Nismo280zEd

thanks for the post of the maps olie just got it idling now. -Ed

Yeah i neglected to mention i'm actually running MSnS-E fuel only. Once i get that working i'll do the VR pickups for my dizzy. I've setup my table from 50-100 increasing in 5 (kPa) rpm on the bottom starts at 600 and increases 500 each block, this way when i condense it down when i run spark it will be easy to do. VE Table EDIT= I should mentions all the below is after it goes through the warmup sequence and reached above 160deg. I'm having trouble dialing it in still. when it's about 70-80 kPa after startup it doens't like it to much. I have those about 53-almost 60. I think i'm going to lock my dizzy and take the vacumn advance off for now. When engine speed pickups kPa drops to say 50-60s rpms is about 1000-1200 and my numbers are about 60-mid 60's. I have a single wire o2 sensor and it hasn't warmed up enough to give me rich or lean readings so i'm going by smell and it stills smells rich to me but any lower and the engine cuts and stumbles. I'm also using the bosch idle air valve for idle control. I'm at work now cooking but when i get home I plan to crunch some numbers and figure out where the numbers should be. -Ed

Any of you guyz help me out here? Jkube I think your running MS on an N/A there don't appear to be any maps for us loners. I've been messing with it and can barely improve the idle, still idles at like 500rpm and is very stumbly, if not a map, atleast can anybody guide me in the direction of what to tune for the idle settings? I've been playing with the VE map and the constants. -Ed

as long as you have a clean signal from the dizzy it should work fine.

no, actually the gauge was sending a pulsing signal through the wire, I clipped the wire going to the gauge works fine now. Have a steady signal of .4V well atleast it works fine with the voltmeter, have yet to see if megatune likes it. -Ed

get the pcb 3.0 board It has VR pickups as well as can run the CAS/Hall optical sensors. I can run spark and timing on my car with my stock dizzy. -Ed let me know if ya need help getn' the bastard to run. I've just about worked out all the headaches with mine.

fixed

that was my understanding but just wanted to verify. -Ed

How many guys are using the stock bi-metallic bosch idle air valve? Does MS V3.0 need to control the power wire for this?

what happened to microtech?

It has a new ground, I'll run the new reading wire tomorrow and check it with my girls laptop after work. Until then any other ideas?

Currently have pcb3.0 board with MS1 on it. It's not liking the input from the sensor for some reason. I was using the stock 280z sensor trying to use easytherm to tune it but the software was giving me problems. when I'm in megatune and go under realtime display. the voltage to my o2 sensor is constantly going from 0-3 up and down the scale, my clt sensor goes from nothing to 255 then back to nothing, bouncing around. So i switched to the GM sensor today nothing, same problem. This is causing a small nightmare, this is my daily driver and my g/f is having to drive me everywhere. Browsing through msefi i couldn't really find stuff on trouble shooting MSI on the 3.0 board with the coolant sensor. Then only thing i can think of is when i wired it, i taped the wire going to the z sensor (single wire) that wire gives input to the temp gauge. I spliced into that, maybe the gauge is sending off some funky signal? I should also mention i'm using a single wire 02 sensor untill my paycheck thursday. Also megatune and easytherm are telling me they can't find the right msI .ini file. And I can't seem to find it either, a little help would go a long way. Thank you -Ed

Mike, what are you running MS on?

thanx but i already went back and viewed through the megasquirt forums. The V3 can run of the VR sensor in my dizzy and i can use the high current coil driver to run spark if i wanted. -Ed

this is what i was getting at all along. I read online it can run off of VR signal which is what the stock 280 dizzys had. That's all i Needed to know. -Ed

Yes a 280z is stock fuel injection. Most people on this forum know how my car caught fire a couple years back and I've been running webers ever since. Yeah, I guess if you had the money to do the webers right you wouldn't have a problem, however texas heat and humidity combined with expensive parts have caused me a small nightmare. Yes the webers do run pig rich that is why they only get about 10mpg. Fixing this problem would in no way benefit me with fuel injection. I'm not quite sure where you were going with that one. I have a JSK fuel log, shaved N47 head ported and polished Non egr manifold ported and polished, 240sx TB with sensor, cable conversion. Running stock spec injectors till i get everything running then I might switch to zx turbo injectors. I have a nissan race cam giving me power from 3k on. Fuel lines are converted over to 3/8" SS hard line with AN fittings and flex connectors. Well I think this gives you a good enough picture of what i'm doing. It's a full fuel injection build up preparing me for a turbo later on down the road. This is why I bought the V3 board for MS as well. My question may seem strange and odd but all i simply ask for are answers. I'm going to school for an EE degree and this has been a very fun project thus far. Right now I only plan to run the MS with fuel control, then since i was a previous computer science major, I'm going to re program the code to my liking since i know the language. I'm also going to have it control my cooling fans, possibly even fuel pump. I asked about the distributor out of pure curiousity. The last couple posts were very usefull and I fully understood what they were talking about. Once I get the z running fine with fuel I'm going to play around with ignition control from it. It's only a matter of time before the ignition module goes out on the Z. -Ed

I'm having to refrain myself from posting some really nasty comments. Please read the above post i made and use some common sense. You are posting in a technical forum. I asked if it could be done, not your personal opinion. If i cared about what others thought, I wouldn't have my Z. -Ed

Yes it may not be necessary to control the spark with the MS if I'm not going turbo however, I'm not doing this mod for the power gain. Triple carbs are getting about 10mpg right now and i'm sick and tired of tunning them every weekend. My main goal here is to regain the power i had with the stock FI but to better use the fuel producing a higher mpg. This is the reason I was asking about controling advance with the MS on the stock dizzy. I'm a college student, I don't have alot of money, but i have hands and a vast mechanical knowledge. Modifying the dizzy is not a problem but trying to find a cheap CAS dizzy from a turbo car is just about impossible as they are highly sought after on here. Thank you for the useful advide on what i need to do to the dizzy. -Ed

For some reason I was under the impression I had to convert my dizzy to use CAS in order for the MS to drive the ignition. 78 280z. After reading a lil bit the MS says that it can control ignition event with a points dizzy. Any body using the stock Z dizzy and running ign control? -Ed

unfotunatly I do not have the 50 dollars to spend for a stimulator or the 25-30 in parts to build it. I'm a broke college student working at a hospital trying to make ends meet good sir. Thus is why i'm building the MS myself and the quicker i get it installed and reprogram it the more i start saving on gas. I spend about 60-70 in gas every 10 days. Plus this has to be finished before school starts again in early to mid january. Thank you for the help, I completly overlooked the huge red line coming from the battery. -Ed

Fellas that's why man created Standalone systems. And my stock EFI ran great until it caught fire about 3 years back now. (no it wasn't electrical fire either) -Ed

so incase anybody else ever has this problem on here. It's pin 28. 12 volt input -Ed

Could you do me a big favor? What pin or pins do i supply a 9-12v power to? I've seen the standard schematic on megasquirt site and it does not clearly indicate the power supply, this would be very useful for when I actually wire it into the car as well lol. Thanks alot, I feel really quite small right now with such an obvious question. Thank you again. -Ed

ok it's not pins 2*3 it's pins 3&4 also pin 8 have about 2.35v on them. I'm starting to wonder if I need 12+ to the #37 pin on the other connector to power the board? -Ed

Yes I installed U6 and checked voltages on it last night trying to figure out whats up. Do I need the power supplied on the DB37 connection for the board to test out properly? I'll check the bios I'm going to try my friends computer and make sur its not mine. Should the voltage from pin 2&3 be that low though? Because that's the only power going into my board and from my understand not enough to overcome the diode. -Ed