Nismo280zEd

its all good... just don't close the thread.. i find it kind of interesting. I still don't understand how a metal box would protect the MS.... if the EMP is powerful enough to go therough the entire car before getting to the "box" then i think it's kinda hopeless... also... as mentioned the car is riding on rubber... there is no way to transfer the energy into the ground, it would stay in the chassis unless you developed some sort of energy obsortion object... maybe you could run the ground to a capacitor? then the capacitor stores the surged energy? I don't know. -Ed

crazy story... but awesome idea for coax. I have a ton of coax cable lying around... i didn't even think about using that.

did some investigating today... traced continuity from the neg of the coil to the MS... I have run with one wire from the neg of the coil... then it gets to about passenger side and i split it into two, one lead goes to ms, one lead goes to factory ignition box (transister ignition unit). Everything traced out, so i check the db37 connector... found a ground had broken off of it's solder... re did that, tried to start.. no luck. Tested the coil to see if it has elec. 10.4V while cranking. checked the cap and rotor on dizzy, cleaned the contact on the rotor, no luck. I think i'm going to have to take the MS apart. Might be a cracked solder... on the board.

I don't know about worrying about protecting from EMP. I mean... you woudln't be the only one without a running car if it did fry your MS. Not to mention surrounding industries would be down, electricity... etc. I'm not seeing how a metal box would protect it... maybe something more along the lines of an absorbtion material. I know copper is used to block signals... maybe a copper mesh around it... what about the anti static bags you get new computer components in? or... the things you used to put your camera in at the airport to protect the film from the X-ray machine? Just a plain old metal box I don't see how that protects it anymore than the AL box the MS is mounted in. I think playing with some of these other materials would be better. If you can find a way to test it... and perfect your "shield" you might even be able to sell your product to the government. Seeing as how the military is going more high tech... they will definatly need a good way to protect their high end electronics. Just a thought... good luck with it. I"m curious to see what you come up with.

anybody selling just 2 swasticas? I'm a broke college student... cheaper is better. I only need 2 unless the price is right for 4

wow... total wheel envy.

my setup details are probably burried in the MS thread by now lol. PCB 3.0 MSnSE 021 code triggering off the "-" of the coil. RPMs steady when cranking.. I don't get a signal light on the box when cranking and yes.. the LED is fully functioning. my VE tables are posted under MAPS in the sticky.

My R200 is on it's way out too from a cammed l28 n/a motor. It has about 1" of verticle play causing me to destroy halfshafts like no other. (not play in the mounting.. play in the actually diff)

These are my settings... N/A fuel only. Nismo cam (spec unknown) 6-2-1 header 2.5 exhaust port and polish intake schnider valve springs Stock Z injector 38 psi on the rail 021 code with megatune 2.25 email me for msq as i can't host it right now. edhenkel@gmail.com that was my last revision before i blew the ring (oil issue not the tune) this plot worked pretty good until my cam started to kick in... then it would die on its face. These are very rough... but i've had alot of request for them. I never got them perfected and i never tuned with an 02. I'm sure the maps are rich judging by my fuel gauge. -Ed

did i miss the write up? ... what did you foam? I'm kinda confused here...

let me know how that works... I got tired of mine too... but just took all that Sh*t out instead of what your doing... figured i could use a system from a newer car and have it work better.

Woah... that's one way to do it. I'm curious about the weight when it's all said and done. Wicked project... good luck!

I'd been having some problems with my MS picking up the tach signal and they slowly got worse... The Z has been sitting for about 2 months or so as I've been driving my S14 around town. Went to start the Z today after adding some gas (money is tight) and no pickup to the MS at all. I had this problem before but solved it by unbolting the connection on the neg of the coild and puting it back on. So with more research... I saw that DIY uses shielded wires for the input wire to the MS. Do you guys run shielded wires? could this be the culprit or do i need to pull the box and check for solder cracks? -Ed

I thought about doing this before to the Z as a joke to piss off all the SUV drivers on the road.

I've had the MSA "big bore" TB on my car before the fire.... when my father and i installed that at the time.. we "smoothed" out the entrance into the manifold. When i redid it over Christmas time... I used a 240sx 60mm tb with no spacer, I had to bore the HELL out of it. There was a TON of metal removed from that. There is a big difference in throttle response from Boring it out and just smoothing the entrance. Definatly work the time to take it off. -Ed

because alot of people here don't want the same thing. This allows whatever you want with minimal price... I don't know about you but my pockets arn't deep enough to go buy a complete kit from Ross otherwise I would have done so. If i had the 200 I'd buy a set in a heartbeat guys... I should have some spare change next summer

that clip is still in wrong.. and honestly it doesn't even look like a factory clip, it looks like a bent piece of sheet metal with a slot cut in. Factory clips have two bent "prongs" that go around the cable. The idea is... with the tab facing AWAY from the bracket.. you slide the clip in... this is not easy to do.. the prongs on the tab are bent in the center so that when you slide the clip in... they compress acting like springs holding the cable in. You'll have to use some pliers or like taping of a mallet to get the clip in... should not just "slide" in.

anybody know anything about ka24de cams? PM me

yeah, problem is most guys just do trubo kits or sr20 swaps. I'm determined to do an N/A build... I must be just mental. Thanks though, atleast you replied.

i liked how the windshield wipers went with the beat for a while... Nice

Who every has the copyright to the logo please PM me. Or whoever is in charge of letting the logo be used on various car appareal let me know. -Ed

Well... it looks like i'm having to do what i was trying not to do. I'm picking up a second job on my days off at the hospital. going back to bartending and waiting tables at night for the next 6-7 months. I appreciate the help guys. Job market is killer for somebody like me right now. GEEZ yes, I love to work on cars in my spare time. what did you have in mind?

Ok granted, I did post this in the L6 forum and it's not for an L6 its for an L4. I have a 95 S14 (240sx) that uses the KA24DE engine. Basically a 4 cylinder z motor with dual cams. I'm having trouble selectiong the right cam for it. The motor is gonna be built for mid to top end power, more than likely extensive head work. Larger valves, differents seats, mild port and polish to go with it. I'm used to looking at Z cams and that's honestly the only cams i've dealt with hands on. The Z has high lift cams .400-.500 with 260 duration no problem. Do SOHC engines usually have higher lift cams to get everything to move? The S14, DOHC a race spec cam was listed as .401/272 this seems almost mild to me looking a Z cams. The one they list as a street/strip cam is .374/262 I'm relatively new to this car, but i figured somebody on here could guide me in the right direction on HOW to choose the cam i want for this motor. I've done CFM formulas and VE stuff and figured out all the air and all that good stuff, but it still doesn't help me figure out how much lift i need. I did a search on here but only brough up schnieder cams, and some installs and V8 stuff, nothing about really how to choose one. If anybody body could show me the way I'd be greatly appreciative. Thank you, -Ed