -Ed

I was lookn' around Victoria British tryn' to find my temp sender and nut and a check valve for the brakes, I saw a "Vacuum Switch" that is on the 280z's. As my car is far from stock... I was curious if anybody could tell me what it switched and where it goes? just kinda curious. I don't have my F/M anymore... I think the ex has it in Lubbock -Ed

yeah i was looking for a removable solution... i guess i'll fab up some ruber/metal covers for some. -Ed Still not sure what to do about the floors.

So those of you who have COMPLETLY removed the HVAC system what are you doing about all the holes in the firewall? I've got about 7 of them in varrying sizes.... also what about floor pan plugs... what are you guyz doing about those? I can't find replacements for them. -Ed

if it's pegged at 254 check your grounds, that's what it sounds like to me. -Ed

when you take off the rear drum... you'll see how the e-brake works... there is a notched wheel and a kind of brace that holds the wheel from going the opposite ddirection... so you pull the ebrake... the wheel rotates and as it rotates it moves the pads closer to the drum each time. So either the pads are gone.. of the notched are rounded off like one of mine. -Ed

get some volks 15x7 zero offset... should cost about 1200 for all 4 and they weigh 9lbs. unless that's too modern for ya. -Ed