Nismo280zEd

Not really, for their sake it makes much more sense to modify the formula to water base to get the epa off their *** for a little while. We are the consumer, without us, their is no demand, with no demand, no companies to supply. There is demand therefore there are companies. I gaurantee the ceo's are not going to just throw in the towel, they will squeeze ever last scent they can. Plus... think about this... ok so lacquer goes away they go to water base... ok. So the paint doesn't last as long, and it's cheaper or the same price, they are not making even more money and complying to federal regulations. Now you buy twice as much paint cause it doesn't last as long. Think of it as light bulbs, they can make a light bulb that will never burn out, but what's the point? Then your consumer buys one and never again. Otherwise it would cost so much you would never buy it. Honestly.. you go to the store... do you buy the .99c light bulb... or the 10$ light bulb? unless that 10$ light bulb is going to save you money by using electricity, your not going to buy it. Supply and Demand my friends, simple business is all it is. -Ed BTW... they tried to do the same thing with the aftermarket industy a couple years back... yet there are still aftermarket car parts around. Think Business, the government just wants a cut.

are you running the KA transmission with the redtop? -Ed

wow man... all that money on nice SS header and mandrel pipes and your gonna put a 50 dollar tanabe muffler on it? They are junk in my opinion. If you want deep base, Skunk 2 makes a nice deep muffler but it'll probably be too much drone for you. My magnaflow is deep on the low end and sweet on the top, had a little bit of raspyness on top end but i installed a premuffler and it got rid of it. LOTS of guys run magnaflows on here. But if your spending all that money, might as well get a muffler with a waranty... my magna has a lifetime warranty on it. -Ed

I've got a used filler hose in great condition sell it cheap if ya want it. -Ed

lol by the weight of your foot? lol

I'd like to know if anybody else has done this... i looked up the price of the CV axle from the toyota they are 65 bucks with a 25 dollar core charge for brand new with a 7 yr 70,000 mile warranty. so 130 bucks plus 50 in core charge and some machining cost... seems like this would be the cheapest/best solution. -Ed

Ok, today i checked under the car as i heard the dreadful clicking noise, sure enough... driver halfshaft has play. This is my second set of half shafts and i'm only N/A now running MS. I know guys running 15psi and not tearing up these. I never drop my clutch, and i don't pop it when i shift. As that's what destroyed my first set. I'm looking for a way to either beef them up or fix them so they don't grenade on me yet again. I was told my suspension is too soft in the rear by a guy at a machine shop. It has MSA performance springs on it... so i'm kinda weary toward that but maybe it has merit. Either way... any "Ghetto" ideas are welcome as i'm a broke college student and can't afford Ross's crazy priced bling parts to go CV. (Even though that would be the permenant solution). -Ed

so I'm not the only one with a nissan comp cam Finally i know the stats!!! -Ed

Not to call you out or anything, but the most i've ever gotten from my Z was 24mpg and that was with everything in tip top shape. With the MS i've already gottn 27

My friend is currently serving his mission as well... he comes back in July I can't wait haven't seen him in 2 years. Only been about to talk to him 2 maybe 3 times. Hang in there man. As you mission comes closer to the end you might have some time to buy some parts in japan for all us Z lovers? Take Care -Ed

lol yeah that's just the way the pics happend to lay out. I'm currently driving the car and as long as i'm moving it's fine, just sitting at redlights and such it creeps up quick. Yes the thermostat is fully functioning and i can see fluid flow through the core. I've been sourcing the net the last two days to try and find a table i once had. It showed the minimum cfm needing to cool engine by liters. I'd be very interested in this if anybody has it. Doing more research I don't feel so confident that my fans put out the cfm i previously quoted. I have a feeling they put out around 1500 cfm combined from everything i've gathered. -Ed

that's an interesting test but on my rondavis the filler neck is off to the side at a 45deg angle... so there will always be some air. -Ed

cool. looks clean. I'm working on a LED light strip myself for the turnsignals similar to the 350. -Ed

lol i bet that pissed ya off. lol. Yeah i'm fully functional with the software, but I'd really like to be able to save my maps like I could with the laptop. I might talk with Roger about doing some code with him for it. the tungsten has 50mb on it and a 256mb removable memory stick. Plus... I can't post maps unless I go take a digital pic, but even that doesn't show the whole fuel map on the palm lol. -Ed

just wanted to comment on this.. I just replaced a starter that "clicked" sounded like it was hung up on the flywheel or something, turns out it was the starter solenoid. so that logic even though it clicks doesn't mean it works, the motor was fine, the solenoid wasn't but it still "clicked" -Ed

lol i've had the exact same hose do that... right along the top edge right? lol. Megasquirt will save you time and money in the future. Right now you don't know why the car won't start... if you had megasquirt installed you can diagnose it and check everything one by one to find the source of the problem instead of educated guessing. Also as mentioned... nissan parts are expensive... megasquirt was designed for regular GM sensors... dirt cheap w/ lifetime warranties on them at most parts stores. Also.. the stock fuel injection was a nightmare of a rats nest. Atleast I think so. The MS allows you to ditch just about everything you see on that manifold except vacumn lines for your brakes, dizzy, A/c heater if you run it and the fuel rail. It's a much cleaner setup and your milege will be better once tuned. Ok now that that's said... I feel your pain from the hose so i'll be nice. First things first, when a car doesn't start immediatly check to see if it has spark. Use a spare spark plug plug it into a wire... put the plug on the valve cover and crank... if it sparks your ignition is fine... and it's fuel. If you have pulled a plug and found it wet... you have fuel or can smell the excesse fuel. Then you have an air problem. Even with bad temp sensor, afm etc the car will still initially spark and start. Check those first, then go through all the expensive parts. -Ed

From my understanding of this post yeah... I think there is supposed to be around a 100 degree drop from inlet to outlet. I'm not real worried about clogged passages as i ran redline water wetter before to kind of "bandaid" the problem and it's supposed to remove deposits etc. as long as you use it with distilled water. I might try the jetdry trick though in the future Thank you again for all the help with this ongoing problem. -Ed

Well i got the car working again, But it's as ghetto as ever. Went and bought a brand spankn' new 125amp alt w/ lifetime warranty from O'riely. Was 130 with a 75$ core I believe. I had to actually run a wire from my fuse box to the back of the alternator, this doesn't really make logical sense to me, but that's how 3 nissan wiring diagramns show and it seems to like it. Somehow it uses that to regulate voltage. Either way.. i have 12.5V at idle now on a battery that is only charged to 12 volts after all the drain from the last couple days. The MS seems to be very happy now that it has isolated grounds. Doesn't seems to have as much noise interference. Still not quite sure how to save fuel maps with the palm. -Ed

yeah man, the palm tune program is awesome and i got the edit program to work.. but still confused on how i can actually save the fuel maps to the palm. So that i can edit them while not plugged into the car. My alternator blew the other night.. so i'm workn' on a replacement... so till then it's jackstand racing again. -Ed

I did a couple google searches and froogle, for "JetSol" and "Jet Sol" I didn't come up with anything... I'm guessing this is some sort of cleaning chemical like seafoam? Yeah I plan to try running without the thermostat tomorrow cause then i know it's a problem with the head passages. -Ed As for the fans... I've had them for 2 or so years, they were brand new with the radiator AFTER I rebuilt from the fire. The fire engulfed the front half of my car, I've rewired everthing but the tailights basically. I think i still have some pics in my members album.

I'm researching adding say a 4" high cfm blower fan in the engine bay to blow the hot air down the tranny tunnel, I think the tranny will take the heat just fine, but the vent temps i recorded are a little high to my liking. As for now the alt is a big problem as i have a bosch alt w/ lifetime warranty at autozone. Turns out they dropped the bosch line and only carry Duralast now. Which is a much cheaper brand, so now i have a 300$ valued alt they want to trade a 200$ alt for. I'm looking into maybe chaning from the 95 Maxima alt to a single wire GM or such. I'll post more in this thead when i get the new alt installed. -Ed

I as well have a Ron Davis radiator, one of the "DRAG SERIES" that i custom fit in the Z. I've had it for 2 years aprox with no leaking issues. I mounted mine by making little supports that bolt to the core support, the radiator actually just slides into them and sits there.. they have plastic sheeting on them to protect the AL from gauging. And then the top gets siliconed on, along with all along the edges. I would assume the silicone allows it to flex enough, but i have not had any problems. -Ed

lol yes, they are a puller setup, and no I haven't had a chance to test with 50/50 ratio as my alt blew yesterday (tuesday) so i don't have the new one in yet. -Ed