Nismo280zEd

I was under the impression that head studs shouldn't be used more than twice if that as when you torque them they pull, so re-using them puts them at risk for snapping. Did I remember this correctly? If so where can i find a set that isn't ARP I don't have 100$ bucks to spend on them. -Ed

Mines doing somethins similar mike. I'm gonna try running the MS power direct to the battery with an inline fuse on it cause i'm getn' between .5-1 volt drop between the battery and the MS

Well it seems like I just can't catch a break lately. Got the Z running really sweet on MSnSE only to be followed by some sort oil problem. To make a long story short, new piston rings are in order. #5 is reading 35lbs of compression. No good. Doesn't appear to be a valve either but there is still hope. -Ed

sounds just about identical to my engine setup. Except i don't have the expensive ARP stuff and i run a trubo f54 block with 280 internals. -Ed

I think he was more implying that improper installation of safety equipment can be more dangerous than the stock lap belts. Harnesses can be deadly if not installed properly, but that goes for most things on a car.

I think arizona Z has some too don't they? -Ed

you mentioned you installed an external regulator with a diode, was this inline from the alternator to the battery? If so your prolly still geting pulses through the electronics. I had a similar problem also had to ground my alternator to a different spot on the car body, then run a ground to the battery. Had to install another regulator just for MS power, pretty retarded but hey it fixed the problem. Also recently my MS was powering down exactly like yours. I traced it back to a cracked solder connection on the DB 25 connection on the ECU I guess it would flex under high load in the car, extreme corners accel, decel etc. Would make the temp sensor read -40 and throw off the TPS signal in a way that when i gave it gas, the temp would increase and the tps would decrease, and visa versa. Really screwy huh? -Ed

wow, that looks expensive. -Ed

They still make the kit, but it's HARD to get. I'm curious if they used the stock 240 turn signals or not. I think I'd like to try to create that front air dam as a spare project. -Ed

if you bought a 2.2 board you more than likely do not have a flyback board. The 3.0 has it built on, the 2.2 require it as a sisterboard to run the injectors. Also if you ordered your board from DIY, they probably soldered both circuits onto the board, hall & points. One takes an optical or VR sensor, the other takes the signal from the negative of the coil. However if you have a 2.2 board i don't think you have VR capability that is 3.0 board feature. None the less, there is a jumper that you install to switch from hall or points. Hope that doesn't confuse you, -Ed

you should probably consult RacerX about that as he told me about the product, however after 2 years I'm having some problems with it. The product was supposed to remain non-porous. Now it is absorbing moisture and oil. But then again I've had it with a topcoating for two years so as long as you topcoat it you should be fine. EDIT your picuters look pretty good, if you leave that factory paint, make sure it is clean and scuffed well. -Ed

I don't think it's related I could be wrong - Ed --wow.. the letters are getting blurry

I think that setup is more commonly run on 280s to increase the compression. -Ed

Yeah, I understand completly.

that would be my guess as well

so true, plan out your wiring first, it'll make life alot easier. -Ed

I think yall are confused, the Omni paint i've used by PPG is still a two stage system base/bear. Just the baseline economy paint, like mentioned it's not as durable, however a few more bucks will last twice as long. -Ed

Wow mike, we done good boy, we done good.

my stock Z sender was always inaccurate, and i was going to solve the impedence problem from the gauge by installing a diode in the line to the gauge, that way it could read, but not send anything into the line, I figured that would work. Yes I did post this in the MSEFI forums under sensor and wiring. Nobody has responded yet. Not sure if your post was sarcastic or not Mario. -Ed

I think most streetable engines around aroun 200-250hp NA I'm hoping to put down 210-220 with my NA setup and as mentioned it takes ALOT of money. I'm now running MSnSE fuel log, 60mm tb, custom intake, ported and polished and shaved N47 head (would love an N42) with a race cam from Japan, stiffer valve springs to prevent valve float, also standard 6-2-1 header 2 1/2" exhaust. Also I need to go to zx injectors as NA injectors approach very high duty loads around 3k and up. When i get some money and more tunning i wanna get it dynoed. till then, broke college student -Ed

Do you eat organic food? Do you eat any produce that comes from mexico? Do you use roach spray? Do use chemicals to keep away insects? Have you used OFF bug spray before? Ever been around a salon? Ever been around a girl taking off her fingernail polish? All of those hurt you. I don't know about you, but my a/c system doesn't pull air from my garage to circulate in the house. Your not spraying the walls. Your spraying a car, Anything else in the garage should be covered. I think your seeing this to a slight extreme. EDIT Alright, anyways I've painted cars in my garage and out of my garage. When I painted mike's car on the board (on3go) I used 3 box fans from lowes, one in the back of the garage blowing air away from the house, then the other two on the sides of the garage opening, I lowered the garage to where it was closed to the top of the box fan, so aprox 3' from the bottom. This is very effective and cheap to paint this way, there is enough air moving in and out you don't have to worry about igniting paint fumes. Just make sure the fans are already running when you start spraying. Also if you wet the ground before you spray it'll help. I use a mask similar to what fire fighters wear, has face and mouth protection straps over my head and uses two filters. Another thing to think about if your painting inside a garage is lighting, the overspray makes it darker when you spray. -Ed EDIT I forgot to mention, I spray only with HVLP guns, the overspray is SIGNIFICANTLY less, and uses less paint and obviously lower pressure, I would recomend using HVLP guns.

Yeah but pretty much all sensors are npt threads, the Z thermostat housing is not, so you either have to re-dril and tap the housing, or re-thread the sensor. Either way you still have another sensor sticking out of the thermostat housing and another unecessary wire.

that explains it.. rebuilt my mom's maxima, no wonder they looked familar she has a 90GXE and a 93 SE

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